Help me pick a ML

[westcliffe01]

One warning about the TC's is to check the bore for tight spots where they fit the sights to the barrel. It seems like they allow a lot of interference and it deforms the bore in both places. Mine definitely has that issue and I have been considering casting a lead lap and lapping the barrel to improve it. I can't shoot iron sights worth a ****, so I wish one had the option to leave the sights off.

Another thing that might have been improved since I bought mine is the breech plug. Mine has a full thread and if you overtighten it just a tiny bit it can be absolute hell to get back off (as in using a barrel vice and a real socket and torque wrench). Forget about the silly wrench that they supply with the gun, it has the propensity to draw blood every time I use it. Use a good quality anti seize on the threads and the rear flange of the breech plug too, preferably something with moly or tungsten disulphide in it. That helps prevent galling (I have a stainless steel version).

If you use Blackhorn 209, which I also recommend, then do not use the special "low power" primers like the 777 version. Blackhorn 209 needs a good strong primer to ignite it. Otherwise you risk the change of a large number of squibs. I switched from 777 to BH 209 and had a ton of the 777 primers left over so I started using them, only to find that ignition was very unreliable.

 

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One warning about the TC's is to check the bore for tight spots where they fit the sights to the barrel. It seems like they allow a lot of interference and it deforms the bore in both places. Mine definitely has that issue and I have been considering casting a lead lap and lapping the barrel to improve it. I can't shoot iron sights worth a ****, so I wish one had the option to leave the sights off.

Another thing that might have been improved since I bought mine is the breech plug. Mine has a full thread and if you overtighten it just a tiny bit it can be absolute hell to get back off (as in using a barrel vice and a real socket and torque wrench). Forget about the silly wrench that they supply with the gun, it has the propensity to draw blood every time I use it. Use a good quality anti seize on the threads and the rear flange of the breech plug too, preferably something with moly or tungsten disulphide in it. That helps prevent galling (I have a stainless steel version).

If you use Blackhorn 209, which I also recommend, then do not use the special "low power" primers like the 777 version. Blackhorn 209 needs a good strong primer to ignite it. Otherwise you risk the change of a large number of squibs. I switched from 777 to BH 209 and had a ton of the 777 primers left over so I started using them, only to find that ignition was very unreliable.

If you don't mind, which T/C do you have where the sights have deformed a barrel? Having owned more than an arm's load of T/C muzzleloaders, I've never came across that issue. I use the T/C, T7 breech plug grease and never have a stuck breech plug.

I've used BH209 from the time I could get my hands on it. Dedicated muzzleloader primers will NOT ignite it reliably. They have a greatly reduced charge, specifically designed for shooting pellets. Regular shotgun 209 primers are used by some with good results but, they are NOT recommended for cold weather and can be unreliable in extreme cold. On the Blackhorn209 web page, they suggest the CCI209M or Federal 209A magnum primers. Once a shooter starts using BH209 (if his rifle is capable of shooting it), rarely do they make a change back.

Blackhorn 209

 

[westcliffe01]

I have a stainless Omega with the synthetic monte carlo style stock. I didn't say the breech plug was stuck, it just took considerably more torque to undo than to tighten. I used the spark plug style wrench that is supplied in the cleaning kit to tighten it and the cross pin that you have to twist is not more than 3" long, so one can't put much torque on it in the first place. The breech plug issue may be specific to the stainless models since that material is notorious for galling in any threaded application, but here the binding was at the rear flange, not the thread.

I have been working on a different project where galling between stainless parts was also an issue and tungsten disulphide was one of the solutions that looked very promising, so that is what I have used in mine ever since, but of course I am also very careful how I tighten it too.

 

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I have a stainless Omega with the synthetic monte carlo style stock. I didn't say the breech plug was stuck, it just took considerably more torque to undo than to tighten. I used the spark plug style wrench that is supplied in the cleaning kit to tighten it and the cross pin that you have to twist is not more than 3" long, so one can't put much torque on it in the first place. The breech plug issue may be specific to the stainless models since that material is notorious for galling in any threaded application, but here the binding was at the rear flange, not the thread.

I have been working on a different project where galling between stainless parts was also an issue and tungsten disulphide was one of the solutions that looked very promising, so that is what I have used in mine ever since, but of course I am also very careful how I tighten it too.

