Handloading impact on accuracy with a load that a rifle doesn’t like? And average behaviour of factory rifles with factory ammo

[Philward]

Yes it's very likely that you can make an improvement, different powder, seating depth, primer even, and using cases that have been fired in your rifle. I bought some ammo with Nosler Partition bullets in them for 270 Winchester and they shot all over the place. Bought same 150g Partition bullets and loaded them myself for my rifle and they shot 1-1.25" groups.

 

[cabelasken]

I have not had very good luck with factory loads in my rifles that have factory rounds available. I've found that mono's work best for me and with the right combination, I typically obtain 100 to 150 FPS improvement over factory ammo. I have 3 customs and 2 semi customs in my arsenal and I must admit today's factory rifles Perform almost as well. The last 4 I've purchased all can print sub MOA groups and two are right around 1/2 MOA like my customs. Now, I prefer to load my own and find it not only rewarding but economical as well.

 

[simone]

I always do 100 rounds for break-in. Using 5 fired then clean x6. 10 fired then clean x7. Scubbed well each cleaning. Then, do a couple of foulers after break-in just prior to checking out your new load workup. I wait 5 minutes between my 5 shot groups, Using a barrel cooler to help. If I'm on track, this usually gets me close to where I need to be. Then I start fine tuning after I find a promising group. It can take some time, and money and sometimes I have to change components if things go haywire. But I never change components in the middle of a specific test string. Skews the results. And down the rabbit hole I go........

What barrel cooler do u suggest? It seems that the typical air flow in the bore can involuntarily fowl the chamber and can cool down the barrel unevenly

 

[jrock]

I typically can get a factory rifle to shoot 3/4 MOA or better. I try for 1/2MOA. However with the cost of factory ammo, on can spend su much money on trying to see if something shoots that they would be better off building a rifle with a solid barrel. Typically, top of the line barrels shoot a wider range of ammo a whole lot better.
To aid accuracy, I always do basic gunsmithing improments which can make a 1.5 MOA load shoot about 5/8 MOA. With that type of improments it's easy for reloads to take it to the next level. There are a lot of things one can do to make a gun shoot well, but I prefer to have a gun that shoots well from the beginning.

 

[jrock]

I too limit groups to 3 or 5 shots and then cool with a barrel cooler. For longer strings of fire. I cool between shots, depending on if conditions are stable.

 

[C-130 Dude]

What barrel cooler do u suggest? It seems that the typical air flow in the bore can involuntarily fowl the chamber and can cool down the barrel unevenly

I use this. I modded it a bit and made a chamber insert and added a hose. Works OK. I've seen similar work just as good. It's basically an air mattress or raft pump. Most any would do.

BUYMAX Electric Air Pump for Inflatables, Rechargeable Battery Air Pump for Air Mattress, Pool Floats, Air Bed, Portable Inflator/Deflator Pump with 3 Nozzles - USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZL56KKK/

 

[simone]

I typically can get a factory rifle to shoot 3/4 MOA or better. I try for 1/2MOA. However with the cost of factory ammo, on can spend su much money on trying to see if something shoots that they would be better off building a rifle with a solid barrel. Typically, top of the line barrels shoot a wider range of ammo a whole lot better.
To aid accuracy, I always do basic gunsmithing improments which can make a 1.5 MOA load shoot about 5/8 MOA. With that type of improments it's easy for reloads to take it to the next level. There are a lot of things one can do to make a gun shoot well, but I prefer to have a gun that shoots well from the beginning.

What are these basic improvements?

 

[jrock]

Free float the barrel, bed the recoil lug or better yet, the whole action. It's amazing how those two things can improve a rifles accuracy. Installing pillars is also a good idea. Most factory rifles now have aluminum pillars or some form of them.

 

[Old Rooster]

Everyone is giving great advice!I would also suggest writing EVERY Thing down!Everything you do should have a paper trail so you can go back to notes.
Also make small changes at a time.Use youtube and find your distance to lands and make small changes at a time.
Keep in contact and let everyone know the results,and keep fouling out of the barrel.A copper and carbon free barrel will shoot way better than one that is heavily fouled.

