Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Is there a reason for using loading for just the 180 grain SST bullets? And a reason for being locked into 4064. I have had really good accuracy results with W748 in the .308 and Nosler partitions. Just curious about the reason you are using specific powder and specific heads? For me one of the greatest benefits for reloading is the flexibility it affords the reloader.
That's what I bought to start with I just bought some 155gr hornady amax bullets today but I already had bought the powder And want to use what I have before I sink more money into components beings I just dropped $400 bucks on press and other loading tools, will probably go to Varget next thoughIs there a reason for using loading for just the 180 grain SST bullets? And a reason for being locked into 4064. I have had really good accuracy results with W748 in the .308 and Nosler partitions. Just curious about the reason you are using specific powder and specific heads? For me one of the greatest benefits for reloading is the flexibility it affords the reloader.
I'd like to suggest that before you spend more money that you slow down just a little bit. Do a lot more reading and asking questions, gain some knowledge before you purchase materials that are not going to work for you. I would start by buying two or three good manuals and read them and study them first. Study the load data and what is most compatible with the calibers, loads and bullets that you would like to try. Is there anyone that you know who can help to get you started? Is there a local gun club where you might go to find someone who might be able to give you some direction? You're in a good place in this forum to get information, however if you had someone who was right there to give you some direction it would a whole lot easier and a lot less expensive. Where are you getting your equipment and components from. I'm only suggesting this because I hate to see you spending money and not getting what you need. I have been reloading for 55+ years and I am still learning new stuff every time I come onto this site.
I am buying components at a few different places academy sports for hornady bullets, local pawn shop that keeps a decent selection of powder, and Cabela's for my first brass purchase of sig 50ct for $20. I just finished my first 20 rounds of 308 with 155gr hornady amax with the min. Charge of accurate 4064 according to the load date included with my Lee pacesetter dies and cci 200 primers haven't shot them yet but they look good and I took time to measure every charge rather than trusting the powder measure even after running 2 hoppers of powder through it to bleed of the static like the instructions said to. I also trimmed every new case and chamfered/deburred before starting
Great that sounds really good. Where did you start out with your load, is it a max load or something under the maximum listed load. I usually will start out at least one grain under the max when trying out new components like brass, bullets and powder. What do you have for a powder measure, and scale? Do you have a powder trickler, only asking because I don't know what you have for a powder measure. I like CCI primers, of if I can find them I like Federal primers as well. You ought not have to trim your brass after every reload, not necessary at all. How are you doing with the primer pockets and flash hole burrs. I use a Lyman pocket uniformer (large) $20 and an RCBS flash hole deburring tool, 30 caliber pilot for .308, $14. If you don't have these I suggest getting them to make your primer pockets uniform and square to the base of the case and to remove the burr on the inside of the flash hole inside of your cases. Depending on your brass you will find that the primer pockets are not all the same depth and oftentimes not square to the base of the case. Also will find that there is a large burr on the inside of the case where the drill or punch that is used to make the flash hole broke through. Once the cases have been prepped with both tools, it is a one time deal. I'd also like to suggest that you run through the classifieds on the forum as there are some pretty good deals on them for used reloading tools, plus sometimes you can find some good deals on reloading tools. I will check them frequently looking for tools or for bullets. Sometimes you will find someone who has sold a rifle and changed calibers totally and you can buy a really large lot, with various bullet weights and dies pretty reasonable. Really glad that you are reading and studying the manuals. This is an expensive proposition, however I can tell you that I have been reloading and harvesting everything that I have harvested with ammunition that I have reloaded and tailored for my rifles.
Started at the min charge of 42.6gn I am using the Lee balance scale and perfect powder measure that came with my Lee challenger kit. But just ordered hornady digital scale and hornady powder trickler. Thanks for the advise on flash hole And primer pocket I wasn't aware of that I do have a primer pocket cleaner though that was included in the kit.
There is a difference between a "primer pocket cleaner" and a primer "pocket uniformer" tool. I bought the Lyman primer pocket uniformer tool because the cutter can be removed from the handle and placed in a hand drill, it's a lot easier to do than by hand. And....you will see the difference in the depths of the primer pockets as well has how out of square they are to the base. You're buying good stuff, it is just very expensive when you start out. That is the reason that I suggested that you study the manuals, and the forum to get ideas about what you ought to have and only have to buy it once. If you can find what you want/need used it's a whole lot less expensive.
