I need your advise on a build

You already own the action, spend 350-450 to fix it right or buy a custom action for a little more than twice the cost of true blueprinting. I have a Curtis (when Joel was still with them) and prefer three lug bolts, I would buy the Terminus over Defiance and other Remington clones because it's design is what I prefer, not to mention Joel's attention to excellence. If you keep your Remington and want a better bolt, I have a PTG magnum bolt that I would sell, it should solve any extraction issues as well.
 
I have a Remington 700 in 7mm mag. That has never shot well. I want to scrap everything but the action and have something built. I naturally want all of the range and accuracy I can squeeze out of the 700 action.

Initial thoughts are to build a Nosler 33. I am planning on sending it to hart to have the barrel and action work done. Maybe a jewel trigger. No idea on a stock right now.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on caliber or barrel companies?
Thats easy a 338 edge will knock down any thing in north america. And will get you well past a thousand. Any thing a lapua will do the edge does it a little bit better as long as you use a 30 inch tube.
 
My opinion is to keep the 7mag and figure out why it's not shooting or sell it. How much do you want to spend on a build? Tenacity actions is a good start for a custom build.

If you want to use a 700 action I would sell that gun and buy a 700 action or have a smith provide one to true up. You will end up spending more money tearing that one down.
 
I have a 7mm and in my desire to shoot the heavies, I started to become an expert in identifying bullet instability from looking at targets. When I try to use a bullet my 1:10 twist barrel cannot stabilize, I get clusters of groups. I'll have a group at 12 o'clock, one at 3, another at 7. Each individual group will be a reasonable shot group on it's own.

Are you also shooting heavy for caliber bullets, say 160gr and up?
 
I have a Remington 700 in 7mm mag. That has never shot well. I want to scrap everything but the action and have something built. I naturally want all of the range and accuracy I can squeeze out of the 700 action.

Initial thoughts are to build a Nosler 33. I am planning on sending it to hart to have the barrel and action work done. Maybe a jewel trigger. No idea on a stock right now.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on caliber or barrel companies?
I haven't read all the response so maybe this has been covered.

I went down that exact road, and my advise is to sell your 7mag or pawn it for $200 and go buy a Bighorn Origin, Gunwerks GRB, Alamo apr, etc. You'll be way ahead financially.

As far as cartridge is concerned, unless your taking big game beyond 800 yards, stick with a 7mag IMO.

For barrel maker: I have bartleins, benchmark, & proof. All shoot amazing. I'd have no problem with a hart, Krieger, Brux, etc, etc, etc.
 
Sell the Rem, take the money and find a beat up old Savage 10 or 110 depending on if you need a short or long action for your new cartridge selection. Order up a barrel from Kreiger (yea they cost more but only a few boxes of shells more) and take it to a MACHINIST gunsmith. If they don't have a full size lathe and a mill that look like they get used regularly, you have the wrong guy. There are fantastic smiths out there that can do a perfect bend on a Purdey shotgun stock that I would not let do a crown job on any of my rifles. Order up your stock, bottom metal and trigger and you should have a sub .25 moa package once you find the load that is in one of the harmonic nodes. Oh, float the barrel, bed the action and use the biggest/thickest recoil lug you can find. Make sure that you hog out the bedding on the muzzle side of the lug. Torque the front action screw down and snug the rear (Savage). Last 2 that my guy did for me shoot sub .15 on a 7mm Mag and sub .20 MOA on a 6.5 Creed.

If you are set up for loading 7 Mag and like the round, stick with it. You can find a low pressure node around 2600-2700 fps with a 162 grain bullet and another node a little over 3000. That low pressure load lets you do all the shooting you want out to a thousand without burning up the throat and the high pressure will get you to nearly a mile with a good high BC bullet. Don't listen to that crap about the short neck on the 7 Mag being a problem, the short neck releases the bullet more consistently and is easier to get the runout down. (Lee Collet neck dies are the the cheapest piece of crap sizing dies out there but they are hands down the beast neck sizing dies on the market.)
 
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Anyone had the "LRI group buy" work done on their M700 action? Seems like Chad Dixon is able to knock out the work pretty quickly to blueprint and install a customer's barrel. I've thought if going that route a few times, but I'd have to buy a M700 to do it. I just haven't found the right deal yet and I don't know what I'd build.

https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/group-buy-remington-m700-accurizing-barreling-coating-service

The other blueprint I'd like to try is from Gre'-Tan Rifles.

https://www.gretanrifles.com/product-page/accurize-rem-rem-style-action

I don't disagree with going with a custom action from the start, but if you already have a M700 action that's what I'd use as well.
 
