Glock 10mm bear loads

[CoachChris]

FWIW - I contacted Underwood about grizzly defense ammo choice for the 10mm. They recommend the 140 Xtreme Penetrators over hard cast bullets due to greater tissue damage.
Caviat - Not looking for a debate over hypothetical ammo choice.

 

[3shooter]

I would use Underwood or Buffalo hard cast in the 200gr to 220gr range and or the Underwood Lehigh 140gr Xtreme Penetrator. I have run all these through both of my Glocks 20's a Gen 3 and Gen 4. I would also consider changing the recoil spring, I run a 22lb recoil spring.

 

[Triple BB]

Seems like I've seen a number of comments about not shooting hard cast bullets in Glock barrels. If you reload, Cutting Edge makes 10mm copper bullets at 190 - 220 grns. For those who say a 10mm won't kill a grizz, in 1995 a guide for Pass Ck Outfitters in the Thorofare killed a sow and three two year old cubs with a 9mm after they charged him and his hunter while gutting an elk. The hunter panicked and dropped his weapon leaving the guide to fight them all. He killed the second to last cub while it was chewing on his thigh which was the only the reason he didn't go to prison. For the non believers, its on record with the G&F office in Cody. I'm still good friends with the guy who did the shooting. He no longer guides, but works in law enforcement...

 

[AKGuide]

I reload both doubletap 200gr cast and cast 200gr Bear tooth bullets to 1200fps using longshot powder. If I were to buy Bear defense ammo I would go with underwood and doubletap. If you roll your own get some bear tooth bullets in 200 grain hard cast gas checks, they are worth the wait. Make sure to slug your barrel and get the bullets sized 0.001" larger then your barrel and leading will not be a problem in the stock barrel. If your worried about leading get a lonewolf or kkm barrel and shoot away. The reason Glock doesn't want cast lead shot out of their barrels is because they will eventually lead up and can cause a pressure spike if not cleaned regularly. If shooting lead don't shoot more than 30 rounds before scrubbing out the lead in a stock barrel and you will be fine.

Reuben

 

[Joe Hooker]

My back-up plan.

 

[Accumark]

Wow what a timely thread. I am in Montana now getting ready to go Elk hunting in Grizzly country. I went through the same dilemma with picking a handgun and load. My choices were Glock 20 or S&W 629 2.5 " barrel. I loaded the Glock with 200gr XTP and the 629 with 300gr XTP's. Shot both and chronographed them. The 10mm was 1240fps with 640ft/lbs. The 44mag was 1000fps with 670ft/lbs. Ended up going with 10MM for the firepower of 15 rds. Hope I don't have to use it to find out how effective it is. Good luck to all and be safe in bear country.

 

[DSheetz]

I'm kind of a fan of a 9 shot 12 ga. slug , 00 , buck alternating them in the extended mag tube . It's been awhile since I read the article on the guide getting killed but believe he had a 10mm and his hunter left him when it took place . If memory serves me he had put his 10mm down a little ways away and was field dressing the clients kill . I have been told that elk season rings the dinner bell for the griz. now.

 

[DSheetz]

The guide I talked to that survived a grizzle attack said he didn't have a clue that the bear was around until it had him down big fast and quiet .

 

[vashooter]

Going to try the Buffalo Bore 220 gr in my Glock. next yr going to Wyoming and will be packing it. Looking for a respectable handload since I have not reloaded in awhile. Do the 10mm Glock prefer any brass brand over another ? Thank you. Ed

IMO, you are better off with a fully supported chamber. Then you can load the 10 to is capability.

 

[GERDES G]

Probably said/mentioned but GLOCK says to NOT use Buffalo Bore ammo. Their barrels do not have a "fully supported chamber". Oddly (or odd to me) they directed me to lone wolf manufacturing for one of their barrels. I have the G23 .40 S&W.
I dont know if you have shot them or not but I can feel the extra punch they pack compered to anything else I have shot through it.
Good Luck with your endeavor(s) and I hope you do not have to use it on a bear other than finishing one off that you were hunting!
G

 

[ajkellerusmc]

check out the grizzly 200 JHP at 1250. Not sure about using a JHP on grizzly defense but they function in both my Glock 20 and 40.