All my Encores have been stainless and I've never had a problem with them. I have "0" problems with my current SS 209x50 Pro Hunter but, that rifle's never had anything other than BH209 shot through it. I will admit though, that prior to BH209 coming out and shooting pellets or loose T7 or Pyro, I preferred to use anti-seize over the normal breech plug grease. When Knight's first came out and I could get one, it was sometimes ridiculously hard getting the plug out at times and I always used anti-seize.

I was shooting about 4,000 rounds a year out of my SS Encores and when using the proper grease plug, never had an issue with the breech plug, other than just plain shooting them out. I'll have to check out the tungsten disulphide.......

 

[45omega]

JB Bore Paste will take care of the bore. Start by oiling the bore. Leave the plug in and on a tight patch, smear JB on it and run down and out 25 times, repeat with a new JB smeared patch. Clean bore with solvent of your choice and clean the JB off the breech plug, reassemble and you will definitely feel it load more consistently.
J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors

Try white teflon tape on your breech plug. One layer wrapped around the threads then chase the threads with your fingernail. No mess with antisieze. I never had a supplied tool for my Omega's as they were purchased used. A socket on an extension works great.

Take the sights off and get some filler screws. I have yet to see a TC bore deformed where they installed the sights?

 

[westcliffe01]

If you watch any of the bore lapping videos, you will see that it is not at all unusual to deform a barrel when press fitting sights or by drilling with a blunt drill prior to tapping. If the lap is cast in the barrel it is an accurate fit and sensitivity to detecting imperfections is much higher than with a patch with JB paste on it.

I noticed the tight spots when trying to load Hornady FPB bullets which have a thin copper skirt and no sabot. These bullets are a tight fit in the bore and quite unforgiving of any tight spots. I can load powerbelt bullets with no problem, but they do not fit nearly as tight in the bore as the FPB's. I never got the FPB's to shoot either...

 

[45omega]

If TC bores were deformed by them installing sites I think we would have heard of it by now. If in fact you think your bore is tight in spots because of them installing sites mail it back.

TC bores are known to be tight and JB takes care of the issue. Many shooters can confirm this.

Have a good day

 

[westcliffe01]

LAPPING A BARREL - YouTube

 

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If TC bores were deformed by them installing sites I think we would have heard of it by now. If in fact you think your bore is tight in spots because of them installing sites mail it back.

TC bores are known to be tight and JB takes care of the issue. Many shooters can confirm this.

Have a good day

Still waiting a response from Mike on the issue. If anyone has heard of it or had issues with it, Mike will be the guy. I've shot T/C since the Encore first came out and haven't had a single barrel problem or, one that wouldn't shoot extremely accurate. I'm NOT saying barrels can't be deformed but, if it were the case, every muzzleloader would have the identical problem.

 

[westcliffe01]

TC, as an organization no longer exists. The custom shop was closed. The Icon was discontinued. Not just discontinued, but the factory refuses to work on your Icon if it is out of warranty or supply parts. My Icon barrel came from the factory full of chatter marks. I bought it used from a dealer in NY, sight unseen, so my own fault. I tried to arrange to send it to the factory to have the barrel and stock replaced at my cost and the service people refused. I have a transcript of the "chat" posted here on this forum. I was shocked to say the least. I am now on my own to reverse engineer and sort out my paperweight. Of course none of the barrel makers has a breech configuration for the Icon.

So sorry, but try to get any service out of TC today ? I think you will be surprised.

 

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Brought the issue of "deforming" a barrel when drilling for sights and/or scope mounts to a number of "smiths".

The response from some very seasoned smiths ALL indicate that, ..."ONLY if its drilled to deep, making the wall to thin or drilled completely through." Those are the only circumstances that any had ever run into this issue. If its not drilled to the point of drilling through or, drilled through, not a single smith has identified an issue.

 

[speedmaster97]

I like my TC omega SS, it has DNZ mount an 6x18 Redfield scope. I'm shooting 245 Barnes an 78grs.weighted BH 209. My barrel was tight but after 100 rounds it smoothed out, it's a keeper.

 

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Has anybody had their hands on the LHR Redemption ML?

LHR Sporting Arms Home

They're total JUNK. If I were given one, I'd get rid of it and not even shoot it. I had my first chance to examine two (2) different rifles today. Its no wonder you don't see any great target pictures from them. That hinge with both barrels open, moved at least 1/4" at the end of the barrels. At least 3/16" movement with the barrels closed. Sorry but I wouldn't even consider one......

 

[FrontierGander]

hows the trigger on them at least?