 

[mongo4567]

I've always found best gains when switching to a bullet the gun liked. When I have problems it is usually that the bullet weight is marginal for the specific twist rate. I have gotten considerable changes when switching powders: but it often seems to be about a velocity range for that barrel. I've had cases when the barrel was just not going to shoot to the performance I wanted.

 

[emp1953]

The producer of factory ammo has no idea what the characteristics of any given rifle or chamber are. For the most part they are loading cannelure bullets, seat to the cannelure and crimp. When I go to the range I have a set up for my reloading press that fits into my trailer hitch receiver. I take a bullet pulling die, bullet seating die, and a dial micrometer. I've had instances where other shooters were shooting factory ammo .270win Nosler partitions and had 1.5" groups at 100yds all day long. I had a dummy .270 round that I loaded into their rifle and got a measurement for OAL and used the bullet puller die and backed the bullets out then put them back until I reached the length found with the dummy round minus 0.020 Those groups immediately tightened up to 0.75 center to center. For one rifle the factory ammo was 0.055 off the lands. With my reloads once I find an accuracy node, I will use my trailer hitch set up to adjust bullet seating depth until I have the optimal seating depth for that rifle. that rifle only. All measurements and conditions get entered into a log book for later reference.

 

[simone]

The producer of factory ammo has no idea what the characteristics of any given rifle or chamber are. For the most part they are loading cannelure bullets, seat to the cannelure and crimp. When I go to the range I have a set up for my reloading press that fits into my trailer hitch receiver. I take a bullet pulling die, bullet seating die, and a dial micrometer. I've had instances where other shooters were shooting factory ammo .270win Nosler partitions and had 1.5" groups at 100yds all day long. I had a dummy .270 round that I loaded into their rifle and got a measurement for OAL and used the bullet puller die and backed the bullets out then put them back until I reached the length found with the dummy round minus 0.20 Those groups immediately tightened up to 0.75 center to center. For one rifle the factory ammo was 0.55 off the lands. With my reloads once I find an accuracy node, I will use my trailer hitch set up to adjust bullet seating depth until I have the optimal seating depth for that rifle. that rifle. All measurements and conditions get entered into a log book for later reference.

So someone says accuracy doesn't improve dramatically and, if the rifle doesn't like the bullet, that's it. Many others say that playing with seating depth and powder charge things change significantly. Bedding the action is something i will do since i am going to swap the stock. I am just not so sure to do so because after the stock is bedded for my specific action i don't think I am still in time to just buy a new rifle if the accuracy is not up to my standards. I took a day off of work mainly to go testing these ammo again and a 20 mph wind totally unpredictably showed up

 

[memtb]

So someone says accuracy doesn't improve dramatically and, if the rifle doesn't like the bullet, that's it. Many others say that playing with seating depth and powder charge things change significantly. Bedding the action is something i will do since i am going to swap the stock. I am just not so sure to do so because after the stock is bedded for my specific action i don't think I am still in time to just buy a new rifle if the accuracy is not up to my standards. I took a day off of work mainly to go testing these ammo again and a 20 mph wind totally unpredictably showed up

A bedding suggestion…..for what it's worth!

Consider full-length bedding…..if ya don't like it, you can always go back and float it later!

I'm a firm believer in full-length bedding……especially on hunting rifles. When I had my hunting rifle built I had the option, float or full-length.

My thoughts are, if a rifle is to be used in the field and has the potential of getting any debris/foreign matter, snow or water between the barrel and the stock…..these things can change the barrel harmonics. In the case of snow/water getting into the barrel channel, and then freezing, it can created a pressure point…. likely changing you POI and possibly negatively affect your group sizes!

Just some thoughts from a paranoid hunter! memtb

 

[cajun]

Well it's possible. But sometimes a rifle just doesnt like a bullet. Only one way to find out lol. If your not setup to reload already might be better off using some other ammo.