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Is there such a thing as, "too much scope"?

memtb, that is a good one, "We don't use heavy scopes…..as our long-range shooting is rather short".

Some of the latest and greatest scopes coming out now have some serious heft to them.

I had a 7 STW Sendeo size tube, action in a Rem Laminate stock, and a great muzzle break on it. The scope kept moving back in the rings. The scope went fuzzy on me, sent it back to Burris with their FOREVER warranty. They said the scope was ruined as a lens was cracked, the muzzle blast was pretty good on this round and the scope moving in the rings did the damage. I surmise that the concussion broke the lens? Burris exchanged the Black Diamond with their best scope on the market, and I am very happy.

I went to using some darn good rings and bases.
Busted internals - heavy scope on a hard kicker - inertia - increased movement on lighter internals having less mass. The scope should have moved forward in rings as the rifle & rings recoiled back - inertia effect causing the scope (a body) to remain at rest. The inner workings of the scope like lighter (less mass) internal parts such as lenses, reticle & erector tube would be subject to increased movement having less mass. Busted wire type cross hairs occur. Stuff like this requires scope makers to make tough internals & construction on big $, heavy scopes.

Pleading exception to the requirement of variable power scopes:

If I could buy an exceptional high-quality glass. coatings, & internals 16X50, 30mm tube, side focus, mil-rad scope, would cheerfully spend $1K. I would mount this wonder scope using Burris XTR Sig rings on a 1-piece pic base held down with 4, 8-40 torx head screws after cleaning up everything with carb cleaner then blue loc tite. Relatively light weight, enough magnification, good size exit pupil (3.1 mm). Except for ranges less than 50 yards on moving targets I have never felt handicapped with scopes having a 5 foot field of view at 100, but if focus could be a consideration. I don't think at 50 yards & under most scope selections would be "too much scope".
 
Hugnot, I was with you…..right up until 5'@ 100 yards. Appardently, you don't spend much time in dense timber/brush…..were you may have a rapidly moving target much closer to the 5 feet than 100 yards! 😉 memtb
That's about the time I like the see threw rings w/ iron sights on my lever guns.
 
That's about the time I like the see threw rings w/ iron sights on my lever guns.

I put them on my Model 88 Winchester, but just couldn't make them work for me! I had to raise my head from the stock…..losing my "cheek weld". And, I could never hit hand thrown cans like pre scope and see through rings!

I'm glad that you've had success with them! memtb
 
Busted internals - heavy scope on a hard kicker - inertia - increased movement on lighter internals having less mass. The scope should have moved forward in rings as the rifle & rings recoiled back - inertia effect causing the scope (a body) to remain at rest. The inner workings of the scope like lighter (less mass) internal parts such as lenses, reticle & erector tube would be subject to increased movement having less mass. Busted wire type cross hairs occur. Stuff like this requires scope makers to make tough internals & construction on big $, heavy scopes.

Pleading exception to the requirement of variable power scopes:

If I could buy an exceptional high-quality glass. coatings, & internals 16X50, 30mm tube, side focus, mil-rad scope, would cheerfully spend $1K. I would mount this wonder scope using Burris XTR Sig rings on a 1-piece pic base held down with 4, 8-40 torx head screws after cleaning up everything with carb cleaner then blue loc tite. Relatively light weight, enough magnification, good size exit pupil (3.1 mm). Except for ranges less than 50 yards on moving targets I have never felt handicapped with scopes having a 5 foot field of view at 100, but if focus could be a consideration. I don't think at 50 yards & under most scope selections would be "too much scope".
We can only dream.....
 
Hugnot, I was with you…..right up until 5'@ 100 yards. Appardently, you don't spend much time in dense timber/brush…..were you may have a rapidly moving target much closer to the 5 feet than 100 yards! 😉 memtb
Correct - my specialty is tiny rodents at much longer ranges than 100 yards in the wide rolling prairies of western USA, with exception to larger apex rodents like yellow belly marmots, aka rockchucks that often go 8 pounds plus & coyotes - at same distances.

Should I need a weapon for rapidly moving targets at powder burn ranges ;) I would use this:

IMG_1897.JPG

No scope, olde fashion open sights - ramp front. Granted, with olde eyes there is the problem of astigmatism preventing nice clear focus of back sights for a fine sighting. A small 2X scope would fix this. A scope with a 5 ft field of view at 100 would probably have a FOV at powder burn ranges that would be measured in inches. Mounting a 3X prism scope on this rifle would be problematic because short eye relief and bigger than customary tube diameter. I will probably mount a Leupold 2X light weight scope on the rifle & everything would be easy to lug around.

A Leupold Freedom 1.5-4X20 would not be "too much scope" for this rifle.
 
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Correct - my specialty is tiny rodents at much longer ranges than 100 yards in the wide rolling prairies of western USA, with exception to larger apex rodents like yellow belly marmots, aka rockchucks that often go 8 pounds plus & coyotes - at same distances.

Should I need a weapon for rapidly moving targets at powder burn ranges ;) I would use this:

View attachment 446304

No scope, olde fashion open sights - ramp front. Granted, with olde eyes there is the problem of astigmatism preventing nice clear focus of back sights for a fine sighting. A small 2X scope would fix this. A scope with a 5 ft field of view at 100 would probably have a FOV at powder burn ranges that would be measured in inches. Mounting a 3X prism scope on this rifle would be problematic because short eye relief and bigger than customary tube diameter. I will probably mount a Leupold 2X light weight scope on the rifle & everything would be easy to lug around.

A Leupold Freedom 1.5-4X20 would not be "too much scope" for this rifle.
With age (on both ends) I've found reflex sights a very good alternative to irons.
 
Never leave the bench after shooting with the scope set on its higher powers! Turn it all the way down. If you need more power in the field you will always have more time to turn the power UP, than if you need to turn it down. Always.

Lots of animals have been lost by this simple mistake.
I usually remember to turn the magnification to it's lowest setting.

But i have been caught out making a bad shot on a black bear due to forgetting to rezero my scope after shooting long distance.
 
With age (on both ends) I've found reflex sights a very good alternative to irons.
I fully understand and even embrace the instructional benefit of iron sights. But the ease of use of any modern holo, red dot, reflex, etc combined with proven durability makes them an easy choice now. An 1895 in 45-70 with a red dot is an absolute brush monster. No concerns over lack of penetration there, and depending on the sling setup easier to handle than a 44 Mag revolver.
 
I put them on my Model 88 Winchester, but just couldn't make them work for me! I had to raise my head from the stock…..losing my "cheek weld". And, I could never hit hand thrown cans like pre scope and see through rings!

I'm glad that you've had success with them! memtb
Or it's so foggy any scope is worthless. Get the 94 and go git em.
 
Hugnot……pray tell, what cartridge? memtb
.375-.338

7mm Rem fireformed/necked up to .375 works.
IMG_1900.JPG

Drill & tap Ruger M77 MKII for a pic EGW rail then reflex sight or other.
Ballistics with 270 grain spbt or 250 gr. spbt are sort of like a .308 with 165's or 168's so a scope would be nice for longer ranges.
 
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