I am looking to get a custom built rifle. I live in Pennsylvania, so I want a rifle that I can use to hunt the woods of PA and use to go out west and hunt Elk, mule deer, and pronghorn eventually as well. I figured it would be better to have one nice custom rifle that I shoot all the time and get comfortable with instead of a bunch of factory rifles with different calibers for different things. I am having trouble on deciding what caliber to go with. I want to be able to reach out and touch an elk at 800 yards or less. I am thinking 7mm Rem Mag, 300 WSM, or 270 WSM. I like the ability to go to any store and pick up ammo if I need to. I have reloading equipment, but just like factory ammo as a backup. Are the custom actions worth the money or should I just stick with a factory Rem 700 action and have work done to it?
Help with Custom Build
- Thread starter jnagel32
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Welcome to LRH! Hello from Cambria County! What part of PA are you from?
You are right on track to go with one nice custom rifle rather than several factory rifles. I would highly recommend you go with a custom action. After you buy a Rem 700 action and have it squared up you're going to spend close to the same amount of money anyways.
As far as the cartridge that's more of a personal preference than anything else. Of the three you listed I would personally go with the 300wsm for its all around versatility to handle anything up to elk and low recoil... but lots of guys would say the same thing for the 7 rem mag.
Good luck and report back with what you decide!
As far as the cartridge that's more of a personal preference than anything else. Of the three you listed I would personally go with the 300wsm for its all around versatility to handle anything up to elk and low recoil... but lots of guys would say the same thing for the 7 rem mag.
Good luck and report back with what you decide!
snowpro440
Well-Known Member
You could do a nice custom rifle with a healthy budget. What would your budget be like ? For elk I would go with the 300WSM.
I would go custom action for sure. You will never regret it.
Tooley Orion, Kelby Atlas, Stiller Predator, TAC 300 etc
Go with the 300 WSM also. You can get the Barnes 169 TTSX at over 3150 easy for most smaller game and then go to the 180s or 210s for larger. Plus it has super long barrel life.
Tooley Orion, Kelby Atlas, Stiller Predator, TAC 300 etc
Go with the 300 WSM also. You can get the Barnes 169 TTSX at over 3150 easy for most smaller game and then go to the 180s or 210s for larger. Plus it has super long barrel life.
My next custom will likely be very close to the rifle you are thinking about. Not sure how much you like your rifles to weigh but I like to keep them on the lighter side for carrying through the mountains. A 300 wsm on a custom action with a 25" #3 contour fluted barrel, a light stock and the right scope would make for about an 8.5 lbs rifle... great elk medicine out to 800 yds.
Built a 300 WM on a Borden Timberline action this past winter. 26" Brux #3 no flutes, Mcmillan Game Scout, jewel trigger, Holland brake, PTG BM with WYatt extended box topped with a NF 5-20X56 SHV. Finishes at 10 lbs 2 oz. Shoots the 215's into tiny groups at 3000 fps and holds under half MOA out to 700 yds if I do my part. I was worried about the thin barrel; but those worries soon went away. I was done load development in 12 rounds.
I like your idea. I'd like a lighter rifle as well, but I'm also worried about the recoil. I am on a bit of a budget. What is the best budget minded custom action out there?I've read past posts where guys did group buys for Stiller actions. Does Stiller still do this and is there any group buys coming up?
bowkill02
Well-Known Member
i would keep recol in mind when looking at a light weigth 300wsm. i have a semi custom 300wsm at 7.5lb, bare rifle, and the recoil is at the peak of my limits. maybe consider a brake?
I'm definitely going with a brake. I think I'm set on a PTG blueprinted short action, PTG aluminum BDL drop plate bottom metal, Timney trigger, and a Boyd's Prairie hunter stock. I'm thinking krieger barrel in a remington varmint contour with straight flutes and a Vais muzzle brake, but I'm not sure about the barrel yet. Was thinking of going with Talley 20moa rail. Do the talley fixed rings work with the picatinny base? Thoughts?
eshorebwhntr
Well-Known Member
One rule of thumb to remember is that a light rifle has the advantage of being easy to carry, after that every advantage goes to a heavy rifle.
