How Tightly Should Suppressors and Adaptors Be Screwed Onto Barrels?

[biednick]

Unless the manufacturer says to do something different I torque whatever's threaded onto the barrel to 30 ft*lb and rocksett it on. Whatever's on the thread is there semipermanently. There's no reason to be swapping muzzle devices frequently and if you want to get the can on and off quickly there's dozens of QD systems to pick from. There's no sense in risking a $1200 tube because you might want to change something someday and don't want to put a little effort in to do so.

What changes are you thinking you'd want to make in the field?

 

[jedimonkey]

Barrel threads on both ends "Nickel Anti-Seize".

 

[Marplot]

Of you're running a qd device, I'd loctite the muzzle device on the same way you would with a brake. Torque to a warm fuzzy value that makes you confident. As far as direct threads, I never go more than a firm hand tight and check often.

Be sure that you use the blue loctite. I used RED Loctite and had to heat up to about 550 degrees to get it loosed!

 

[TRG65]

suppressor hand tight no anti-seize. brake adaptor as tight as I can get it with a wrench

 

[HandgunHTR]

Unless the manufacturer says to do something different I torque whatever's threaded onto the barrel to 30 ft*lb and rocksett it on. Whatever's on the thread is there semipermanently. There's no reason to be swapping muzzle devices frequently and if you want to get the can on and off quickly there's dozens of QD systems to pick from. There's no sense in risking a $1200 tube because you might want to change something someday and don't want to put a little effort in to do so.

What changes are you thinking you'd want to make in the field?

I use the same method for muzzle devices (torque to 30 ft-lbs and rocksett).

All but one of my cans are DT, however, and the method I use is the following. Screw it on until it stops. Back it off 1/4 turn. Get a good grip and "snap" it into place. I have never had one come loose and I don't use anti-seize.