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Keeping your barrel cool…

But, it's a bit different when that river is in the high desert!
Yeah but it's the high desert. I don't know why or when but I fell in love with desert country. I'd move there but all of the folks from way out west are buying up all the land around Terlingua (Big Bend country) and now it's crowded (more than 2 other people is a mob in my book). The new will wear off and they'll leave one day. But I still couldn't move out there because I'd never see my kids and grandkids. They don't feel the same way I do about the desert.

Baton Rouge... umm hmmm... there's the problem. Just kidding. I have two adopted states. NM and LA. My youngest daughter was born up in Minden, LA.. The company I work for has sites all over south LA. Even south of Venice about a 45m boat ride.

Sooo... I got to the range about 9:30. One guy showed up right after I did. He went down to the pistol range, donated lots of .40 and .45 brass to me, then left. Or maybe he shot at targets, idk. He might've lasted 20m. It was in the high 80's already and the winds were gusty and variable from the SE to SW. I'm glad I was testing powder charges and fire forming brass not doing a seating depth test. I left about 3. I probably would have finished 30 minutes sooner but someone else showed up around 1 and came down to introduce himself before he left. By then it was 104.

For the 7 mag I shot 3 shots, spaced out about a minute apart, start a timer for 5m after the 3 shot group was shot, check the barrel, wait if necessary (usually wasn't). Each target had 3 groups on it. So I would shoot those 3 groups, walk down to the target (100 yd), retrieve it, put a new one up, come back, feel the barrel, wait if necessary (never was). Rinse, repeat. The barrel never got so hot that I couldn't hold it in my hand but it was warm. I did that for all 10 groups except some of the delay tactics involved scrounging brass not walking to the target.

For the 100 rounds of 20PPC that I fire formed, that was tedious. I shot the first 20 with the La Radar collecting data just for fun. I shot 10, about 1 minute spacing between shots. Velocity was around 3,600fps. I shot the first 20 at targets at 300 yds. I should say I sprayed them at 300 but I was fire forming and didn't expect much. I walked down and marked hits after each 5 shot group. I was not getting sub moa that's for sure but it was no worse than 1.5 moa. Good enough to move to steel. I got dialed in on the 4" plate and beat it up as much as one can with a 39gr .20 bullet. Then I just switched between plates as I went, shooting 10 shots, 30s apart, then stopping to let the barrel cool. I got away with that for a couple of cycles but temps got over a hundred and I resorted to shooting 1, wait 1m (timer), shoot 2, wait 1m, shoot 3. Step away for 10m, scrounge brass. Talk to myself. Wave at the camera (the range has camera's. I have no idea if anyone watches them). Take a nap. Shooting 80 rounds at steel is not as fun as one might imagine but it was pretty easy to get hits. I was surprise. I figured that as much as the brass moves on firing I wouldn't be able to hit anything.

I sincerely hope I don't need to fire form brass again anytime soon (there are 200 rounds of Lapua .220 Russian in the cabinet).

I didn't have any cooling gizmos. Just time.
 
Gotta get to the range early and get whatever shooting done that you can. Once it's hot, it's hot and the barrels don't cool much, as you experienced. I just got a barrel fan, yesterday was the first time out and it was getting tossed between my dad's 7mag and friend's 28nosler, worked decently so far

A couple years ago I bought some small temperature strips that you can adhere to the exterior of your barrel. I use them religiously and don't shoot once it gets a certain temperature. It helps keep me honest because otherwise it is easy to keep touching off rounds. I have always put them on steel barrels though, they might not be very useful with a CFW barrel
 
50/50 solution of Rubbing alcohol/water. Apply to the barrel with a rag, barrel has to have water dripping off the bottom of the barrel.

Cools the barrel quicker than you could ever imagine. I used to shoot at Ben Avery and Rio Salado.

If you are using a blued barrel, then oil the barrel when you get home.
 
I went to the range yesterday in Tucson. It was 108 when I arrived. Had a friends 300 Win Mag. That has having issues with. Put a new rail and rings on it. Remounted the scope. Cleaned the bore as it looked like it hadn't ever been cleaned. Had wicked Carbon build up and copper fouling. Got to the range with 20 Remington 150 Core-LOKTS. All he had for ammo and that's what he shoots. Took bolt out looked down bore and put it centered to target. Adjusted turrets. Took one shot and adjusted elevation and windage. Took 2 more shots and packed up and left. First shot is on the left, 2 followers after adjusting on the right. Gun is a shooter with Core-LOKTS. Friggin hot out,110 when I left.

View attachment 483510
Results like that helps to tolerate the heat!
 
50/50 solution of Rubbing alcohol/water. Apply to the barrel with a rag, barrel has to have water dripping off the bottom of the barrel.

Cools the barrel quicker than you could ever imagine. I used to shoot at Ben Avery and Rio Salado.

If you are using a blued barrel, then oil the barrel when you get home.
How about a proof carbon fiber?
 
