How do you carry your drop charts for quick access?

[Sendero_Man]

here is what I did for my .243 AI.

I made the chart in Exbal and opened it in Excel.
I have it laminated and store it in my Eagle stock pack.

did different colors for the different elevation revolutions of my NF turret.
have it on a 20 moa NF base.
I know my zero is on tier 4 of my NF.


0 to 150 is negative revolution
200 (my zero) to 650 is first revolution.
700 to 950 is second
1000 goes into 3rd.

 

[7mmstwuser]

MOA vs. Inches or clicks.

Sendero Man

This is where I run into problems. I need help understanding MOA! This chart that you have looks nice, but how do you make the calculations to clicks fast enough to still make the shot.
Because the way that I understand MOA is at 100 yards on standard 1/4 inch click scope 4 clicks equal 1 MOA or 1 inch change. At 200 yard 4 clicks equals to 1 1/4 inch change and 300 yards 4 clicks equals 1 1/2 inch change and so on every 100 yard increment the 4 clicks essentially moves 1/4 inch more. Is this correct?
I guess with trying to make all the changes in my head I get confused to easily jumping back and forth between MOA and clicks. Can you build a drop chart that shows how many click for each different yardage. I have no idea about drop charts or how to create them. It would save me a lot of leg work if I could figure out how to make one and trust it totally.
As for now I just go out at known yardages and shoot and log all the shots and the amount of adjustments necessary to move to each different yardages form my zero (which is 300 yards) and just write it in my log book and when I get back home I just type it up on a chart, laminate it and keep it in my eagle stock pack as well.
As for windage I use the drop charts because they are not usually as much of a change as elavation. The only problem is that they are usually one that I've found on the internet and not off some program.
Which programs would any of you recomend?
KQguy sorry I don't mean to jack your post or seem that way but have some of the same problems as you as well.

K Q guy


Most of the time I Start out with an 22 250 .

If it one of the Days where the Yotes Huld up out of Range 300 yards our over.

That is when I bring out the 7 MM STW .

Useing the 7 MM STW you do knot need much of an Chart .

That is what Works for Me

Redbone

Redbone,
Which grain bullets do you use for the STW and do you have a good drop chart already built that I might be able to get from you?
I use 160 grain sierra HPBT that seems pretty flat shooting but I want to go up on grain bullet to 180 Berger VLD. Do you have anything for these bullets already worked up.
The load I have for the 160 seems to do the job but I have recently become obsessed in trying something bigger. I guess that is why you might have read some of the other post that I have on trying to build a 338. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks and again sorry KQguy. I guess if it gets to bad I can just start my own post. I just started typing here and couldn't stop.

 

[Sendero_Man]

7mmstw...

You are off on your calculations...

4 clicks moves 1 MOA (1 inch ) not 1/4 inch.

If your scope is 1/4 moa per click, than 4 clicks = 1 MOA (1 inch )

1 MOA = close to 1 inch at 100 yards

so, that =
2 at 200
3 at 300
4 at 400
5 at 500

and etc.

According to 500 yards on my chart = 5.5 moa and 2 moa wind drift... assuming I have a 10MPH cross wind from 3 or 9 o'clock.

So, I would dial in 5.5 MOA or 22 clicks on my scope. 1 click = 1/4 MOA.

for wind, I dial 2 moa or 8 clicks.

My 243 AI drops 5.5 at 500 which is 5.5 x 5 (for 500 yards) = 27.5 inches of drop

and the wind is 2 x 5 = 10 inches of drift.

To try and explain, 1 MOA at 100 = 10 inches at 1000. In theory, if your rifle shots 1 MOA at 100 ( 1 inch group) it should shoot 10 inch group at 1000 yards.

Yes, I can set up a drop chart in clicks too. here is what it would be for elevation on my 243 AI.

RANGE Elevation Windage
(yd) 1/4MOA 1/4MOA
0 0.00 0.00
50 1.00 1.00
100 -3.00 1.00
150 -2.00 2.00
200 0.00 3.00
250 3.00 4.00
300 6.00 5.00
350 10.00 5.00
400 14.00 6.00
450 18.00 7.00
500 22.00 8.00
550 27.00 9.00
600 31.00 10.00
650 36.00 11.00
700 41.00 12.00
750 47.00 13.00
800 52.00 14.00
850 58.00 15.00
900 63.00 16.00
950 70.00 17.00
1000 76.00 18.00

I use and would recommend NF Exbal or the original version of Exbal. I use the NF (Nightforce) version because I run a NF scope and it has their reticles in it.

Hope this helps out... let me know PM AND EMAIL SENT !!!!

