Kimber Mountain Ascent 6.5CM Help

[MAGA]

Kimbers seem to be hit or miss for some reason. I've got a buddy who has one in 308 and it shoots lights out, 0.5" MOA with factory ammo.

 

[Landscaper]

I have a newer Kimber MA in 280ai. I would not do any recrown or lapping of anything...I would start with trigger, then check the magazine contact on the bottom of the mag well. Those typically are a little tight and mine was as well. If you google kimber montana fixes, this issue pops up but is easily fixed. I also bedded it because I bed every single rifle I own. I did all of this before shooting it for a total of less than 20 bucks. The rifle shot around 1 moa when I first started shooting it.....then I learned the proper way to shoot the ultralights and now it's under 3/8" moa. I really think a lot of the "accuracy issues" with these are with the technique, not the rifle....it was for me anyway. Congrats on your win.

 

[Canhunter35]

I have a newer Kimber MA in 280ai. I would not do any recrown or lapping of anything...I would start with trigger, then check the magazine contact on the bottom of the mag well. Those typically are a little tight and mine was as well. If you google kimber montana fixes, this issue pops up but is easily fixed. I also bedded it because I bed every single rifle I own. I did all of this before shooting it for a total of less than 20 bucks. The rifle shot around 1 moa when I first started shooting it.....then I learned the proper way to shoot the ultralights and now it's under 3/8" moa. I really think a lot of the "accuracy issues" with these are with the technique, not the rifle....it was for me anyway. Congrats on your win.

I agree about the shooters technique. What did you change to facilitate better accuracy with an ultra light gun?

 

[Landscaper]

Couple of things - first was the off-hand placement. I started putting it with slight down pressure on top of my scope. Not pulling, just putting it on top...it helped with the free recoil as I don't use the muzzle brake. Second thing (and i think this was the biggest difference) was I concentrated on getting into the gun rather than pulling the gun into my shoulder and cheek. One way that worked for me in checking that this was correct was I would lift my cheek off the stock but still keep my eye thru the scope - if my line of sight moved more than a few inches at 200 yards I would adjust the rifle slightly and do the cheek on/cheek off thing until I knew I wasn't putting any sort of angled pressure on the stock. Once I figured this stuff out (off hand on top, firm butt contact but don't pull hard into your shoulder, and a lighter cheek weld with no angular pressure) my groups really tightened up. And the more I practiced this, the faster I became at doing it the first time every time. If I can't get comfortable in other positions with my offhand on the scope, I just grab the stock to hold for recoil. I'm in no way any sort of precision shooter (average at best), but that's the stuff that made a big difference for me.

 

[Canhunter35]

Couple of things - first was the off-hand placement. I started putting it with slight down pressure on top of my scope. Not pulling, just putting it on top...it helped with the free recoil as I don't use the muzzle brake. Second thing (and i think this was the biggest difference) was I concentrated on getting into the gun rather than pulling the gun into my shoulder and cheek. One way that worked for me in checking that this was correct was I would lift my cheek off the stock but still keep my eye thru the scope - if my line of sight moved more than a few inches at 200 yards I would adjust the rifle slightly and do the cheek on/cheek off thing until I knew I wasn't putting any sort of angled pressure on the stock. Once I figured this stuff out (off hand on top, firm butt contact but don't pull hard into your shoulder, and a lighter cheek weld with no angular pressure) my groups really tightened up. And the more I practiced this, the faster I became at doing it the first time every time. If I can't get comfortable in other positions with my offhand on the scope, I just grab the stock to hold for recoil. I'm in no way any sort of precision shooter (average at best), but that's the stuff that made a big difference for me.

So you preload your bipods. I've found that too, by uncoiling my back and pushing into the gun, keeps a person much more consistent. I've actually bent a set of champion bipods from preloading them, lol. Got a little carried away

 

[Landscaper]

I don't actually use a bipod. I use my pack since I hunt that way - so i practice the same way. I think it would be same principal either way, I wonder if POI would change at all with/without bipod

 

[Canhunter35]

I don't actually use a bipod. I use my pack since I hunt that way - so i practice the same way. I think it would be same principal either way, I wonder if POI would change at all with/without bipod

As long as the stock is free floated it shouldn't

 

[Rick Richard]

Oh yes it will in most cases regardless if the barrel is free floated or not.

 

[Canhunter35]

Oh yes it will in most cases regardless if the barrel is free floated or not.

Why is that?

 

[Rick Richard]

Different pressure point on the stock and the way the rifle recoils. You may not notice that much of a difference at close ranges, but at long range there will be a difference. Gunwerks has a YouTube video describing the difference of POI.

 

[Canhunter35]

Different pressure point on the stock and the way the rifle recoils. You may not notice that much of a difference at close ranges, but at long range there will be a difference. Gunwerks has a YouTube video describing the difference of POI.

So still a difference in shooting technique. I will have to take a pack and do some experimenting. I pretty much always use bipods if I'm prone