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Hornady Versus Redding dies

I will use anything other than hornady I have a lot of Redding with no issues also I get probably 6-7 dies a year with a case stuck in them it's always a hornady die they are just not very smooth compared to the rest good luck
 
Why do you want to avoid bushing dies? Just curious. I decided to give the Hornady bushing dies a try and I'm very happy so far. I've only used redding standard type dies a couple times and my results were no different than the cheap RCBS jobbies.

But yeah right now I'm using Hornady bushing die to FL size and forster ultra mic seater. They're both made well, are effective and the price was great. I'm still in load development so I can't say exactly what my groups are going to look like but so far it's looking preddy handsome. Can't really speak to the comparable reddings but I'd encourage you to try bushing dies. BIG reason for this: When you're trying to get very precise resizing of the body for exact repeatable headspace this usually involves multiple trips through the press. For me about 20 percent spring back for one reason or another, then I run those through again, occasionally a third time. (tips are welcome, different lube is on the shopping list.) If I was doing that with a standard die the necks would be beyond trashed.
 
When using bushing dies, one has to go all the way with reloading, meaning one has to measure and record the wall thickness of your cartridges. The bushing sizes the neck from the outside, so that means the inside diameter will change with the wall thickness. Yes, different size bushings will accommodate this IF there is no variance within each lot of cases you are reloading. If the wall thickness varies from side to side, then it has to be turned down to create a uniform wall thickness. Once one starts to turn the material off the outside, Hornady suggest to only turn down to the point of only seeing about 2/3 to 3/4 of the neck being cut around the circumference. The reason is if you continue advancing the depth of cut to where it is a clean cut around the whole circumference, there is a good chance one has turned down the thickness too much to where the wall thickness is on the thin side or too thin.
When a case is initially made at the manufacturer, they start with the amount of material that is needed to make the final dimension. If the process is out of adjustment and creates an eccentric cartridge, being thicker on one side than the other, then the thin side ends up being thinner than it was meant to be.
Also if the walls are not uniform, any die will force the resultant inside diameter to be off center if the final sizing is from the outside.
There are some that will discard non-concentric shells for the eccentricity has a tendency to occur through the entire length so if the neck is fixed, then the inside diameter would not be concentric with the cavity inside the total cartridge case.
Information to think about as possibilities,
Best Regards
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
I'm curious....what calibers are you looking for? I might be able to point you in the right die-rection for some good used dies.
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared

I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
If you get a chance check out the Mightyarmory.com. If they have your size dies.
At this point in time these dies are the best I've used. They don't overwork the case body or neck. Run out is 0.005 or better (with my Zero press)
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
Depends what you're end game is. Shooting competition? Hunting? Long Range? If your shooting to win then anything that can make your loads more consistent is important. I try to buy the standard Forster dies for everything, but have also had great results with Redding, RCBS, etc. I don't have any Hornady dies. I don't use bushings , don't turn necks, etc. But I don't shoot competitively. Below are two groups shot from my bone stock .308 R700 with 20" barrel using Forster FL dies. Bullet is an AMAX 178GR. at 100 and 800 yards. 5 shots each off a bipod prone. This is plenty good for my purposes.YMMV.
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Waiting for the used Hornady dies to be listed for sale here.
I have seen no big issue or problems caused shooting ammo loaded with Hornady dies.
Me either. I use a lanolin based lube so maybe that's why I've never had all the sticking issues I've seen in this thread? I shoot for fun and PRS type matches so no 1000 yard bench rest stuff for me. Maybe then I could see a difference?
 
Maybe you could if you used better dies? Maybe more accurate ammo and better dies?
Sounds like you assume I'm not getting good groups as is? Not shooting from a bench rest set up there are a lot of variables that make a greater difference than dies IMO. That said, if you want to loan me a set of "good" dies in 6BR, 6 GT or 6 Creedmoor I'll be happy to compare the results.
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
Don't even waste your time with Hornady anything! Especially dies! Get the match or competition set. Get the full set just in case. Remember that the newest tech in precision is anneal, full size and mandrel the neck to .001 under bullet size.
 
If you were local to me, I would do that. BTW, what size groups do you get at 100 yards off of the bench?
I never shoot of a bench because I don't have one. I shoot off the ground with bipod and bag. I've never shot any zeros, a few high 1s and plenty of 2s and 3s at 100 yards when I have a good load and I do my part. At distance on good days where wind is constant and not twitchy 1/2 moa or less usually not an issue. But I'm not going to say I can shoot 1/4 MOA all day at 1000 yards or any distance, I can't. Besides all the other variables I'm not that good of shot. I'm fully aware that I'm the weak link in the chain.
 
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