Looking for advice on a good electric sharpener

[Len Backus]

I prefer something that takes skill like a chainsaw file or a diamond whetstone but thats me.

I like and enjoy certain tasks that require skill but I have enough of those to challenge me already. But not sharpening knives.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I like and enjoy certain tasks that require skill but I have enough of those to challenge me already. But not sharpening knives.

I can relate but at our age, some things that take time like sharpening blades elicit a level of satisfaction for a job well done.

I tend to use my Havalon most of the time and toss the dull blades. Scapel sharp is hard to attain in the field.

On another note, I found a nice alternative to sharpening chainsaw loops in the field. I had one of these years ago and lost it. This new design is even better.....

www.timberlinesharpener.com

Uses a tungsten carbide burr similar to what a die makers uses on a rework die. Un like a hand file, the cutting angle remains constant as the tool aligns the burr at the correct angle on every tooth unlike a hand file where human error comes into play and its a cold cut unlike a grinding wheel so no chance of removing the temper in the steel.

 

[chas3stix]

+1 on Work sharp. I can sharpen everything from my kitchen knives to lopping shears.

 

[FEENIX]

I too have the (older) work sharp >>> http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f22/dull-knife-dangerous-so-91191/

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I've got to say I've never had a need for an electric sharpener.

I sharpen a lot of knives, both at work and at home; I've got a 16 knife set at work and 50+ knives at my house. I use a multi step process to re sharpen and it depends on how bad the knife edge has been damaged as to where I start. Let's say I have a heavily used blade with a bit of rounding; I'll take an aluminum oxide, coarse or medium diamond, or soft Arkansas after the knife until it has a good rough edge. Then I'll take a ceramic sticks or diamond steel after it to hone the edge then finally take a kitchen steel after the knife to take it to a razor edge.

If the edge isn't that bad I'll often go straight to the diamond steel and the kitchen steel. I hesitate to touch a knife with any powered or carbide sharpener as they will both eventually damage your blade; either through heat transmitted to the blade edge or excess steel removal.

As to field sharpening, I usually have a fine diamond at the truck in my range box for edge touch ups and a diamond pad on my Leatherman in case I blunt the edge cleaning a critter. Diamond sticks the size of a pen are also sold that work well in the field and are rather easy on your blade.

 

[Truc]

I was watching a cooking show, now hold on guys this guy is my hero when it comes to cooking. Alton Brown talked about sharpening knives. His take on it was to hone the knife until it can not be sharpen then send it to someone who will sharpen it properly without burning the metal. To hone I use the diamond stone or Porcelain sticks in a wood block.
Now the Work sharp looks like it can do the sharpening but I think I might need some practice before I ruin some of my better knives.

 

[JessicaAdams]

I've tried several sharpener guides and rotary drill sharpeners.

When I found the Granberg bar mounted sharpener it did a better job (professional quality) than anything I had tried before. I highlighted the small numbers for angle and tilt. That helps a lot.

With any tool, there is a learning curve but very soon set up becomes second nature.

Half the time I don't adjust the depth gauge and just file equal passes for each tooth.

Also, I reshaped a used chain for ripping with my Alaskan chainsaw mill using the Granberg sharpener.

I think it was 5 degrees and the same 10-degree tilt. Worked very well and quick to make. Although I would not reconfigure a brand new chain. Only cut Oak, Cherry and very hard Maple with the homemade chains. They work! If I find some pine I will know how fast I can rip boards as Oak can really slow you down.

 

[aushunter1]

I like and enjoy certain tasks that require skill but I have enough of those to challenge me already. But not sharpening knives.

Just another skill to learn mate, never to late or to old

I am a chef of 35 years experience & there is no way in hell I am putting any blade I value whether its my work knives, hunting knives or anything other than a hatchet or axe near a powered sharpener.

Why?
They tend to make the edge brittle!!!!

Never heard of a 'work sharp' but I have heard of Lansky & for good reason, they make exception sharpening gear, but its all manual & the best method imo.

