ShtrRdy
Well-Known Member
I had a bedding job from a local gunsmith look like that. After i installed the barreled action it worked fine and I didn't have to look at the crappy bedding job.
what did you use for bedding material?.. it looks greatYour bedding looks like this is something he does not specialize in. Typically stock material will need to be removed from the action area to make room for bedding material. Being that I can see the green w/ black webbing stock finish through the bedding in places and it appears that only the tang, front of action and recoil lug was bedded tells me this is not going to be a stress free, full action bedding job. Whoever did this just slapped in some accra glass and called it good enough. I wouldn't trust them to do it again but rather explain that they did a poor job and try to get your money back to have it re-done correctly. A proper bed job falls alot into the prep of the stock prior to the bedding. Here's a photo of one of my pillar bed jobs.
View attachment 81951
I do my own with Devcon and even though I'm an amateur they look much better than that. But I also bought a little 243 that was accurate as all get out, I took it apart and found a bedding job that looked similar to yours, so....
Free float as in barrel free float ? Not touching the stock at all ?That doesn't look too great. But if it is for a savage usually you want to free float the rear tang.
That is really nice work. Are the pillars contoured, or flat ? Thinking about re doing my rifle, with pillars. How much stock material should I have taken out ?Your bedding looks like this is something he does not specialize in. Typically stock material will need to be removed from the action area to make room for bedding material. Being that I can see the green w/ black webbing stock finish through the bedding in places and it appears that only the tang, front of action and recoil lug was bedded tells me this is not going to be a stress free, full action bedding job. Whoever did this just slapped in some accra glass and called it good enough. I wouldn't trust them to do it again but rather explain that they did a poor job and try to get your money back to have it re-done correctly. A proper bed job falls alot into the prep of the stock prior to the bedding. Here's a photo of one of my pillar bed jobs.
View attachment 81951
That's right. Because the rear action screw is not at the end of the action, free-floating the tang eliminates any "bridging" interference. I use the same tape thickness under the tang as on the barrel. A business card will pass freely between the tang and stock, and from the barrel-nut out the fore-end. I can't recall where I found that tidbit, but it was from one of the million or so savage fanatic forums. I do know it has worked very well for me.Free float as in barrel free float ? Not touching the stock at all ?
Gregg
Removing the old bedding in the mill is the best way but someone with a good hand could theoretically do it with a dremel tool. I'd be happy to help if you'd like it re-bedded after your hunting season.
Not the barrel but the rear tang of the action. I do it because I don't think it makes a difference but there is an argument for Savages that they have better harmonics without the rear tang touching. But after posting that statement I noticed the tapped hole in the rear indicating it was probably a 700...Free float as in barrel free float ? Not touching the stock at all ?
Gregg
Kevin,
When you bed the lug do you tape off around the outer edge? Also I've seen some guys will only bad the back of the leg with tape around the outer edge, do you bed the whole lug, if so with or without tape around the edge?
Tom