How Many Times Can I Expect To Reload Factory Brass

[skipglo]

I'm good on the tracking. Shot a doe at 100 yds with eld m right behind the shoulder this year. No blood. Hit her just right to where some of the insides blew out the exit hole. Thank goodness she was only 30 yds away in the pines. Utter internal devastation found upon cleaning. Head shot might have worked better in this instance. Don't have it in me to try yet. Not enough trigger time.

Your honesty is refreshing...all it takes is time my friend....and your attitude will get you there. The 153 gr reference I made was for Stammster for his PRC. You won't go wrong with your 143 choice! Good luck and good shooting.

 

[30BR]

That's the catch. Probably won't anneal. Got enough wrapped up in getting started and I did my best not to get the cheapest hardware (not the most expensive either).

DJ's Brass will anneal for you for a very reasonable fee and he has super fast turnaround times. (djsbrass.com) For casual use. I'd suggest annealing after every 3rd firing.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

all above comments are ok and give you some idea of what to expect : all brass is not created equal and each batch has its own qualities and how one handles there brass. There is a difference in brass quality and lot quality and by cartridge. Lapura, Peterson, Nosler, IMI, Norma , Rem & WIN etc etc etc. Hunting guns I don't anneal like I do for my target / F-class / benchguns. It does add to the life of the brass along with neck tension and or using bushing dies. I will anneal my hunting rounds when needed. The biggest factor is setting up the die and the shell holder ( again all shell holders are not created the same, may be for the same cartridge but the milling will be different ) enough so to make a difference in shoulder bump , set up has a lot to do with handling / loading of the brass. I keep my shell holder with that set of dies together. Its cheap insurance . A difference of .0010 " here and then .0005 there ++++ all adds up, Consistency is the name of the game . Keep good notes on your brass numbers, batches etc etc.

 

[Ol' Red]

You will cut the neck cracking by annealing. I loose my primer pocket long before my necks split. To each there own.

Mike, I was surprised to get as many loadings as I did. I was always too lazy or anneal. Most of that brass is still in my recycle bin. I have new brass now and have started to anneal.

 

[WadeM]

I am loading for a 6.5 CM using Lapua brass. On the 5th firing, I start to get some necks splitting. I also noticed that groups started to open up. I have just started to anneal my brass. I used a DIY design off you- tube and built my own annealer for $62.55 Canadian with parts from China plus a few screws and bits of plywood that I already had. My 6.5 CM likes 43.1 g of H4350 and the 143 ELD-Xs. I am getting around 2660 fps with that load at 20 thousands off the lands.

 

[Ga6570]

No problem. I had to look it up to make sure Hornady didn't just introduce a 157 ELD-X in 6.5, because that would be awesome for a PRC.

Good luck reloading. Attention to detail is important. Take and keep good notes. Double check everything.

Bump shoulder 0.002" and you'll stay away from case head separation. Don't push your brass too hard and you'll save the primer pockets. Annealing might make for more accurate brass, but also addresses split necks after 5-6 firings.

H4350 is your ticket at < 2650 fps max with that 20" bbl.

yes a 6.5 157 eld-x would be spectacular for the PRC!!!.
maybe we should start sending in those suggestions…
barnes said they were working on a heavier LRX in 6.5, thats been several years now.

as far as OPs question. im starting the annealing game. as with brass availability being crap, im wanting to extend the life of my brass in the CM and PRC. im looking forward to getting 12-15 reloads on each brass if i can!! - time will tell.

 

[DR Ray]

I've almost got all the tools and components needed to start reloading.

Shooting a Tikka T3x Ctr in 6.5 CM with a 20 inch barrel. I have once fired Black Hills brass that had 157 gr Hornady ELD M on it. Have about 300 pieces of 1x brass.

Plan on FL resizing and bumping shoulders 2 thousandths using a redding type s bushing die. Have 143 gr ELD X projectiles and H4350

Not looking for crazy velocity mostly because I don't have enough experience to recognize pressure signs and want to be safe.

I'm hoping to get north of 2,600 fps. Goal is to have something I can deer hunt with and have fun at the range where we have 900 yards of options. Reasonable velocity, low es, and .75 moa (only because I know I can't shoot less than this).

If I can get anywhere close to the Black Hills factory rounds I've been shooting I will be more than pleased. Prior to this I have never shot more than 100 yards on paper. Took this new rifle out and was able to hit steel at 800 yards somewhere around a 10 inch group. Got me hooked.

Been reading this forum for a couple of months now and it's a wealth of knowledge. Will look here again as I go along this process where any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Once your cases start to show signs such as cracks or continually need full length re-sizing, throw them away. You don't want case separation! This action will depend on how "hot" you reload.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

quiet texan : great video a very nice refresh course, thanks over time one forgets and takes for granted a lot.