In saying that I don't own any 'Lansky' product.

I used to use an oil stone many years ago but in the last 20 years the only thing I ever use on my knives is a diamond steel.

I even have mini diamond steels in all my pack, hunting & fishing.

There is no substitute, don't wait until they go blunt keep them sharp!

If I am field dressing a deer, my diamond steel is used every minute or so.

If I am filleting a fish at the ramp then the same goes.

@ 51 I am constantly teaching myself new skills in many things, shooting, reloading, camping, automotive, building, something that challenges me makes life interesting!

 

[KyCarl]

Ahh the Metalworkers art...I start with a Medium Diamond then I have 3 Japanese Water Stones I finish with. Hair splitting sharp! If you don't want to learn get a Lansky
Diamond Set They do a passable job. No Electric!! Heat is your enemy!! it will ruin your knife!! Or a insert blade ready sharp you just change it?

 

[aushunter1]

Heat is your enemy!!

Exactly.
That's where the 'brittleness' of the edge comes in.

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

https://www.edgeproinc.com/

Edgepro for the good knives.

 

[Dean2]

You know, the amount of mis-information on the internet is truly astounding. The only way you are going to make the edge "Brittle" with an electric sharpener is if you get the edge glowing cherry red hot and then rapid quench it in cold water. If you get steel hot enough and let it air cool you will actually make steel softer, not harder. You cannot temper steel at the temps you could ever obtain with friction on a belt sharpener, you would grind the blade to nothing long before it ever got that hot.

I have a ton of different sharpening tools and methods available to me. I use different tools depending on exactly what I am sharpening. For shaping a new blade or getting an edge back in shape you can't beat a belt with different grits. The consumer version of that is the Worksharp style of electric belt sharpeners. They will do a fine job with a bit of patience and practice. I would much prefer this type of electric to any driven stone type of consumer sharpener, though I do use large bench grinders for certain applications.

For finishing a knife to a razor edge, you can't beat a strop with a couple of different grit dressings.

 

[djfriesen]

I've tried several sharpener guides and rotary drill sharpeners.

When I found the Granberg bar mounted sharpener it did a better job (professional quality) than anything I had tried before. I highlighted the small numbers for angle and tilt. That helps a lot.

With any tool, there is a learning curve but very soon set up becomes second nature.

Half the time I don't adjust the depth gauge and just file equal passes for each tooth.

Also, I reshaped a used chain for ripping with my Alaskan chainsaw mill using the Granberg sharpener.

I think it was 5 degrees and the same 10-degree tilt. Worked very well and quick to make. Although I would not reconfigure a brand new chain. Only cut Oak, Cherry and very hard Maple with the homemade chains. They work! If I find some pine I will know how fast I can rip boards as Oak can really slow you down.

Are you a forum necromancer? The number of dead-and-buried threads you've revived is impressive!

 

[J E Custom]

What do you guys use for knife sharpening?

Whenever I am at Cabela's or other outdoor stores I browse the choices but just haven't been confident I know which one to get.

I've had several manual sharpeners for years but want to move on to a very high quality electric for my hunting knives and my wife's kitchen knives.

I build custom knifes also and the Work Sharp is the best I have found for a portable sharpener. I use a 4 square belt sander for my knifes and the Work Sharp Is the closest thing to it.

Be sure and look at the different uses and the proper angle to set the tool for the best results and longest sharpness life for that use.

Unlike kitchen knives, A good custom knife should never see a steel to sharpen it. the steel puts a sharp edge on it but it is fragile in hunting conditions and needs frequent sharpening. The proper angle and finish will make a good blade last an entire hunting season if it is not abused.

Kitchen Knives can benefit from the work sharp if you go with a 22 to 25 o angle. they will stay sharp longer when using them on chopping blocks, or heaven forbid on plastic cutting boards. (Some women like to use plastic because it can be cleaned easy).

This may be more information needed but there it it.

A good quality Diamond stone can be used in the field for touch up if power is not handy.

J E CUSTOM