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Mountain rifle - build or buy?

Check out the
Christensen Arms Mesa (Light) 28 Nosler Bolt-Action Rifle with 26-Inch Barrel. They can be found for under 1200 dollars if you look around. Weigh less than 7lb.
 
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I would just build one. Personally I would want a short action 700 with an extended mag box. I would either go with a blind magazine and aluminum trigger guard or aluminum bottom medal. I would go with an aluminum bolt shroud, fluted bolt body, and skeletonized bolt handle. For the barrel I would do something in the 21"-23" range and a light contour with a muzzle diameter around 0.600, or .650 and have it fluted. I'm not a fan of carbon fiber barrels, that's just my opinion. For the stock I would get one of the Stocky's carbon fiber stocks. They are under $600 and weigh around 1.5lbs. Rings would be Tally and the scope would be a Leupold VX-3i 4.5-14x40 which comes in just under 1lb. Total rifle weight would be right at 7lbs.

Cartridge choice depends on what you would want to hunt, but I would lean towards a 6.5 PRC or something around those lines that packs a punch and has a COAL under 3" with a heavy, high BC, bullet.
 
I currently have an mrc x2 with a 4-18 lrtsi scope in a 7 rem mag. I haven't weighed the gun but I would guess 10lbs +\-. It feels a bit heavy for packing up a mountain. Gun shoots well. Under 3/4" with factory 162 eldx. I am contemplating selling the gun and buying a lighter one or starting to change parts on this one to lighten it up. I like the scope so I am just looking at the rifle. I know that mrc action is on the heavy side. Am I better off going a whole new direction (new gun) or throwing new parts at this one. Parts would likely include a McMillan stock, lighter barrel, and maybe different bottom metal. Not looking for a five pound rifle but I would like to shave a couple of pounds off my current setup.

I used to build on Remington 700's - and had outstanding accuracy lowered weight factors, and spent money. Then I got introduced to Tikka's and never looked back. Handloads give me 1/2 MOA easy and very nice rifles. I was skeptical till I bought one and just laughed. I wasted a lot of time and money building when I just could have been shooting. You invest too much money in a rifle build and it can become more a work of art than use.

My recommendation is this:
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Tikka T3X SuperLite Bolt-Action Stainless Rifle
$880

7mm Rem Mag. 6 lbs

If you are not shooting too far - 270 Win instead with 150gr Hornady Interbonds.
Why? Less recoil. IMR 7977 can put it 2950fps or just under a Win Mag velocity at 100% case fill, temp insensitive powder.

Limbsaver replacement pad on butt of rifle. $50

https://www.cabelas.com/product/TIKKA-T-X-OCTANE-SUPERLITE-BOLT-ACTION-RIFLE/2903943.uts?slotId=0

Alternative for less = black stock for $750 in stainless. You can always texture the stock yourself with a sponge and paint / matte clear coat it a few times - $15

https://www.cabelas.com/product/sho...sh-stainless-steel-black/2313225.uts?slotId=4

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I know this will way of base for the custom crowd that I am gladly a member of. I purchased a Ruger American Predator in 6.5 creed for my son, played with the trigger, and remounted the action. It is lite weight and shoots 1/2 all day long with factory Hornady 120's. I grab it first if I get a chance to run out for the day.
 
If you can afford it, I'd build! However as already pointed out there are a number of lightweight rifles on the market right now. I built mine, (.257 Ackley Improved) so I have the experience of building. If you build, every ounce counts -- a few ounces here and a few there add up to an extra pound or two at the end. You can research what each individual part weighs -- including the scope mounts and even the sling you use! Also take a look at the total weight of your ammo -- which might make you decide to go for a different caliber -- which is why I went with the .257!
 
I would even suggest a new 6.5 Creed $500 - Ruger American as a Troupe said.
(Basically a short action 270 Win with better BC)

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It is Cerakote Bronze finish - new better AI-Style magazine in a 6.5 lb rifle.

It can be abused without regret for the price of a custom rifle barrel alone.
The front stock area might need re-enforced. That would be about it. Optics - spend that money on good glass that weighs about 1 lb. = total weight 7.5 lbs for a Sub-MOA rifle workhorse.


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https://ruger.com/products/americanRifleGoWild/specSheets/26925.html
 
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Steyr Scout? I went that route until wife used it once... I loved that rifle. I got tired of getting dicked around by my "smith/scammer" on a 280 AI build and bought a Scout in 7mm-08. Amazing rifle with features surpassed by none.
 
I would just get a tikka. I've never seen the appeal for spending thousands on a super light rifle. Light rifles are just not as easy to shoot long range, especially in big magnums. But maybe that's just me. You could also upgrade the tikka later if you wanted to customize. I don't have any custom builds with anything lighter than a 3b/5 contour. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
This is a great point. I built a semi-custom Savage that is sub 8lbs w/o scope. It will shoot, but is very finicky comparatively. You must learn how to manage the recoil to keep it accurate.
 
I like the tikka superlite but for $500 with rebate the Savage lightweight Hunter at 5.5 lbs in 308 topped with a fixed power Leupold is light like a toy and great medicine to 400. My nice custom guns are heavy .
 
For the money a guy can't go wrong with a Savage. I have 3 savage rifles and they are all very accurate. I have a friend who has at least 3 savages as well and neither of us has had the first problem with any of them. One of my savage rifles is a heavy barrel 308 and very accurate. Dicks sells them and they don't cost a lot. Only negative is the model I have is heavy which isn't a problem for how I hunt deer but I wouldn't want to take it on a hunt where I have to pack in several miles. As most know a heavy rifle helps a lot to reduce recoil and I feel it adds a element of accuracy from the weight as well.
 
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