Is it Me? Has anyone ever seen this?

Aimsmall, I agree, Parallax will not cause a 5" shift.

I just responded to the statement it does not have a effect at 100 yards.
Just picking fly S***t out of pepper.

IMHO, OP needs to check his scope before he goes any further. I would put money on it that the scope is the issue.


I agree.

1. Remove scope.
2. Check torque on base screws
3. Mount another scope that's verified..(I use a competition Nightforce Br 12-46 to sight in , break in, and test accuracy of a rifle before I mount the permanent hunting scope on it)
4. Clean barrel
5. Call Fierce (barrel twist, bullet weight, etc)
6. Try multiple factory Ammo that is closest to Fierce recommendations
7. Break in barrel (clean after every round for first 20 rounds, then after every three shot group, using a good copper remover (bore tech eliminator is what most custom gunsmiths recommend)(go to GA Precision website and down load breakin procedures and follow it)
8. If it still shoots like crap a) return to Fierce b) sell it (personally, I'm very experienced shooter with 14 years military and 30 years local and if the rifle isn't under 1/2" after 100 rounds then I sell it)...
 
I recently took possession of a brand new Fierce Titanium Carbon in 300WM. I topped it off with a Leopold VX-6HD 3x18. Nightforce rings and a Piccatinny rail mount. The rings and bases have been Loctited. I shoot sitting from a bench, I use a Caldwell Tack Driver for the front rest and a standard leather covered V rest for the rear. It never grouped consistently as well as it should. Some groups were good, others not. After reading here, I began dry firing it at the range. I noticed that about 9 out of 10 times at the dropping of the firing pin, the point of aim would shift. Usually to the left, but not always. Sometimes it would go up slightly. On occasion it would go right slightly. So today I set out to fix this problem, assuming it was me. I again began dry firing while adjusting my grip, varying how firmly I held the rifle, and working on natural point of aim. I worked on a smoooooth trigger pull, no flinch, and pulling the trigger STRAIGHT back. I played with how firmly my cheek was on the stock. I put my left hand on the top of the scope, on the fore end and didn't let anything touch the barrel. I tried putting the rifle on the rest, without ANYTHING touching it except my trigger finger, and at the drop of the firing pin it still happened about 9 out of 10 times! When it didn't, I couldn't figure out if I had done anything different. I tried dry firing my Blaser after this and didn't get any shift. My friend dry fired mine and he saw the same thing. Has anyone ever seen this? It's driving me crazy! Heres pictures of my targets today at 100 yards. If you look close enough, you can see my notes on the targets.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
What magnification are you trying this with? Dial your scope to the lowest setting...see if you are still seeing the same thing
 
ULRS...Ultra Lightweight rifle syndrome.

Not enough mass to keep a stiff firing pin spring from slightly moving the entire rifle. Watch the bolt jump when you dry fire it.

Those ultra lights are made to be carried all day and shot across 300-500 yard canyons. Not 1000 yard ones.

This is what you are seeing. I've seen it many times before with my own eyes back when I thought I liked ultra-light rifles.
 
It is a simple process to check your parallax and different scopes are more sensitive to parallax adjustment. Simply focusing the field of view does not necessarily mean the parralax is in adjustment. With the scope on a steady rest move your eye position from edge to edge of the reticle focus ring without touching the rifle and see if your reticle moves on the target. Some scopes will see significant reticle movement when not adjusted and others will have very little. If you have poor near vision that requires you to adjust out the reticle focus ring to focus the reticle you may find the field of view is slightly out of focus when the parallax is in adjustment. With that said, some scope reticles will move over 1" at 100 yards when not adjusted depending where your eye is aligned with the scope. Sorry for the long explanation but I continue to see shooters coming to me with accuracy problems that have been easily resolved with proper parallax adjustment.
 
Aimsmall, I agree, Parallax will not cause a 5" shift.

I just responded to the statement it does not have a effect at 100 yards.
Just picking fly S***t out of pepper.

IMHO, OP needs to check his scope before he goes any further. I would put money on it that the scope is the issue.
Parallax is worst the closer you are. I haven't seen any anything to suggest in his pictures that the group is any bigger than three inches. And parallax can certainly do that. You know how I know? The same reason I know that parallax has a harder effect close range...because I was taught, and have experienced.
 
I have several ultralight rifles that do what your describing.

The only cure for me has been loading the bipod when lying prone with a rear bag.

I have not gotten consistent results with any other technique.
I have a 300 RUM that I was having grouping issues with. I put cut off arrows with field tips in my Harris bipod. Shrank groups instantly. I'm SOL if I ever have to shoot off a surface I can not push those arrows into.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Just to respond to a few, I am using the same ammo as the rifle was sighted in with and the 1/2" guarantee made. When I started the last session, the bore was squeaky clean. The barrel was broken in as it was recommended.

Next, to rule out the scope, I will attach my laser bore sighter on the end of the barrel and do the dry fire exercise to see if the POA actually moves with the reticle. As I said, I recently locktited the bases and rings myself.

I'll also pay much more attention to the parallax adjustment.

It's a slow process for me as the distance to the range is such that its a full day to go out and back and get any useful data.

I'll report my findings as I get them.

Thanks again guys!
 
What's you trigger pull weight? My inclination would be that it's 3 things: 1) lightweight rifle (as others have said). 2) If your trigger pull is greater than 1.5lbs there's a good chance that what is happening is that your muscle tension is actually moving the rifle either before/after/ or both after the trigger releases. It's a physiologic thing mediated by golgi tendon receptors. 3) Heart beat in conjunction with all of the above.
 
I'm not as smart as the guys on here but, this happened to me.
I built a new rifle (1993) in .338 WM. Sako action and barrel, McMillan stock; topped with a Leupold 2 1/2-8 scope.
I went to the range and the first shot was dead on @ 100 yds. the other shots dropped down both left and right.
Tried different loads, same result several times.
The problem was in the optics, not me, my load or my finger.
I called Leupold and they sent me a new scope overnight so I could make opening day of the elk hunt.
Great doing business in the US.
 
I know I am late in the conversation. After reading your description, Armbar, I immediately thought of lock time and the firing pin spring. Dave Tubb has an excellent article on this subject. Not sure you can alter your rifle's pieces as shown in this article. It is another variable.

from article: " a reduction in lock time will cause your rifle to hit closer to where you held the sight when you pulled the trigger. Everyone's rifle is moving when it's fired. The amount of movement may be almost imperceptible, but that's all it takes."

"A lightweight pin also ignites the primer with less movement of mass, thereby greatly reducing the vibrations associated with firing pin fall. These vibrations begin to cycle and oscillate the muzzle well before the bullet exits the barrel. This effect is easily seen by dry firing from a benchrest using a high powered scope. Watch the reticle movement "before" and "after" and the difference is astounding."

http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-speedlock-firing-pin/firingpin-remington-700
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top