Military crimp removal methods

[VenatusDominus]

I have both the RCBS and the Dillion. The Dillion is hands down faster and easier. There is a rubber band or spring hack for it on YouTube that automatically throws the case off. Does both large and small primer pockets for rifle snd pistol.

 

[APDDSN0864]

Get a Dillon. You won't be disappointed.

Ed

 

[mtbullet1]

dillon works much better

 

[jeb405]

I have the RCBS swage die, previously had Dillon dedicated tool and now use Wilson Case Trimmer primer pocket cutting tool. I do not use it on the case trimmer, I use it as a hand tool. I find the material removal to be more consistent than results from either of the swaging methods.

JB

 

[thomasbangs]

I've used the deburring tool for years to remove the crimp on 30-06 and. 223 military brass. I started using the regular Wilson deburring tool in a chuck that fit in quarter inch drill, I now use the pointed end of the deburring tool that is on the RCBS case prepping station. I've done thousands of both .223 and 30-06 with these two tools with no problems.

 

[Petey308]

I've used pretty much every method, as I process a ton of 5.55 brass to 223. I've found the style of crimp factors in too. The 4 stakes style seems to do better with swaging, and the ring style seems to do better with cutting. As in those methods work best for those styles.

I have a Dillon Super Swage 600, I've had an RCBS setup, etc, and I've tried all kinds of other things to include the press-mounted setups on a progressive.

The biggest issues I've had with the primer pocket reamers is that they dull very quickly and start doing a terrible job and require a lot more pressure to get the actual crimp cut out. If someone would make a carbide reamer, I think it might be just the ticket.

The actual best and most consistent method I've found, that requires the least effort and leaves the best result, has been using just a regular non-VLD chamfer tool chucked into a drill. I quick little zip to apply a slight bevel to the pocket is all that's needed. It removes the crimp and the bevel also allows for smooth locating and centering of the new primer, especially if priming progressively.

My Dillon just sits now and never gets used, which is sad, but I'm not going to keep using it when it doesn't give the best result. The biggest issue I've had with it is that while it does remove the crimp, the material around the opening of the pocket is still built up to the point the new primers have issues locating and centering properly and tend to get hung up every so often. It's very frustrating. I just don't have that issue with applying a bevel.

The only issue I have with the chamfer tool is it's obviously not completely consistent. It doesn't have the ability to bottom out, so you have to know when to stop. I'm not sure if it has any negative influence on anything, but it bugs me nonetheless lol. I've used a VLD chamfer tool, and it will indeed bottom out, but I've had issues with it not quite cutting enough material out and then the new primer doesn't always want to go in.

So until someone makes and sells a carbide primer pocket reamer, the regular chamfer tool will continue to be my method of choice.

Sorry for such a long drawn out reply

 

[bamban]

I've used pretty much every method, as I process a ton of 5.55 brass to 223. I've found the style of crimp factors in too. The 4 stakes style seems to do better with swaging, and the ring style seems to do better with cutting. As in those methods work best for those styles.

I have a Dillon Super Swage 600, I've had an RCBS setup, etc, and I've tried all kinds of other things to include the press-mounted setups on a progressive.

The biggest issues I've had with the primer pocket reamers is that they dull very quickly and start doing a terrible job and require a lot more pressure to get the actual crimp cut out. If someone would make a carbide reamer, I think it might be just the ticket.

The actual best and most consistent method I've found, that requires the least effort and leaves the best result, has been using just a regular non-VLD chamfer tool chucked into a drill. I quick little zip to apply a slight bevel to the pocket is all that's needed. It removes the crimp and the bevel also allows for smooth locating and centering of the new primer, especially if priming progressively.

My Dillon just sits now and never gets used, which is sad, but I'm not going to keep using it when it doesn't give the best result. The biggest issue I've had with it is that while it does remove the crimp, the material around the opening of the pocket is still built up to the point the new primers have issues locating and centering properly and tend to get hung up every so often. It's very frustrating. I just don't have that issue with applying a bevel.

The only issue I have with the chamfer tool is it's obviously not completely consistent. It doesn't have the ability to bottom out, so you have to know when to stop. I'm not sure if it has any negative influence on anything, but it bugs me nonetheless lol. I've used a VLD chamfer tool, and it will indeed bottom out, but I've had issues with it not quite cutting enough material out and then the new primer doesn't always want to go in.

