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"Match" Chamber?

In a match chamber you can specify the exact bullet you intend to shoot,
whether its a no turn neck chamber or not, the length of the free bore,
the type of rifling and twist rate, type of steel ... I prefer cut rifling as
opposed to button rifled. If you are looking for a top notch gunsmith
let me know. The barrel in my profile is a Bartlein made from 416R
stainless steel and cut 5R rifling. I can shoot 0.175 at 100 yards with it.

From some companies that may be the case, not here. I just emailed Criterion and they got right back to me. (speaks to their customer service) Here is a definitive response. This will not be a hindrance for hunting.

"Chris,
On our reamers, the "Match" designation generally refers to the length of the free bore and not a tighter chamber. The free bore on the "Match" reamers is longer to accommodate longer heavier bullets. Let me know if you have any other questions."

Sincerely,

Michael Ross
CBI
 
much tighter than a normal chamber ! In my match chamber .260 , I cant get the normal brass to fit and usualy have to neck turn the brass to fit the chamber .395


+1

"Match chambers" normally mean tight necks and short throats. Many believe that a sized case should only be .003 larger than a loaded round in the same chamber.

This philosophy is the minimum necessary dimension for neck expansion. In many cases it is problematic because you have brass that is different thicknesses and all cases need to be turned to make sure that you actually have .003 thousandths or pressure will rise because the case cant expand enough to release the bullet normally.

If you turn your necks to uniform them I recommend .004 thousandths as a minimum and if you don't turn your necks .004 to .005 is recommended. On dangerous game rifles I recommend .006 to .008 for chambering under stressful situations and dirty chambers mainly for safety reasons.

Like others, I have worked on many pre-chambered barrels and found the chambers to be poor at best and many of them were special reamers with dimensional problems. and two more that were chambered with a roughing reamer and the neck diameter was two tight and both had no freebore or lead cut in them. the owners could not even use the minimum load data without excessive pressure.

I have also set back pre-chambered barrels up to one full thread (.0625) before the chamber cleaned up and became concentric to the bore

Set up of the barrel before chambering is very important and time consuming.

I am fortunate that I can chamber my self, but others that cant, don't save any money unless they are very lucky and don't have the usual
problems. One time, (And Only one time) I was rushed and decided to build a rifle for my self and bought a short chambered barrel thinking I could save time. well that didn't work because after I did the set up on the barrel, i found that the maker was not so particular and the chamber was skewed off center to the bore, so I had to cur the barrel tenon completely off and hope I could save what was left of the original chamber. It never shot like it should and has since been replaced.

With the experiences that I have had with pre chambered or short chambered barrels, I won't use them at all. so everyone has to decide for themselves which way to go. some are lucky and many are not.

Just My Opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
Been looking at a barrel for my next build and I'm like the feed back I've seen from the members here who have bought Criterion Barrels from Southland Shooting Supply.

They list a number of barrels as having "Match" chambers. I'm very interested in another 6.5-06, but the chambering list, lists it as a Match chamber.

Not a lot of 6.5-06 brass out there, so I will go down the once fired road...AGAIN! And I hope not to hear the same BS I got from another barrel maker..."if you use once fired brass, you should expect to have problems!"

So what is a match chamber compared to a "normal" chamber?

I'm my experience it mean many things. Many of us build a dummy round with a specific bullet we intend to shoot and have a reamer made to that exact round. We spec jump, od, neck and the oa length and Clearances. As in .258 neck. .0025 OD and .0015 headspace/shoulder clearance. Not in those exact terms but to accomplish that end.


Most SAAMI Chambers are reamed at the max saami spec. Most factory brass is made to fit the min saami spec. Most FL size dies are made to resize fired brass to the min saami spec. This is great for hunting and to ensure that all ammo manufacturers products will fit in all firearms manufacturer's guns. This is not however a recipe for the most accurate rifle/ammo combo.

