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Keeping it simple with reloading

There are brass anealers and then there are BRASS CASE ANEALERS this is a never ending conversation. If you are happy with what you purchased OK. I see so many flame annealers that end up selling their flame and go to induction. check if you do it right with flame stay with it, but induction is in a whole different league.
I will have to disagree, all apologies
 
I will have to disagree, all apologies
Bean no apologies needed. like I said "Never ending conversation on annealers". There are hundreds of Posts on LRH alone regarding annealers. If you have a good flame annealer you probably won't use induction. I saw some models for sale look like they work great on utube. I tried several different propane flame processes and then tried an AMP. Expensive, Effective and Easy. Sold my Propane Flame annealers.
 
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To anneal, or not to anneal, that is the question: Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to anneal...thought about it often, never have...wash my cases with dish soap, sun dry or oven dry, depending on time..clean pockets..resize and go...
if I were going to anneal, I would built one, I can built an induction for under $200, a flame for a little less...question still remains...To anneal, or not to anneal...for now I wait...
 
What we term as precision could be better described as consistency. Consistent neck tension at whatever number works well is important as an example. Also, having a load that shoots well over say 1/2 to one grain in powder weight variance goes a long way. Forgiving tune, consistent reloads, good rifle and good shooter. For most folks learning to read wind and mirage will yield better results than anything you can do on the bench.
 
Guys need to stop thinking about neck tension simply as consistency. You can throw a very consistent powder charge, but if its the wrong one the rifle wont shoot. You can seat bullets to a very consistent oal but if its the wrong amount of jump it wont shoot. Neck tension is the same way. First you have to find the right amount of it then do it consistently. Thats why there is no correct answer to anneal or not. Annealing has a huge effect on neck tension. Thats why sometimes it helps and sometimes it hurts. In every rifle I have tested it to date, it has not improved my groups. In some cases it didn't hurt them either, but in some it did. I do tend to find most rifles prefer a lot of neck tension to group best at 1k. I have had many rifles shoot well up close, even to 600 but fall apart at 1k because of this. Maybe thats why I have not had the best luck with annealing for accuracy, I test at 1k. The exception would be the 338s. Maybe the heavy 300 grain bullet provides enough resistance, but they shoot best with light neck tension.
 
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Your still taking the carbon off the inside of the necks, its all I used to use for years
a little lemi shine, a couple of table spoons of purple power and a few drops of dawn mixed with water and run through the wet tumbler.

I'm in a very high dust sandy environment and I just don't want to introduce any more of it than I have to into my chamber and barrel.

For probably the first 15 years I rarely tumbled brass at all and I find running clean brass just makes for a lot less maintenance on the rifle and reloading gear.
 
Bean no apologies needed. like I said "Never ending conversation on annealers". There are hundreds of Posts on LRH alone regarding annealers. If you have a good flame annealer you probably won't use induction. I saw some models for sale look like they work great on utube. I tried several different propane flame processes and then tried an AMP. Expensive, Effective and Easy. Sold my Propane Flame annealers.
Truer words have rarely been spoken.
 
I like to keep reloading simple, but do you think he would have the same results with regular RCBS dies using an expander ball?

Or another way of looking at it... if you substituted him with the average reloader and used his stuff, would the results be the same?
 
I may have missed it, but is he opening the necks during sizing with a ball or afterwards with a mandrel? Or not opening the necks at all after sizing without the expander ball?
 
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