JB and Kroil...

[Mikecr]

OK, now how would a dry lubricant like moly, hbn or ws2 between a slick/smooth bore and a bullet behave?

Where you dry film lubricate the smooth bare metal, copper won't stick.

 

[desertcj]

Where you dry film lubricate the smooth bare metal, copper won't stick.

My bullets are all coated...and even though I've been stroking away with JB, my rifles shoot better then before.

 

[dmoon]

My bullets are all coated...and even though I've been stroking away with JB, my rifles shoot better then before.

What coating are you using? Do you prep the bore like we used to do with moly?

 

[desertcj]

Moly. I wet tumble my bullets and I do not pre coat the bore.

 

[Biggs300]

I've used Kroil and JB on several rifles, and while I'm sure it worked fine, I was always a bit concerned about what the abrasives might do to the barrels. I've pretty much come full circle now and I'm back to Hoppe's #9 Benchrest Copper Remover once or twice a year, with normal cleaning using with plain old Hoppe's #9 every 75 to 100 rounds.

I don't have a bore scope and honestly don't know if Hoppe's get out all the copper, but my rifles stay accurate and accuracy don't seem to decline between copper cleanings. On the plus side, I don't worry about mixing chemicals or abrasives and I feel the cleaning process I use is safe. Also, I've now switched to nylon brushes rather than brass brushes that I've used in the past.

 

[Seabeeken]

Mike, you must have been sick when you ruined your own barrel. That thought gives me shivers just thinking about it. I too, know of someone, who ruined a Hart bsrrel with flitz, and the JB, red is just about the same. I totally understand the difference between polished, and over polished, and in this case, too much of a good thing, is a bad thing. It's easy to do, because, the products to do it with are readily avail. ( maybe they are secretly owned by barrel makers). Hehe.
Thanks for the input, and experience.

So much disinformation in this thread I have to speak up.
Flitz has never ever harmed a barrel. It won't even remove hot blue. I've been using it in every cleaning on all my barrels and the bore cleaner is amazing. Put it on a brush, 15-20 strokes and carbon is gone every time in my barrels. I talked to Flitz myself and here it is. Flitz paste (blue) has 6000 grit in it and that's so fine it isn't even considered an abrasive and will not harm your bore or hot blueing. Their bore cleaner is the same as their liquid polish (green) and is what I use and it's amazing and verified by a bore scope in over a dozen barrels. Try some in your corn cob media and see what it does. Amazing. After cleaning my bores with flitz I run a patch damp with eezox thru to help Remove the flitz and rust proof the bore. JB will not harm a bore either. It's non embedding grit is softer than steel. Never be afraid to call a manufacturer of a product and ask them about their product, I've always found them helpful and honest. Flitz is an excellent company and make great products. The bore cleaner will also remove rust on your gun that you didn't know was there. Try it. After cleaning the outside, use flitz sealer on it, keeps the water and rust away and keeps it looking good.

 

[Mikecr]

For one, you don't remove problem carbon with a non-abrasive. Second, super fine abrasives are polishes.
And finally, polishing a bore vastly increases it's copper fouling.

J-B bore cleaner works great because it is coarse as a lapping compound (just opposite of a polish).
The best barrels in the world come to us lapped (not polished).

 

[JSHKS]

Three years, dang I thought I read slow.

 

[Buzzsaw]

I've gone to the Thorough Flush System from Bullet Central. its amazing.

check it out

also hung on Wipeout

 

[Seabeeken]

For one, you don't remove problem carbon with a non-abrasive. Second, super fine abrasives are polishes.
And finally, polishing a bore vastly increases it's copper fouling.

J-B bore cleaner works great because it is coarse as a lapping compound (just opposite of a polish).
The best barrels in the world come to us lapped (not polished).

You can remove carbon with non abrasives. The auto industry has been doing it for decades.
ive Used flitz for some years now and my bores are polished to an amazing shine, not abrasively but chemically. Shined and smooth as the chrome bumper of my truck and no visible copper And I shoot barnes bullets.
By govt standards, 6000 grit isn't considered an abrasive. Look it up. Use what you like

 

[7stw]

You can remove carbon with non abrasives. The auto industry has been doing it for decades.
ive Used flitz for some years now and my bores are polished to an amazing shine, not abrasively but chemically. Shined and smooth as the chrome bumper of my truck and no visible copper And I shoot barnes bullets.
By govt standards, 6000 grit isn't considered an abrasive. Look it up. Use what you like

You hit it right on the head with the auto industry. I work on tractor trailers, and have found that green can, brake cleaner works amazing for taking out carbon. But always add oil to the bore afterwards, as it will strip the bore , and open it up to rust. Someone just told me to try CLR, which also attacks carbon.

 

[7stw]

Ps, sea foam works very well too. I leave my bores with a coating off this after shooting.

 

[Buzzsaw]

CLR is great on carbon

 

[coyotemaster]

I really don't go for perfectly clean. Your gun is going to copper back up in a few shots anyway so once I get most of the carbon out and there's not much blue on my patches I call it good.

A whole bunch of guns shoot best with a little fouling or what I call stabilized-- not squeaky clean not heavily fouled.
When the throat starts to go it may take 6-10 shots to shoot best as it fills voids from alligatoring. ( new term?)