If you ever measured new brass and once fired brass after firing it in a saami chamber, the new brass can be .005"-.008" shorter and smaller in OD than it is once its fired. This is why many of us fire form our brass and buy neck only size dies and bump dies to set the headspace/shoulder clearence to .001"-.002". The trick is to have the brass match the chamber so well that it comes out almost the same as it went in. (No growth)

When you fire the gun the case exapands. It matches the chamber in every dimension. As it does, it physically locks up against the chamber walls reducing stress on the bolt lugs. When the pressure drops the case rebounds (shrinks) a couple thousandths.

When you then full lenght size the brass it returns the brass to its "new min saami spec unfired dimensions" which means that you reduce the size .004" to .008" It will then grow .004" in most dimensions or more with every firing. This excessive stretching and forced resizing causes too much case growth in firing and can shortens case life thru a process called work-hardening. If you bend metal back and forth it will eventually break. Every time you bend metal it loses its elasticity. It gets harder and harder. (brittle) The more a case is resized after firing the more work hardened it becomes and the less consistent neck tension will be. This will effect pressure, accuracy and increase velocity variations. Unless you anneal your brass it will crack and often seperate.

In a perfecf world the idea is to have a chamber that would be perhaps .002" over the min saami spec in both lenght and OD at the datum points. So I might buy lapua brass. Use the FL die I intend to use to full lenght size it. Then make a dummy round with the bullet I intend to shoot and send that round out to have a chamber reamer made to give me a couple thousandths clearance at all datum points. In effect I have a custom chamber and all my factory dies are now basically custom match dies that size to that custom chamber.

The chamber still falls within the overall SAAMI tolerances. It's just a tighter spec matching the chamber and dies. This is a recipe to get the most accuracy from a rifle. It is not a recipe for a hunting rifle as any dirt or even a fouled chamber can result in a jam.
I like Manson's standard reamers for hunting rifles. I've built some rifles with his stock reamers that shot 1/8" @100. He spilts the saami spec. I have never had a jam on any rifle and they all shoot providing your smith does his job.

The last part of a match chamber is the process. If match procedures and care are not used in the set up, turning, threading, chambering and assembly then it really doesn't matter what reamer you think you are getting cause you ain't.
 
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I absolutely love the 260 tac match reamer from pacific tool. It consistently prints groups at 100 yards in the high .1's, and low .2's with 139 gr scenars.
 
I had my 'smith chamber and installed a Hart #5.5 barrel on an R700 action. He warned me the reamer was tight, although he never mentioned the word "match" when we talked. He wasn't kidding. Probably 60% of the ammo I had loaded up for my R788 would not chamber and even some milsurp ammo I have (Portuguese) won't go. FL resizing generally helps but not always. I'm going to try a small base die, which I hope will work. A fair portion of my used brass is milsurp match and a good number of those won't even come close. FL sizing helps but some are just flat rejected by the chamber. So I'm currently separating my brass into "NuRem" & "788 only" batches. Kind of a pain but it sure shoots nice! This rifle is like many of my other firearms in that it's never even seen factory ammo (I just tried the mil-surp ammo for fit, haven't shot any of it). I might give some of the small primer brass a try, too. Brand new brass?! What a shocker!

All that said, once I get a round into the chamber it usually will fire form to the chamber and then just needs neck sizing. If the small base die works well, I might just have him put a new barrel on the 788, since it's got a lot of rounds down the pipe and has definitely seen better days!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
I absolutely love the 260 tac match reamer from pacific tool. It consistently prints groups at 100 yards in the high .1's, and low .2's with 139 gr scenars.

Wow! Never saw a chamber reamer that would do anything but cut chambers ...... How did you do that at 100? Rope & Pully or robotics? Too funny! Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Seriously, in my view, it's not so much the reamer as it is the Smith, the rifle (barrel, action, stock, trigger), the loads, and the shooter.