 

[Ridge Runner]

I laminate it, punch a hole in TDC and one in each corner at the bottom, I then run a zip tie through the hole in the top and the forearm sling swivel, another zip tie goes around the bottom through the holes and around the sling.
This way when the rifle is on the bipod or shouldered with the sling hanging down I can use it for reference.
My chart is in MOA for elev. and windage, set at 1 mph and just multiply for each mph over that.
RR

 

[KQguy]

7mmstwuser,don't worry about it,no problem.I am here for the same reason's as you and alot of the other people on this board,to learn and share information.I have been asking alot of questions too,I have learned a ton of information in the last few weeks thanks to this board and everyone here.
KQguy

 

[KQguy]

I think I decided to laminate some drop charts and velcro them to my rangefinder,that way when I range my target,I can just flip over my range finder and see how many clicks I have to adjust.By using velcro,I can easily change charts depending on wich bullet I will be shooting,and I don't have to worry about it falling off if it get's wet like I would with tape.

 

[7mmstwuser]

Sendero_Man

Pm sent you should have my home email adress and thanks again.



KQguy thanks for being so helpful and understanding too. This is the only way any of us can learn anyting new is ask the questions.

 

[Sendero_Man]

7mmstw...

you have an inbound email with 2 attachments...

enjoy. shoot them in at home and let me know....

good luck

 

[albertakid]

I transfer my dop chart to my turrets via white electricians tape and a waterproof pen that way it is turn and burn I go 50 yard increments out to 400 and 25 after that works good if you hunt in similar elevations through out a hunt wouldn't be so handy if the elevation changed greatly

Jordan

 

[Michael Eichele]

I print my charts for the elevation I will be hunting as well as the average temprature. Of course these are only used as a quick reference. Time and battaries permitting, I will use the hand held.

 

[johnnyk]

I print it out but only use yardage (50yd incr), drop (in), drop (moa) wind drift (in), wind drift (moa) (wind set at 10mph). I laminate this card, usually 3x5", and slip it under the elastic cartridge carrier on the butt of the rifle. JohnnyK.

 

[petenz]

I tape one out to 500 to my stock with 100 200 250 300 350 400 450 475 500 and then I have a much more extensive laminated one in my rangefinder case

 

[sscoyote]

The picture in this article here is the system i use--

Long Range Coyotes: A Custom AR-15 And The Little Scope That Could

I've just altered it a bit lately by not putting the decimal points in unless i go beyond a 1-digit reference number. Always range,elevation,windage-no headers needed. I also put addtl. reticle-rangefinding or turret adjustments in a Butler Creek Blizzard-style objective cover, by disassembling it, putting it on a thin piece of cardboard, and reinstalling it all. When the caps are popped it all comes up so i can see everything at a glance.

 

[stiff neck]

I use JBM ballistic calculator to calculate data for my charts. I print out 5 or 6 different charts, each one for different temperatures or elevations etc. I transfer the info to an Excel spreadsheet and print out a copy to tape to my stock. During cooler months I use one particular chart, during the summer I swap it out for a chart with higher temps. I can always tote along spare charts in a pocket if I expect conditions to change. However, I mostly only shoot this 223 out to 550 or less, so slight temp variations are not a big deal.

Here's my chart from Excel.

The first column shows the distance in yards. The second column shows a modified MOA, more user friendly in my opinion. My scope is calibrated in 1/8th inch clicks at 100 yards. If my chart says 1.2 MOA, that means 10 clicks. 1.7 MOA is 15 clicks. 2 MOA is 16 clicks, etc. Works quicker for me rather than some decimal point that you have to convert in your head anyways. The third column is the number of clicks. The fourth column is inches of drop so I can visualize if I want to. Fifth column is windage clicks @10mph.

I "laminate" it with clear wide packing tape on top to protect it from moisture. On the bottom I use two-sided "permanent" tape. It sticks to my stocks very well, never had one peel off yet. I place it under the scope so I can see it better without having to move the rifle much or at all. Don't put your chart on your buttstock or you'll have to completely remove your head and look down while turning your rifle, a waste of movement.

I also tape the same chart to the underside of my rangefinder. After ranging a critter, I simply turn the rangefinder to view the underside. The chart is right there in my hands and I read off the MOA I need to dial in. That way I don't even have to look at the chart on my stock. You have to range long targets anyways, so why not just put the chart on your rangefinder? Make it easy for yourself.

I also make an abreviated round chart for the inside of the rear scope cap for quick and dirty adjustments. Again, all charts are "laminated" on the top with clear wide packaging tape, and attached on the bottom with double sided permanent scotch type tape. Never had one even start to peel up yet. It is removable, it just takes some work, and it won't damage your paint job either.