making my own pillars

The last time I bought some for my Smith I believe it was 20 feet. Had it delivered to him because he had run out and needed some to build my rifle that was in process.

G10 is very stable in with respect to the change in temperature and when accuracy is important the expansion rate of the pillar is a consideration. I know it is a fine point and gets it's application originally from glued in bench rest actions. Has to do with the heating and the heating of the action and its effect on the pillars during this process and the commesurate expansion against the action. Most Smiths do not understand the relationship however, my sporters are built to the same standards as my competition rifles --- they are just lighter for the most part, have the port on the right side and are repeaters LOL..

What is the compressive strength of this material?

I am interested also.

J E CUSTOM
 
dk, I couldn't make the link work. I still would like to check it out. Is it a non-metal or a low thermal coefficient metal alloy?

Thanks, Tom
 
dk, I couldn't make the link work. I still would like to check it out. Is it a non-metal or a low thermal coefficient metal alloy?

Thanks, Tom


This is from the link.

"Nema Grade G10 FR4 tubing is an electrical-grade epoxy resin system combined with a glass fabric substrate, cast to a specific size and either formed or ground down to the desired specifications. G10 FR4 tubes also offer excellent chemical resistance and electrical properties under dry and humid conditions. G10 FR Tubing also features high flexural, impact, superior mechanical strength and bond strength at temperatures up to 130°C. Applications include antenna masts, heat exchangers, coils and inducters. G10 fiberglass tubing is ideal for spcaers and stand offs. G 10 FR 4 tube also works well for bushings. G10 FR 4 Tubes are available in standard and custom sizes up to 6 " in diameter."


It looks to be an off white resin tube, available in a number of OD/ID configurations.

AJ
 
Thanks A.J.. It sounds like an excellent material for pillars. Appreciate the info. I'll check out the link.

Tom
 
Gentlemen----I have always found that when Speedy has vetted a process or product it is always suitable for the intended purpose furthermore it is the most desirable. Notice I did not say cheaper as I have found out!! LOL!!!!


If you would like I will request him to email me a few words about this and post it here.
 
Message from Speedy:

Personal message: tell the guy to use the G-10 it bonds better and is 5 times stronger than steel.
the 1/2 od x 1/4 id # 6394a15
McMaster-Carr
 
Only two of my rifles have that feature because all of my hunting and competition rifles are built the same way save those. If I were to have another one built by Speedy there would be no concern. The ones built with the ones with the aluminum blocks shoot fantastic.

That being said and as stated earlier when I build it is a joint effort with Speedy to make sure the rifle shoots lights out and at least IMHO looks better than the other guys. Not many people have skull bolt knobs on their competition rifles lol. My main competition rifle is a SG&Y (Manners) prototype solid carbon fiber stock with 14 coats of clear with HOK Kameleon® Pearl that makes it look several different colors depending on the light and angle viewed with very light black Punisher Skulls underneath.

Unless your Smith is very good and takes the time to install the pillars correctly the aluminum block may be the way to go. There are a lot of other things that must work together to make a rifle shoot accurately but for me at least the pillars are the way to go all things being equal.

Just my .02..
 
I have been pillar bedding Mausers and Mosin Nagants with 3/8" tubing made from stainless steel, brass, and 1010 steel.

The Stainless is too hard to machine.
The Brass is a dissimilar metal touching the receiver.
I like the 1010 tube:
MSC Item Detail

I have been roughing the sides of the pillar for traction in the epoxy per Wagner's site:
turkbed1
 
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