So until someone makes and sells a carbide primer pocket reamer, the regular chamfer tool will continue to be my method of choice.

Sorry for such a long drawn out reply

On the next batch of barrels I send out to be melonited, I'll let you know. If you are interested you can send me new non vld chamfer tools and I'll add them with my barrels. The place I send the barrels for the juniors, their core business is in the oil industry not guns. They melonite drilling components.

For now, if you wish PM me your address I will send you a cutoff Wylde chamber that you can use in your drill press to hold the case. I will leave enough case stick out that you can hold on to.

Clamp the jig down in your vise squared up, align it to the quill. Set the quill stop for the amount of chamfer you want on your brass. If your brass are all sized properly, the depth of cut should be fairly close from one to the next as the sized cases will bottom out on the chamber shoulder.

FYI, All my mandrels, bushings, sizing dies are melonited. Next best thing to carbide.

For all your services to the forum, to get all stuff you want melonited, N/C to you including return shipping.

Just a thought.

 

[Petey308]

On the next batch of barrels I send out to be melonited, I'll let you know. If you are interested you can send me new non vld chamfer tools and I'll add them with my barrels. The place I send the barrels for the juniors, their core business is in the oil industry not guns. They melonite drilling components.

For now, if you wish PM me your address I will send you a cutoff Wylde chamber that you can use in your drill press to hold the case. I will leave enough case stick out that you can hold on to.

Clamp the jig down in your vise squared up, align it to the quill. Set the quill stop for the amount of chamfer you want on your brass. If your brass are all sized properly, the depth of cut should be fairly close from one to the next as the sized cases will bottom out on the chamber shoulder.

FYI, All my mandrels, bushings, sizing dies are melonited. Next best thing to carbide.

For all your services to the forum, to get all stuff you want melonited, N/C to you including return shipping.

Just a thought.

That's some great ideas and I will have to take you up on that to at least try it out. Thank you!

 

[lyle2231]

Been using a cut out style tool for cutting out the mil crimp on mil brass for a while now. Tried a RCBS swage removal die today. I'm a bit surprised at the effort required to push/pop the press handle to release the cases when done. (On the upstroke). My process is working, but its wearing out my arm and beating up my bench and press. I have 1500 new unfired LC 7.62x51 cases to do. My question is this, do you guys know of any other manufacturers of on press swage removal dies that I might try?

Dillon makes a Crimp removal tool. HTH

 

[lyle2231]

I'll check. Thanks!

RCBS Brass Prep Center, motorized and you screw the crimp cutter into one of the stations

 

[arch408]

I used the RCBS until I bought the Dillon pocket swager. Dillon is much better. Luckily, I was able to sell my RCBS swager. I need to look up the You Tube rubber band hack to remove the case.

 

[bamban]

That's some great ideas and I will have to take you up on that to at least try it out. Thank you!

I gave away the cutoff Wylde. Here is one you can have. Chamber is Wylde derivative, zero freebore, something not pertinent to what you want yo do.

I gave you enough case stick out, hope that's enough for you to grip. Related application I use similar set up, when I get energetic to uniform pockets. Sideways on the lathe, cutter in chuck, present the pocket to it and push the other side with the center in the tailstock. You can use this jig to accomplish the same in vertical mode cutter in the drill chuck, quill stop to set depth.

Align set up real well, should serve you well.

 

[Petey308]

I gave away the cutoff Wylde. Here is one you can have. Chamber is Wylde derivative, zero freebore, something not pertinent to what you want yo do.

I gave you enough case stick out, hope that's enough for you to grip. Related application I use similar set up, when I get energetic to uniform pockets. Sideways on the lathe, cutter in chuck, present the pocket to it and push the other side with the center in the tailstock. You can use this jig to accomplish the same in vertical mode cutter in the drill chuck, quill stop to set depth.

Align set up real well, should serve you well.

View attachment 400269View attachment 400270

You're awesome! Can't thank you enough.

It might not be the fastest way to run through several thousand, but it'll help out with my current process, I'm pretty sure. It should work well until there's a better way lol. Thanks again. I greatly appreciate it.

 

[bamban]

You're awesome! Can't think you enough.

It might not be the fastest way to run through several thousand, but it'll help out with my current process, I'm pretty sure. It should work well until there's a better way lol. Thanks again. I greatly appreciate it.

My pleasure.