 

[Joe6pack]

Great thread!
I've been looking at a new side arm for bear protection in the Thorofare area of Wyoming as well. I was in the area 3 days after the outfitter was killed in 2018. Many factors exist as to why this happened! 1) gun location when needed 20+ feet away from it's operator at the time of attack
2) gun condition-empty chamber.
3) unfamiliar hunter trying to operate the Glock under stress

I've looked at the G20 and dismissed it because of the power range, good but not great. The reliability problem potential, such as dust, fine trail dust gets into everything. I carry a semi as an edc and when I worked in ranging conditions. Just don't see them for me in a bear protection role.
My ideal sidearm.
1)short bbl, 3" approx,m is a key factor as when your being thrown around by brother bear big guns get difficult to position.

Autos can have a functioning issue when fired at contact distance, law enforcement has dealt with this for years.
Behind thrust into fur and fat may cause malfunctions like down coats can with modern autos.

2)As light and small as possible/practical because it must always be on your person, a boy scout issue...be prepared!

3) 41 mag min....FPE
4) revolvers - because they generally always go bang. Ammo malfunctions don't require 2 hands to clear. The number of shots afforded will likely be 1. Possibly 2. At the start of the fight. This is also likely to be at contact distance fight. Giving up the velocity from a long barrel seems better than trying to properly position a 6" bbl with one hand while being chewed on. Also, double action because your fighting for you r life. Manually working a SA is a lot to remember as bones are crunching. Muscle memory is a factor.

Considerations
1) Redhawk 4" 41 or 44, it's heavy
2) pre lock 629 3" 44 it's heavy
2-a) I own a 657 3" 41, same heavy
3) Reeder GP100 conversion in 41 mag 3-4"
4) taurus tracker in 44 with 4"
And...
5) I've looked at tthe Charter Arms 41 mag pug with 2.5" bbl.....25 oz and am going to handle one. They are not a Ruger or a Smith but they are half the cost and weight and if they are reliable they are worthy of a look.

My 2 cents

 

[WY02K]

People who actually live in grizz country most all agree on one thing. Bring the handgun you are proficient with regardless of what it is chambered in. Most grizzlies in that area are not that huge. The sow that killed the guide last year weighed 250 pounds. Sidenote: revolvers fail as well. Do not drop it on a hard surface, it can turn it into a single shot

 

[esorensen]

Let me begin by saying that I don't own a 10mm. I do shoot hard cast bullets in a .40 S&W HK USP. The 200 gr Beartooth bullets moving at 1000 fps have no issue penetrating bull elk from different angles. The performance keys in cast projectiles come down to a few points.

First is nose profile. A wide flat nose makes and maintains the largest holes. The more pointed the projectile, the smaller the hole. Think of a hole punch for paper, and you get an idea of wound channel configuration. The permanent wound cavity looks like it was bored through an animal with a drill bit. Bone, muscle, whatever, has a caliber sized hole going through it. These are not LR projectiles and BC isn't a concern.

Second is that lubed lead makes less bore friction, so more speed can be had vs a jacketed same weight counterpart. This is good and bad. More speed can and often equals more barrel leading. This is a negative trait. The good news is severalfold. Speed is NOT what makes hard cast penetrate so well. In fact I've seen the opposite. Keeping these square profiled bullets below the speed of sound gets better accuracy and decreased bullet deformation on target, and maintains ridiculous penetration in a very straight wound profile. Hard cast bullets with a gas check will almost wipe any left over lead out of the bore, so its really a win-win. Pointed bullets often exhibit a terminal ballistic yaw. I've yet to see that happen with hard cast. Wound channels are dowel rod straight and consistent shape and size. Whatever trajectory it starts at is where it ends up.

Obtaining the highest velocities like we attempt for in our rifles is not what I've found to be the "best". Finding the heaviest bullet that will stabilize and moving it as accurately as possible around the 1000-1100 fps range is perfect in my opinion and observations. Heavy and slow. This is what I've found to be the penetration key in my experience. If you think of the accurate bullseye type .38 loads and wadcutter bullets, you get an idea of what makes it accurate and how it cuts a hole. The .44 329PD with 280's at 1100 fps I also use is plenty of everything for anything.