dennisinaz
Well-Known Member
You have you dies nitrided?
Military crimp removal methods
- Thread starter C-130 Dude
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Hi!
Thanks a bunch for the offer. I already have one. Really thankful for the offer. Take care and have a great hunting season!
OK,
dennisinaz
Well-Known Member
I'll have to try that. I figured it would negatively affect the surface finish
Thats a good idea!
hunter0528
Well-Known Member
The Dillon is the 600
Super Swager 600
Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case is supported from the inside, so you won't be tearing...
www.dillonprecision.com
Works great. I've done 45, 223, 308, and 30/06.
takes a little to adjust but beats the RCBS unit.
GDKinCO
Well-Known Member
I've been using the Dillon Super Swager 600 for almost a year and have pushed a couple thousand 5.56 crimped brass through it. The issue I'm finally attributing to this swager is I'm getting constant slivers of brass caught in the primer cup on my Dillon 750 press. I assume it's falling out of the primer pocket in the priming cycle.
I have a Lyman case prep station, and I'm going to run the next batch of 500 cases after the Dillon swager over to the primer pocket reamer and cleaner stations to see if I can eliminate the brass slivers.
Or, maybe I need to clean the brass after swaging, not before? I have the Franklin Arsenal wet tumber that I run without the pins after decapping but before any other prep steps.
I have a Lyman case prep station, and I'm going to run the next batch of 500 cases after the Dillon swager over to the primer pocket reamer and cleaner stations to see if I can eliminate the brass slivers.
Or, maybe I need to clean the brass after swaging, not before? I have the Franklin Arsenal wet tumber that I run without the pins after decapping but before any other prep steps.
Wanted to report back on my experience (so far) with the new Ba
Wanted to report back on my experience (so far) with the new Burstfireguns.com mil crimp removal tool I got a week ago. Its a cutting type tool you can chuck in a drill or a 8/32 spindle processing center. I have processed about 750 cases out of 1500 so far. It seems to stay sharp great. And cuts the crimp out efficiently and very easily. As compared to other cutting tools, it has a very steep cutting angle (80°). This works well as it doesn't remove too much brass which can cause primer loseness. I was concerned about the steep cutting angle affecting primer insertion ease. Didnt need to worry, it isn't an issue at all. I primered 200 cases and didn't have any issues at all. So I must consider this a good find. Condider...
My quest was to find a better mouse trap. Didn't like the many types I new of having tried most all of them. This is why I started looking in the first place. The new one I found does seem to be much more efficient and easy to use. That's where my quest ended. We'll see....
Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
this is what I do tooI've used pretty much every method, as I process a ton of 5.55 brass to 223. I've found the style of crimp factors in too. The 4 stakes style seems to do better with swaging, and the ring style seems to do better with cutting. As in those methods work best for those styles.
I have a Dillon Super Swage 600, I've had an RCBS setup, etc, and I've tried all kinds of other things to include the press-mounted setups on a progressive.
The biggest issues I've had with the primer pocket reamers is that they dull very quickly and start doing a terrible job and require a lot more pressure to get the actual crimp cut out. If someone would make a carbide reamer, I think it might be just the ticket.
The actual best and most consistent method I've found, that requires the least effort and leaves the best result, has been using just a regular non-VLD chamfer tool chucked into a drill. I quick little zip to apply a slight bevel to the pocket is all that's needed. It removes the crimp and the bevel also allows for smooth locating and centering of the new primer, especially if priming progressively.
My Dillon just sits now and never gets used, which is sad, but I'm not going to keep using it when it doesn't give the best result. The biggest issue I've had with it is that while it does remove the crimp, the material around the opening of the pocket is still built up to the point the new primers have issues locating and centering properly and tend to get hung up every so often. It's very frustrating. I just don't have that issue with applying a bevel.
The only issue I have with the chamfer tool is it's obviously not completely consistent. It doesn't have the ability to bottom out, so you have to know when to stop. I'm not sure if it has any negative influence on anything, but it bugs me nonetheless lol. I've used a VLD chamfer tool, and it will indeed bottom out, but I've had issues with it not quite cutting enough material out and then the new primer doesn't always want to go in.
So until someone makes and sells a carbide primer pocket reamer, the regular chamfer tool will continue to be my method of choice.
Sorry for such a long drawn out reply