To me a nice balance in weight is around a 9-10 pound rifle with scope. They carry nicely and lay pretty still when you need them to.
Of the calibers you listed I would go 1. 7 Mag 2. 300 WSM 3. 270 WSM 7 Mag gets the edge because of brass availability, factory ammo availability, mild recoil and good ballistics. However, the 300 WSM is a good choice as well.
Considerations to keep in mind with the actions. The cost of a trued R700 vs a custom is close. With the customs you can get integral scope rails and recoil lugs which are stronger and better in my opinion. My vote would be for a Defiance Deviant Hunter.
I have had Vias brakes in the past. I now prefer a Holland Radial Baffle or Holland Quick Discharge. Does the job and more pleasant to shoot prone.
I've shot barrels from Lilja, Hart, Krieger, and Bartlien. Frankly, they were all great and I love all of them. For what you are going with I would get a #5 contour (Lilja, Hart, Krieger....3B Bartlien). In my opinion they accomplish the balance in weight nicely and is my favorite contour. All mine are straight fluted. If 30 cal go 1-10 twist, if 7mm 1-9 twist. This will stabilize just about any bullet out there for you.
I can't comment directly on your question concerning Talley rings. I prefer a 20 moa canted picatinny rail and rings. It helps with getting the eye relief perfect and adds strength and rigidity to the action.
Good luck with your build.
To me a nice balance in weight is around a 9-10 pound rifle with scope. They carry nicely and lay pretty still when you need them to.
Of the calibers you listed I would go 1. 7 Mag 2. 300 WSM 3. 270 WSM 7 Mag gets the edge because of brass availability, factory ammo availability, mild recoil and good ballistics. However, the 300 WSM is a good choice as well.
Considerations to keep in mind with the actions. The cost of a trued R700 vs a custom is close. With the customs you can get integral scope rails and recoil lugs which are stronger and better in my opinion. My vote would be for a Defiance Deviant Hunter.
I have had Vias brakes in the past. I now prefer a Holland Radial Baffle or Holland Quick Discharge. Does the job and more pleasant to shoot prone.
I've shot barrels from Lilja, Hart, Krieger, and Bartlien. Frankly, they were all great and I love all of them. For what you are going with I would get a #5 contour (Lilja, Hart, Krieger....3B Bartlien). In my opinion they accomplish the balance in weight nicely and is my favorite contour. All mine are straight fluted. If 30 cal go 1-10 twist, if 7mm 1-9 twist. This will stabilize just about any bullet out there for you.
I can't comment directly on your question concerning Talley rings. I prefer a 20 moa canted picatinny rail and rings. It helps with getting the eye relief perfect and adds strength and rigidity to the action.
Good luck with your build.
So I decided on .300 WSM. I've purchased blueprinted Rem 700 action and drop plate bottom metal, which I prefer the look of and this is a hunting rifle. I'm torn between what contour to go with. I plan on going with Krieger and I want fluting, but I'm not sure if I should go with a #5 or Rem Varmint contour. What are the pros and cons of the two other than the .5 lb weight difference?
eshorebwhntr
Well-Known Member
As far as accuracy is concerned there won't be any difference with either. The #5 will be lighter and easier to pack. The Rem Varmit will be heavier to carry, lay a little steadier, not have as much muzzle jump, and absorb recoil slightly better. That being said you likely wouldn't be able to tell much difference between the two but it's still probably there.
Recoil comes from 2 places. The gas from powder igniting and accelerating a bullet from rest to MV. The brake can eliminate a lot from the gas side of it. Your shoulder and the gun take the rest from the bullet half.
Recoil comes from 2 places. The gas from powder igniting and accelerating a bullet from rest to MV. The brake can eliminate a lot from the gas side of it. Your shoulder and the gun take the rest from the bullet half.
