Just got my 1st AR

[mooredj]

I just oil the BCG and the lugs on the bolt. I used motor oil, lightweight (0w) in the winter and regular weight (5w) in the summer.

Last AR armorers course I went to, they suggested the use of motor oil since its designed to work under extreme pressure, heat, and prevent carbon build up.

I use Mobil 1 and BF CLP. I also use Mobil 1 for my turret shaft on my presses.

 

[Chrsm]

I tend to treat them the same as any long rifle, since I like to work up loads for each rifle! I don't like spraying money down the range! Especially today (thanks Brandon) I break I'm in like bolt ones! Tend to let them cool after every shot and so on, gives me more time at the range anyway. But to be honest if you want to shoot the hell out of it great have fun! Mine will empty a mag just as fast our slow as I want. And yes it bothers me if I don't clean the rifle after a day of shooting. But that's just me.

 

[budlight]

Correct on me never using the forward assist if I reload correctly, which I do. Dirty shells don't make it into the chamber but then I am not in combat situations. Shell ejects at a different angle but I can live with that and the case necks don't get dings in them with slick sides. Thanks for your thoughts on this. Just curious - did you remove the dust shields from the rifles used in Desert Storm or did the armorers force you to keep them?

If the dust cover has a problem like loosing a little clip. You just get rid of it. Driving around in really dusty vehicles you keep stuff in a soft gun case bag anyway. So it's clean and not beat up.

IMO the forward assist never helped or worked and I was so glad when they started manufacturing slick open side uppers. Less weight and less BS.

 

[budlight]

One of my slick sided 20 inch SS piston rifles. Eliminates the BCG cleaning.

As for barrel break in when it's nasty out side. I use a 22 cal bore snake and put Castrol Chrome polish on it. I polish the barrel so it's slicker and ready to go on the first few shots. After shooting I use some type of fouling remover and then 3 in 1 oil on the bore snake before putting away.

I'm a firm believer in the modern copper Fouling powder like CFE 223

I've used this grizzly grease

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[Swinehunt74]

I just oil the BCG and the lugs on the bolt. I used motor oil, lightweight (0w) in the winter and regular weight (5w) in the summer.

Last AR armorers course I went to, they suggested the use of motor oil since its designed to work under extreme pressure, heat, and prevent carbon build up.

When I was in Army (Airborne Ranger) 73-77, we kept having jamming issues in M60 and M16's using LSA lube. Switched to LW engine oil and eventually Synthetic motor oil. Explained simply, which gets hotter, pistons-rings or BCG? Malfunctions reduced to almost nil from then on. Still using same qt of Mobile One for last 20 YRS, saving countless $$$$ over designated gun oil that u buy by the 1/2 oz.

 

[Kansaswoodguy]

When I was in Army (Airborne Ranger) 73-77, we kept having jamming issues in M60 and M16's using LSA lube. Switched to LW engine oil and eventually Synthetic motor oil. Explained simply, which gets hotter, pistons-rings or BCG? Malfunctions reduced to almost nil from then on. Still using same qt of Mobile One for last 20 YRS, saving countless $$$$ over designated gun oil that u buy by the 1/2 oz.

Didn't they also have ammo issues in the early days of the M16. Army low bid ammo contract didn't meet Stoners minimum specs or something to that effect?

 

[436]

I'm in for Hoppe's #9 for general usage, Shooters Choice for solvent for the bore and chamber, and Shooters Choice all-weather grease for the mech parts. It's just my way, doesn't mean it's right, but... it works for me. Good luck on the new AR be safe.