Help identifying 30-06 IMP rifle

What does a crush fit cause or prevent?

If you have a crush fit it means that when the firing pin falls on the primer the case won't move forward in the chamber so all of your pressure will be used to blow the shoulder forward. You can accomplish the same thing by seating the bullet so that it jams slightly into the lands. I've always used stout loads when fire forming. You can also coat the case head with a teeny amount of sizing wax to prevent the bolt face from getting brass stains.
 
A set of Lee (I know - not necessarily equivalent to the highly respected names) dies for standard 30/06 with the collet neck sizer and dead length bullet seater will handle neck sizing and seating needs - and do it very well at that. I like the Lee Ultimate set for this since it will also then include the parent full length die and a factory crimp die. The crimp die can be used on both the AI and the parent but the FL is limited to the parent only.

Then, in addition, A simple Full Length 30/06 Improved or a 30/06 Improved Body die will handle things for when you begin to start chambering a bit more tightly than you like ...

I've used the above for my 260AI with exceptional accuracy results and the cost for this approach can be less than $100-$150 for dies in total ... it also will allow you to load the parent cartridge for future fireforming if/when you need to.

That being said - custom dies built off a case fully formed to your chamber are a "sure thing" - Note: it can take a couple of firings before the case is "fully formed" to your chamber ... this is the reason why some will start with a "stout" load when fireforming.
 
A set of Lee (I know - not necessarily equivalent to the highly respected names) dies for standard 30/06 with the collet neck sizer and dead length bullet seater will handle neck sizing and seating needs - and do it very well at that. I like the Lee Ultimate set for this since it will also then include the parent full length die and a factory crimp die. The crimp die can be used on both the AI and the parent but the FL is limited to the parent only.

Then, in addition, A simple Full Length 30/06 Improved or a 30/06 Improved Body die will handle things for when you begin to start chambering a bit more tightly than you like ...

I've used the above for my 260AI with exceptional accuracy results and the cost for this approach can be less than $100-$150 for dies in total ... it also will allow you to load the parent cartridge for future fireforming if/when you need to.

That being said - custom dies built off a case fully formed to your chamber are a "sure thing" - Note: it can take a couple of firings before the case is "fully formed" to your chamber ... this is the reason why some will start with a "stout" load when fireforming.


If someone like Redding confirms it's .30-06AI with a 35 or 40 deg shoulder, I'd just order one of their off the shelf sets for that cartridge instead of ordering them special made to the cartridge case, unless they say it's different enough to merit the special attention.
 
Is there a certain for or anything to reach out to hornady or Redding to hade the cases checked or just shoot them a general email?
 
If someone like Redding confirms it's .30-06AI with a 35 or 40 deg shoulder, I'd just order one of their off the shelf sets for that cartridge instead of ordering them special made to the cartridge case, unless they say it's different enough to merit the special attention.

If you send a fired case to Redding, they will tell you exactly what it is and which of their dies to use ... or at least send you in the right direction.

Great people - in fact, I spoke with them today to get a replacement decapping rod. When I asked him what I owe for it he said "First one is on us!" ... glad to see customer service like this exists ... plus I love the 260 AI dies I have that I use in conjunction with the Lee as I mentioned above ...
 
Is there a certain for or anything to reach out to hornady or Redding to hade the cases checked or just shoot them a general email?
Given the Covid shut down they both ( Hornady & Redding) went through, I would try both email, and telephone. I got Redding on the phone about a month ago for some parts for an Instant Indicator. They weren't taking orders over the phone for that item . So the tech guy gave me part numbers and I had to order through one of their distributors/dealers. Dealer said it would take 6 weeks for the parts to ship. I don't know about Hornady, but I would assume similar.
So, if you have a local gunsmith that can check and measure a fired case or two, That might be the quicker way to go.
 
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From working with wild cats for a long time I would suggest that you use NEW cases to start off with. Use a middle of the road powder charge for the cheapest bullet you can find and fire them to form your cases. Great thing about the AI cambering is the case hardly ever grows length wise after the first firing if you do not bump the shoulder back too much.
 
I apologize I don't know why I didn't think of this before, too much stuff going on I guess. One thing you could do next time you go to the range is rub a black magic marker all over the neck and shoulder area on a round. Then for the best results I remove the bolt and slide the round into the bolt and insert back in. That should give you a good rub mark on the contact area.
 
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