I have a Remington 700 in 7mm mag. That has never shot well. I want to scrap everything but the action and have something built. I naturally want all of the range and accuracy I can squeeze out of the 700 action.

Initial thoughts are to build a Nosler 33. I am planning on sending it to hart to have the barrel and action work done. Maybe a jewel trigger. No idea on a stock right now.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on caliber or barrel companies?
Please talkto Ron sinemma at benchmark barrls before you do anythi ng. Their barrels are unsurpassed(check how many shooters in the top at nationals are using benchmark barrel for the last few years), they do almost zero advertizing so they can build what you want , probably at a better price, they are all long range shooters and can answer your questions without bias. They know what works. I have about 20 rifles built or barreled by them. They tell me i am their no 1 customer! I am currently , as i write shooting my newest gun in africa on a safari. Its a 28 nosler built on a rem 700, that was a 7 rem mag, just like you. Shoots 195 berger vlds at 3050, and shoots .25 moa all day long. If you dont have contact info for benchmark let me know, i will get it to you. NO I AM NOT A BENCHMARK EMPLOYEE OR OWNER, I JUST LOVE WHAT THEY DO! I THINK THEY R THE BEST!
 
Just buy the Remington 700 in 300wsm I built for Morehouse. You will see what a Remington can be. Seems some are confusing the terms and functions here about why Remington are junk. They are for sure not junk and can be reliable and accurate with a few mods. People that tinker hate on Remington Because They can't do it themselves and are sometimes the one causing the issues. I'm going to explain a couple things that happens right now.
1) your bolt has only one lug that touches.
2) your bolt handle is too far back and has very little Primary Extraction.
3) tolerance stacking in all the mating surfaces.
Once these have been adressed it is a very good action. Is it the best. Heck no not by a long shot. But it will perform as good as other clones. Here is what people try to do that makes things worse.
1) improper lug lapping. Even if I cut and lap the lugs perfectly it just made the gun worse for now. The bolt handle moved further from where it was and you lose all or most of your primary extraction.
2) most people don't know handle need repositioned. So not normally a problem here.
3) people try all kinds of jigs powered jigs to get straight pieces with perfect 90s on these actions. Most work good if you are skilled.
Most Remington 700s are going to be straight enough to shoot good out of the box for 1/2 moa aplications. So if the lugs are lapped and then the handle is moved up to give the primary extraction a chance it is a solid performer.
People are using primary extraction and extration as the same thing and it is not. Primary is when the ramps on bolt handle and action press again each other during rotation of the bolt body and breaks the shell lose from chamber after firing. It doesn't need to move far fortunately. The most you can have the better.
Lots of people think the extractor, the physical part that catches the rim on a 700 is week. It is not weak. They seldom break unless you are blowing tons of primers. I have replaced more sako type extractors than the Remington clip style. In my opinion they all work well. Even mini-m16 extractors. To me it's a non issue.
Full bluepring will fix the lugs. Fix the primary extraction. And make perfect alignments between parts. These action can shoot zeros with proper cartridges and barrels tuning loads. Can be just as accurate as BR actions personslly I never thought I would ever say this.
But I don't think the full monty blueprint is worth it on a 700. Just fix the 2 problem areas and be done. Money is the issue. Here's why. Full custom action around 1400. Full monty blueprint 700. That's a big difference. The leftover 700 can be a proof research barrel. Or chassis or McMillan. Here is the solution. All those mid price actions that are 700 to 850 in price. They are all you need for most builds. Straight strong accurate and better resale value. Sure it's not the full custom with every bell and whistle but your 700 bucks can buy all kinds of bells and whistles. Send me some of it and see. I never could find where the bells went on my actions.
Shep
 
Your 7 mag action is not gonna feed with a Nosler case unless you work on the feed lips and ramp. If your gonna do a Nosler you need the RUM action. If a Nosler case is what you want I would just sell the gun and start with the right action it will be less money in the end.
Be aware though these new RR 700 actions have zero primary extraction ask me how I know.
If you have an old 700 it will make a fine nosler, mine did! See my previous post. Allan
 
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