Fireforming .280 AI from .280 Remington brass or .270 Win brass?

[Rich Coyle]

You talking about the hydroforming dies? My smith uses them, and likes them. Says they're a mess, so you need to have a setup outside or in a garage where the water can splash or drip out on the floor. Other than that, he likes them.

I use Hornady hydro-form dies. I set them up to match the headspace of the chamber. They come out of the die about like they come out of the chamber. Really nice.

 

[RevJim]

I have used factory loads in Ackley chambers just fine "when they were set up to have a crush fit ( 4 to 6 thousands) ( .257 Roberts, 30-06, .375 H&H, 35 Whelen, 280 Remington all into Ackley cut chambers). Now, in some rifles just "to be sure" I didn't have my case heads stretch, I pulled the bullets out some, then reseated them to "jam" into the rifling when the bolt closed. Kept the powder charges the same. Perfect fireformed cases. There are other methods, but this one will always work...now, the hydro forming dies are a pretty neat idea! Your choice.

 

[Alibiiv]

You won't overpressure because you're forming to a larger diameter chamber, if anything you will drop chamber pressures. The only issue is that your brass stretches so much, and when pushed to that high a pressures, it expands too rapidly, and can cause the brass to rupture. Every time brass cracks open in your chamber and all the pressure is concentrated into one spot, that is like putting a tiny little plasma torch to the wall of your chamber, and will permanently scar it.

It's your call man, your rifle, your money, your method. Go with whichever method you see has more validity for your needs, and whichever methods works best for you. There's more than 1 way to skin a wildcat. The only wrong way, is the way that causes an issue.

Thanks for that explanation, the brass stretching from the high pressures makes a lot of sense, I get it. I also thank all the reloaders who have given me their opinions and experiences. I really appreciate the posts and information that is given on this forum.

 

[Alibiiv]

I always use "cream of wheat loads" for fire forming. I don't own any semi autos. But in my bolt guns and single shots I do.I read a thread on here a long time ago that described it. Pretty straight forward and works well. Like others have said it will not set the final dimensions but it will get it close and is a lot less stressful on the brass. I always use new reloading brass. Prime, load 3/4 load of powder, fill remaining case capacity with cream of wheat and cap with bees wax. Just what I do but i have never had any issues and firearm clean up is a breeze. This is just my method that I adapted from that thread. As an added bonus it takes very little cream of wheat for this process so plenty left over for many breakfast to come.

I have heard of the cream of wheat process, wasn't quite sure of the process, however it seems simple enough to do and really not that much of an expense. Thanks for the response

 

[Alibiiv]

I use Hornady hydro-form dies. I set them up to match the headspace of the chamber. They come out of the die about like they come out of the chamber. Really nice.

Where did you get the hydro forming dies from? Also how messy are they to use? I'm in the basement on a loading bench with all of my other loading equipment on it. I could cover everything with plastic if I really had to, just curious about the mess made from the water being forced into the case. This process seems to be the way to go?

 

[Alibiiv]

It'll work fine, may take 2 firings to fully form. I wouldn't use 06 brass as necks are too short. If you use factory ammo, you may not get brass that will last very long, unless you can find Norma-cased 280 loads.

If you're gonna start from scratch, I'd start with RWS .270 brass for longer life. Other option would be Nosler a.i., good brass life and simple, "buy once, cry once".

I have a lot of .270 brass and also have a set of RCBS .280 Remington dies.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Where did you get the hydro forming dies from? Also how messy are they to use? I'm in the basement on a loading bench with all of my other loading equipment on it. I could cover everything with plastic if I really had to, just curious about the mess made from the water being forced into the case. This process seems to be the way to go?

From Ben at Hornady. I don't find them messy. The water generally stays in the case and has to be dumped back into the pan. The pan has about a quart of water.

I install a spent primer in the case and dip it into the pan. When the bubbles stop I check to make sure it's full. If full I install it in the die with case lube around the neck. I neck them down from 7mm to 6.5 mm.

The photo has a 9.3X64 Brenneke; which is what I used originally. Now I hydro-from Lapua 7 Rem Mag brass in Hornady hydro-form dies.

 

[Longtooth32]

Is there a reason you are not using factory 280 AI Brass?

Seems to save bullets, powder and barrel life

https://shop.nosler.com/nosler-brass/noslercustom-brass-280-ack-imp-50-ct.html

 

[KyCarl]

Well that brass is $1.77 each and out of stock?

 

[Longtooth32]

No flaming please....

But even Hornady makes 280AI brass

https://www.natchezss.com/hornady-unprimed-brass-rifle-cartridge-cases-280-ackley-imp-50-ct.html

 

[Alibiiv]

No flaming please....

But even Hornady makes 280AI brass

https://www.natchezss.com/hornady-unprimed-brass-rifle-cartridge-cases-280-ackley-imp-50-ct.html

Thanks for the links to the brass. I'll have to add up the costs for dies and hydro forming vs simply buying I'm primed brass

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thanks for the links to the brass. I'll have to add up the costs for dies and hydro forming vs simply buying I'm primed brass

If you buy factory .280 AI brass you don't need the hydroforming die.

 

[Longtooth32]

$37.08 for fifty at Powder Valley

Still Hornady...

4 boxes in stock

https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/pro...-improved&query_type_caliber-range-sort-by=or

 

[Longtooth32]

Graf's has Nosler in stock for $76.99

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/11697