Funny y'all should bring up the subject of lapping and (gasp!) bedding. I too have always thought that lapping was essential to a quality job--but then the last time I mounted a Leupold on .243, I used cut-up Coke can pieces for shims on the bases!.
I am something of a mechanical klutz--So I have been dreading having to think about the whole subject. "Self," I said, "shouldn't a set of rings that costs north of $250.00 and designed for a
specific scope model and tube ("dS" is stamped right on the mount) be of close enough tolerances that lapping would not be necessary?
So this morning I ran a Google search on "lapping Talley scope rings". The first thing I came up with on the Talley site were these FAQs:
We do not recommend lapping any of our mounts. Since they are machined, it really eliminates the need to do so. Since the lightweight mounts are horizontally split, you can lap if you would like.
We
highly advise against lapping our steel rings. Since they are a vertically split ring, lapping can knock them out of round.
Our Picatinny rings, although horizontal split, do not need lapped either. They are a match grade ring and are perfectly round when they come off the machine.
Note: If you lap any Talley rings, it will void any return policy since the mounts have been modified.
- Do you recommend the use of Loctite or thread locker?
Using Loctite for the screws going in the receiver is perfectly fine. We recommend using Loctite Blue 242. We do not recommend using Loctite on the ring screws.
Nothing about bedding the
rings was mentioned, but I assume the answer would be the same.
I suspect I will have to bed the Pic rail, however, to the 700 action. It is level, of course with no MOA tilt. Thanks VERY much for you comments as always and best regards.
Russ