Buying the right reamer isn't much different than any other part of the equation. A rifle will only shoot as well as its weakest link - which is usually the shooter.

I expect what you really mean is that you love your Match 260 Tac, and you know how to shoot it. If so, my hats off to you and congrats on a sweet rifle.
 
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About 20 years ago when I was ordering a .300 Win mag rifle from HS Precision (built on my stainless Rem. 700 long action) I told them I want it chambered to "The absolute minimum SAAMI specs. Which they did, and then later used my request terminology in their website.

I guess, as mentioned earlier here, that meant using a slightly worn reamer. I would ask the same of Bartlein when I need a new barrel for my 6.5 CM Ruger Precision Rifle.

Eric B.
 
Usually tighter than saami, sometimes requires neck turning brass--- best to ask the person clambering it what the reamer specs are rather than assume though
Yep, all of my customs are match chambers, but the reamers were spec'd with SAAMI necks, that way you don't have to turn them. Works good for me.
 
I absolutely love the 260 tac match reamer from pacific tool. It consistently prints groups at 100 yards in the high .1's, and low .2's with 139 gr scenars.
Have two guns with that reamer. One panda and a Ruger Precision both with Bartlein 5Rs. Ruger 27". Panda 29". Both shoot .1"-.3" and hold that at distances.
Good Reamer. I shoot 140 Berger Hybrid Targets.
 
What you got from the other maker was not BS, once fired brass from an other chamber is one of the biggest wastes of money and accuracy I can think of!
Brass that fits your chamber so perfectly that it's just moving a couple thou and springing back after each fire and size cycle brings a level of consistency you will not achieve with brass that has formed to another chamber unless it's a smaller chamber really either by luck or actually building a fire forming barrel.

Match reamers means what ever they guy who spec'ed it thinks match is.
If you have a tight Sammi chamber and you buy brass out of a sloppy Sammi chamber your hooched, again!
I have only one Saami reamer, I really don't like them cause they are marginal for everything, that's the point, I use very specific reamers for specific reasons. IF I got it my pumpkin to use only once fired brass I'd have a reamer made based on what showed up for brass and what my sizer would do with it, more than likely add a little to the base and put the neck to .004 clearance and bring the throat down a little from most Sammi prints. I'd then headspace it a little longer so everything would be happy, happy but that'll never happen cause it's so much easier and cheaper to use new quality brass the first time.
I went down this road. Burnt out the really old 300 Weatherby and bought an Accumark. in 300 Weatherby. Thought I could neck size brass used in the old Weatherby for the Accumark. WRONG. Would not fit. Full length resized all the old brass and started over. Rifles from the same manufacture have different chamber dimensions. Not much different but enough not to mix the brass.
 
I absolutely love the 260 tac match reamer from pacific tool. It consistently prints groups at 100 yards in the high .1's, and low .2's with 139 gr scenars.

My own personal deer rifle (precision smithed by myself), was chambered with a PTG 260 no turn Match Reamer. After originally replying to your post, I found myself somewhat curious about what a 260 Tac was. I could not find a Reamer by that name on the PTG website. A google search also finds no such reamer. However, it seems lots of folks call the match 260 reamer the 260 Tac. Just wondering what it is that you call a 260 Tac?
 
My own personal deer rifle (precision smithed by myself), was chambered with a PTG 260 no turn Match Reamer. After originally replying to your post, I found myself somewhat curious about what a 260 Tac was. I could not find a Reamer by that name on the PTG website. A google search also finds no such reamer. However, it seems lots of folks call the match 260 reamer the 260 Tac. Just wondering what it is that you call a 260 Tac?


I speced their 260 match reamer. I think it gets refered to as the tac reamer because (at least my reamer) was throated exactly for 139/140/142 "tactical" type match bullets. Have two chambers with it and both will shoot same ammo/once fired or otherwise with same clearences and off-contact pretty much same way.

The chambers vary in lenght only about .0015". Both love Berger 140 target hybrids.
 
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