Help me analyse my load data 6.5 4S

[HobieH3]

Very interesting...

 

[Mikecr]

Depends on your chamber clearances & build. If you cause Norma brass (and other soft brands) to expand into a lot of yielding, then it's not going to spring back enough to clear the chamber.

 

[tdot]

Only been reloading for a few years and about to start my first (and second) wildcat load development, so been doing way too much online reading lately. So take this as regurgitated info, not fact.

It appears that more then a few people have found that a given velocity for a given bullet is the accuracy node. So if I understand this theory correctly then once you find the accuracy node while shooting new brass, then adjusting powder charge in the fireformed brass to match that FPS of the node, should yield similar results.

I wasnt taking good enough notes for my load developments on my 308, 300WM and 260 to confirm this 100%, but in retrospect it generally seemed to work, enough that I will continue to try and prove it with my 2 new Wildcats.

 

[L.Sherm]

It appears that more then a few people have found that a given velocity for a given bullet is the accuracy node.

There is alot of times a lower node and a upper node, take the 30 Nosler for instance theres one around 3040 with the 215 Berger and one up near 3100 but the Nosler brass wont take it but I'm confident the ADG will.

 

[tdot]

There is alot of times a lower node and a upper node, take the 30 Nosler for instance theres one around 3040 with the 215 Berger and one up near 3100 but the Nosler brass wont take it but I'm confident the ADG will.

You're right. Sorry, I should have said "an" accuracy node, not "the" accuracy node.

From my crap memory and notes I'm pretty sure a that a new upper node opened up with fireformed brass in my 300WM. That chamber was quite abit larger then the unfired brass. Of course, that could have been from improved reloading techniques, better equipment, etc. Its tough to say with soooo many variables.

 

[L.Sherm]

You're right. Sorry, I should have said "an" accuracy node, not "the" accuracy node.

From my crap memory and notes I'm pretty sure a that a new upper node opened up with fireformed brass in my 300WM. That chamber was quite abit larger then the unfired brass. Of course, that could have been from improved reloading techniques, better equipment, etc. Its tough to say with soooo many variables.

But just keep in mind every thing kinda being equall, powders, barrel length, reamer specs etc

 

[Doug Herold]

How many total rounds you got through the pipe???
Put 150 through it. Do your charge weight testing. Find your node. Fine tune with seating deprh.
Mine jumped about 150 fps from "new" to "broke -in". It's finely settled down and shooting consistently. Until the barrel is broke in you are just chasing holes.

 

[HobieH3]

Are these WILDCATS needing fire forming or factory headstamped brass for which you're trying to get a better chamber fit?
Will you then necksize only, or get a custom full size forming die sized to fired brass?

Is all this for squeezing out the last 0.1.MOA or 50 FPS for the 900yd shot or does it apply to the "regular" guy who wants to save bucks reloading his 223 PRS plinker but would like his 270 to reach out to 500 or so...

 

[Nowoolies]

G'day folks
I've shot professionally for just over 40 years now and have always rolled my own
I use a Ruger M77 mk2 .22/250 as my main rifle for small and light skinned game , and I use one of two .300 win mags one is custom and one is a CZ 550 Lux ,for big game , was using 180 and 200 grn projectiles,have switched to 212 grn ELD-X now , with no issues with Hornady brass , I also use a custom .308 32 inch barrel with 165 Sgk with Hornady brass , no issues .
I use Hornady brass with the .22/250 and have up to 25 loads per case ,I push 4000 fps with a 52 grn SMK no pressure signs at all this has been the load for this rifle for around 20 years an yes Im on my third barrel
I don't have any issues with Hornady brass on any of my other rifles
Sorry BUT !! I Why do I always see people hanging heaps on Hornady brass it really doesn't make any sense to me , what am I missing someone please explain why people are having issues with them
Cheers
Paul

 

[Mikecr]

Are these WILDCATS needing fire forming or factory headstamped brass for which you're trying to get a better chamber fit?
Will you then necksize only, or get a custom full size forming die sized to fired brass?

In a sense it's all wildcats,, as it's all fire formed into local cartridges by our best dies (our chambers).
So when you form your 260Rem, in your chamber, it's not the same as a 260 formed in my chamber. There is no way I could suggest a best load for your 260 based on a best load found for my 260. As well, you can't hang a hat on results stumbled into while forming brass, because it will not likely be the same once brass is fully formed. This is not just a matter of capacity, or muzzle velocities. The pressure curve changes with different brass/chamber fit. And the pressure curve is a pretty dominate attribute, affecting many matters of timing & burn consistencies.

All cartridges are neck sized.
Most cartridges, by design, will also have to be body sized. That's most, not all.
To reach fire formed condition, which is final forming of your cartridge, it is useful to partial neck size only -until getting there (quickly as possible). It's logical then to powder develop with the sizing that will ultimately be required/desired and under your consistent management of it.
Does it makes sense to manage a tremendous amount of sizing, that functions to keep a cartridge far from it's final formed condition? IMO, hell no..
If I ran with a cartridge/chamber that required FL sizing, and constant trimming & annealing & brass replacements then I'd....wait a minute. I would never run with a condition like that. It's my choice. I don't ever have to.
But either way, I would always use custom sizing dies, to manage the cartridge nearest it's final form, which is in a sense -a wildcat.

 

[krinkansas]

I'm probably nutz, but I'm not wasting barrel life by shooting virgin brass just to be forming it. I buy 500 rounds of good brass (lapua, Norma, or Nosler) find a node using the ladder method, then use the Berger method of selecting the right "jump". I've got excellent loads with 30 rounds down the tube (after proper breakin). When all the brass is once fired (500 rounds) I bump the should back .002 and see what the original load does. I've very rarely had to change the load. Keep in mind though...I'm perfectly happy with a 1/2 moa gun. Once I get there, I stop fiddling. Most of my guns shoot .3 MOA though. I do have my guns built with great actions, barrels and stock though. They really should shoot well considering the cost.

 

[trucraft]

Ok so took some of the good advice given to me in this thread and went out this morning and shot the last of my virgin brass.
Glad I did as I have a solid seating depth for my Berger's.
Struggling with my ES but hope the 1x fired brass might help ?