Think about it, the barrel is wrapped, the only way to cool it is to run water down the bore. I ran water down the bore for years when shooting Red Hot p. dogs, suggested to me by one of Rockwell's top engineers as he did on his own custom rifle barrels. Barrel steel would have to get to 800* before the water would have any negative effect....12 years used in dozens of chrome moly and SS barrels says he was right.
 
Barrel coolers/fans obviously loose efficency in high temps. Pointing the gun to the sky with the cooler in the breach does a nice job. It may take 5 minutes or so.
Keeping everything in the shade and shooting when it's cooler is my recommendation. With temperature sensitive powders, I try to keep the ammo at the temperature I expect to shoot at. Summer highs for completions or lower temps in an ice packed cooler for winter hunts.
I love the idea of expanding compressed gas. I've also used a wet towel or buckets. Dunking a barrel in water cools it down almost instantly. I use that method for fire forming.
 
50/50 solution of Rubbing alcohol/water. Apply to the barrel with a rag, barrel has to have water dripping off the bottom of the barrel.

Cools the barrel quicker than you could ever imagine. I used to shoot at Ben Avery and Rio Salado.

If you are using a blued barrel, then oil the barrel when you get home.
A liquid cools about 5 times faster than air, even if it is cool.
I have tried NO2, CO2 and O2 out of bottles, none cool as quickly as isopropyl running through copper tube around a barrel. It works very fast on all but fluted barrels in a minute or 2. Fluted barrels seem to take longer, but not a great deal more.
I stand the rifle with muzzle up and bolt removed, seems to work faster that way.

Cheers.
 
Magnum, we did not use cold water, just regular room temp water, stored in the truck. It takes no more than 6 oz of water, if that, to cool the barrel. We use a bore guide with an O Ring to seal the chamber and stick the hose from the water bottle in the back of the bore guide which fits tight.

Any number of container types can work, with a simple modification to the lid on the container to adapt the water hose. Most auto supply sells an adaptor to a Quart of oil with hose, that perfectly adapts perfectly to the rod guide! THe motor oil container adaptor fits the same threads as a 10-20 oz Pepsi bottle, which is also the same as a 2 Liter bottle, you get the picture.

Once the barrel is cool, then push 4 patches down the bore using a tight punch-type jag, dry the chamber, back to shooting in three-5 minutes MAX once you are set up.

The use of 31" un-turned blanks for barrels is common because they can be "set back" numerous times from throat wear.

My friend was a chief engineer for Rockwell in the aerospace industry, we had bore scopes in 1987 which were used in medical equipment. If cooling with water down the bore had been a problem, we would have seen it early, by 1990. The majority of guns we were shooting were our used benchrest rifles, Stolle Pandas, Shilen, Hall M's, any number of re-barreled 40Xs, Re-barreled Sakos & Rem 700s.

The barrels do not get hot enough internally to do any damage from cooling from water. The other issue that concerns most is water down in the bore that could be left from the tight fitting patches but gasses many thousands of degrees proceed the bullet down the bore where any microscopic droplets of water are burnt up.

The friend that came up with the water cooling system also Chambered the Rim fire rifles for the 1990 Olympics, worked on the Olympic project of the invention of the Federal Gold Metal Match Ammo(gave the patent to the Olympic Committee, who sold the rights to Federal), invented the Browning BOSS system, and worked R&D for half a dozen gun companies. Another friend, Gene Harwood, Vice President of Shell Motor oil in Mt. Saint Hellens, also President of the NBRSA benchrest shooters Association shot with us cooling his custom barrels also. We had 4-6 rifles each when shooting P. dogs and Jackrabbits, with temps running 90*+, barrels do not cool down. I have a cleaning station where the rack holds 4 heavy guns. Pushing the patches down the bore with the tight-fitting jag punch also removed a LOT of carbon, extending the shooting strings. Which powders fouled the least was another learning curve.

I have explained the water cooling system over the years with pictures, but it is like trying to teach people that Aliens do exist.
 
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My shooting range provides bottled water - refrigerated. I use this with a towel. Pour a straight line of water along the width of the towel. Then I squeeze the towle so it is not sopping wet. Lay that on top of the barrel for about 2-3 minutes and then wipe barrel down with the dry end of towel. Let sit for 2 more minutes and shoot again. About 10 minutes max, if I am dinking around with other stuff too.
 
I also find pointing the barrel to the sky with rifle in the shade cools much faster than the rifle orientated horizontal like on a bipod or bags. I don't know the physamachist law for this, but I think it's a real thermodynamics thing. :)
And open the bolt
 
The Magneto Speed cooler works very well
The Magneto cooler is dramatically over priced and under powered my Brother Bean! Now....for 20.00 on Amazon...for the RE-CHARGEABLE Air mattress pump, AND BONUS LIGHT that's on the bottom, you can cool your barrel in about...1/3 of the Magneto time. You just need a piece of hose. 3 nozzles come with the pumps...I just glued the one that fit best onto the hose! " If Necessity is the Mother of Invention, then if you're like me..POVERTY ..must be the Father" Couldn't see paying that much for a low powered fan!
 

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