L
L! I also use a laser bore-sighter to augment my set-up but looking through the bore is my final QC before engaging. 
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Just bought 4 Rem 783's for $199 each!
- Thread starter engineer40
- Start date
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L
L! I also use a laser bore-sighter to augment my set-up but looking through the bore is my final QC before engaging. engineer40
Well-Known Member
Just throwing this out there to help anyone who wants an inexpensive bolt rifle to play around with; a friend just told me Cabela's currently have these on sale for $259.
Remington® Model 783™ Bolt-Action Rifles : Cabela's
But Remington also currently has a $40 rebate (that I also took advantage of).
https://remington.rebateaccess.com/promotion.php?p=60719
So that puts you at $219 for one of these.
On the Cabela's website they have; 30-06, 7mm Mag, 308, and 270 listed for sale. But I thought my friend said in the store they had the same deal on 243's also. (But don't hold me to that).
Hope this helps!
Remington® Model 783™ Bolt-Action Rifles : Cabela's
But Remington also currently has a $40 rebate (that I also took advantage of).
https://remington.rebateaccess.com/promotion.php?p=60719
So that puts you at $219 for one of these.
On the Cabela's website they have; 30-06, 7mm Mag, 308, and 270 listed for sale. But I thought my friend said in the store they had the same deal on 243's also. (But don't hold me to that).
Hope this helps!
Yep, that's exactly what I use it for ...
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Snowbird
Well-Known Member
i just got one of those in 30-06 for a cabin/truck gun. i haven't decided if i want to put a scope on it or open sights.
fwiw, the online site has a scope combo that includes a 300 win mag as an option, as well as the 243 you mentioned. it is not much more expensive and you could have your cheap scope. it is branded remington but i believe they were bushnell scopes on it last year.
Shot one in 308 the other day. With a 10x scope @ 100 yds., got about 3 moa with some cheap ammo and just under 2 moa with some Federal 168 gr. GM. Also it failed to feed the last bullet 100% of the time and occasionally failed to pick up 2nd and third rounds. Other than poor accuracy and being completely unreliable, it's perfect. Got it as a project gun but the magazine problem has me a little p.o.'ed since the "quality" of the magazines are supposed to be one of the big things about this rifle. Oh well... the guy at Remington Customer Service/Returns and I are on a first name basis by now anyway. Honestly, Remington must account for 5% of UPS's profits alone.
engineer40
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about your rifle. Always sucks to have problems with a new purchase, even when it's a "bargain" purchase like a 783. Please keep me updated on if Remington helps sort the issues out for you. Because I haven't had to talk to their Customer Service yet as my 4x 783's I own have worked flawlessly. Not a single mag issue on any of them and the accuracy is as good as any rifle could be with cheap ammo. My reloading press and accessories have been shipped and should be at my house within a couple days. I'll report back on accuracy once I work up some loads.
Is the magazine issue only on the 308's? I saw a couple other websites where someone mentioned the mag issues but it always seemed like it was a 308. Maybe I'm remembering wrong though...
engineer40
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you probably already know this, but thought it might be worthy to mention to anyone else reading... The 783's do not come with any iron sights. Only some screw holes for a scope mount.
For the cabin/truck gun use case, I'm a big fan of fixed 4 power scopes. Why you ask?
1 - A "truck gun" rifle usually means you want something you don't care about quite as much as a nice hunting or bench rifle. Fixed power scopes are really durable compared to their adjustable power peers. Way less moving parts. Less chance of losing your zero. Hence, you don't have to be as nice to the rifle.
2 - How often are you going to shoot over 400 yards with your truck gun? The 4x will be fine...
3 - Price. You get a lot of scope for your money with fixed power.
That's just my opinion. I use both adjustable power and fixed power scopes depending on the main use of the rifle.
Snowbird
Well-Known Member
Yes, I was considering having a smith put some holes in for me. I do like the idea of a 4x scope too. I had one on my marlin 30-30 that I took my first deer with. It was a Charles Daly and it still holds zero to this day.
Talked to them today. They're sending out another mag. Although I've had some problems with their products, their CS seems good and turn around time is usually 3 weeks (one week there, one week to fix and one week back) which seems more than acceptable. It seems to me I've read the same thing about the 783/308 magazines having problems.
I plan to make this rifle a 6.5 x 47L. I was hoping Benchmark would make a pre-fit but no-go so I went with a Criterion barrel, lug and barrel nut. I was sort of hoping this 308 was a good shooter and I'd use it as a backcountry all around beater which, if it was a shooter, could find a very warm place in my heart but oh-well. I think I'll try to see if I can get the factory stock to work. Those pillars seem like a good idea. By the way yours is shooting, I'd be keeping one of those around just the way it is.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Why not try the no-nut 700 setup, like I suggested. I think it would be a better setup in the end. Less moving parts, and if you don't plan on swapping out barrels until you need a new tube (like most people), and if you have a barrel vise, and action wrench handy, then it really doesn't matter if you have the barrel nut, or not, right?
Why not try the no-nut 700 setup, like I suggested. I think it would be a better setup in the end. Less moving parts, and if you don't plan on swapping out barrels until you need a new tube (like most people), and if you have a barrel vise, and action wrench handy, then it really doesn't matter if you have the barrel nut, or not, right?
Mostly simplicity of barrel swaps. I figured it would scratch an itch to fiddle around with an inexpensive action and easily switch barrels while keeping a proven stock, action, scope combo. Maybe save a little space as a barrel doesn't take up the space of a whole different rifle. Go from short, light backcountry rifle to stout ambush rifle with relative ease and back again. And... I haven't done it before and it sounds fun.
Although I'm a little obsessed with trying to get decent performance from my rifles, I can live with knowing that not all my rifles are the "best" I can afford and sometimes, pretty good is good enough. On a good day, I'm about a 1/2" shooter so if I'm getting close to that... Nobody's ever around to see me shoot or hunt anyway so a rifle that's a little ugly and hodgepodged together, but meets or exceeds my expectations pleases me quite a bit. That said, I can't find any fault in your reasoning.
engineer40
Well-Known Member
If you can think back all the way to my original post, I got these rifles as something cheap I could play around with.
I decided I wanted a muzzle brake, and not the clamp on kind. I purchased the following parts from Amazon and just did it myself yesterday!
Die Stock
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Die Stock, 1-1/2" Size (Pack of 1): Round Threading Dies: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Threading Die
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Round Adjustable Threading Die, 1-1/2" Diameter, 5/8"-24 Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Die Started Thread Alignment Tool
CNC Warrior 5/8-24 RH AK Die Starter Thread Alignment Tool TAT for 7.62/.308 caliber - - Amazon.com
Even though these are cheap rifles, dang my stomach was turning yesterday when I started threading the barrel! I was nervous! Mainly because I did a ton of Googleing and everywhere people asked the question about threading their own barrel, it was unanimously frowned upon. And the second reason I was so nervous, although I did find a couple people who did thread their own barrels and didn't use a lathe... none of them ever told if their results affected accuracy! Which just solidified what people were saying that a DIY barrel threading project should not be considered.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
I took my time... went slow...
And it turned out perfect! The brake goes on tight, no wiggle. It stays in place and it looks great... But I couldn't consider this a successful project yet!
Onto the 2nd gut wrenching part of the project; Range Time. I have to actually shoot this thing! Did I jack up the accuracy I had? Will it get blown off the end of the barrel the first time I pull the trigger?
I'm happy to report the very first 3 times I pulled the trigger, the bullet holes were all touching at 100 yards! I'll be honest and say this is the only time during the shooting that all 3 holes were touching, but the rifle still shot very good. I will even say I think it shot more accurate WITH the brake than without. Which confused me some. Best I can figure out is the brake helped keep the muzzle jump under control?
All-In-All, successful DIY threaded barrel project.
PS - I also got the below and plan to grind down and thread my bolt handle for a new bolt knob this weekend!
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Round Adjustable Threading Die, 1-1/2" Diameter, 5/16"-24 Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I decided I wanted a muzzle brake, and not the clamp on kind. I purchased the following parts from Amazon and just did it myself yesterday!
Die Stock
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Die Stock, 1-1/2" Size (Pack of 1): Round Threading Dies: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Threading Die
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Round Adjustable Threading Die, 1-1/2" Diameter, 5/8"-24 Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Die Started Thread Alignment Tool
CNC Warrior 5/8-24 RH AK Die Starter Thread Alignment Tool TAT for 7.62/.308 caliber - - Amazon.com
Even though these are cheap rifles, dang my stomach was turning yesterday when I started threading the barrel! I was nervous! Mainly because I did a ton of Googleing and everywhere people asked the question about threading their own barrel, it was unanimously frowned upon. And the second reason I was so nervous, although I did find a couple people who did thread their own barrels and didn't use a lathe... none of them ever told if their results affected accuracy! Which just solidified what people were saying that a DIY barrel threading project should not be considered.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
I took my time... went slow...
And it turned out perfect! The brake goes on tight, no wiggle. It stays in place and it looks great... But I couldn't consider this a successful project yet!
Onto the 2nd gut wrenching part of the project; Range Time. I have to actually shoot this thing! Did I jack up the accuracy I had? Will it get blown off the end of the barrel the first time I pull the trigger?
I'm happy to report the very first 3 times I pulled the trigger, the bullet holes were all touching at 100 yards! I'll be honest and say this is the only time during the shooting that all 3 holes were touching, but the rifle still shot very good. I will even say I think it shot more accurate WITH the brake than without. Which confused me some. Best I can figure out is the brake helped keep the muzzle jump under control?
All-In-All, successful DIY threaded barrel project.
PS - I also got the below and plan to grind down and thread my bolt handle for a new bolt knob this weekend!
Drill America DWT Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Round Adjustable Threading Die, 1-1/2" Diameter, 5/16"-24 Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
The brake was not more accurate because it reduced muzzle jump. That happens LONG after the bullet has left the bore. Same goes for any felt recoil, or anything like that. About the only thing you can do to a rifle to affect accuracy is pull the shot, slap the trigger, or twitch before the primer is ignited. The most likely reason it was more accurate was from the brake evening out the release of the propulsion gasses as the bullet left the muzzle, creating a more stable atmosphere, removing any awkward force on the back of the bullet, causing it to kick as it exited.
