Yes but I can tell you many times it doesn't do anything so I know it's not always needed. There's times when there is no resistance and it turns freely but I still do it to be safe.
Finer Points of Reloading
- Thread starter jstanton
- Start date
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High-end brass, not necessary to cut flash holes. I pretty much don't do it anymore anyway, it doesn't really make a readable difference, on target or the numbers. A wasted procedure, even though it's done one time only.
I use to uniform primer pockets and uniform flash holes. After hearing many many top level F-Class shooters say it's a waste of time, I stopped doing both. I haven't noticed a difference in my shooting or consistency. However, if it makes you feel good and gives you confidence, keep doing it.
I only do it because that's how I was taught. I don't necessarily believe in it one way or the other. If I can eliminate a step in case prep I would gladly do it!
My flash hole tool, is only used to open up the flash hole, in some SRP brass I use.
Check out a mount made by wiser Precision it gets the magneto speed bayonet off the barrel
I think everyone learns from "long winded" responses. Thank you
You only uniform your flash hole once on your initial brass preparation. After that you can clean it should you want but don't cut it again.
Dutch Jennings
Well-Known Member
Many times I've on the verge of getting into reloading also but this thread has once again talked me out of it. So many guys...so many opinions. I put this subject up there with the best way to process a deer and which rifle caliber is the "best." So reloading will have to wait until after I retire when I might have the time to learn the secret sauce to all this mumbo-jumbo.
Didn't see anyone mention "spring back". As brass is fired multiple times, it hardens, and resists movement the dies are imparting. This can be virtually eliminated by annealing properly every reload (neck and shoulder area where the case moves most). This will also affect performance. But, as mentioned above, The shooter has to gain the ability to discern the variation while shooting. Most shooters will not see the difference in neck tension alone, as there are many variables that affect accuracy and precision.
Also as mentioned above, the rabbit hole is deep and complicated. tread only as your pocket book and time allow. It can be all consuming (ask me how I know).
Also as mentioned above, the rabbit hole is deep and complicated. tread only as your pocket book and time allow. It can be all consuming (ask me how I know).
tvarden
Well-Known Member
I Lee factory crimp every round I load.
RuninL8
Well-Known Member
This is one of the most common questions I get from guys that I build rifles for, how far down the rabbit hole do I go with reloading? I think on some level everything thing has been touched on in this thread.
A hornady case/bullet comparator
Also, see about sending a fired
piece of brass to have threaded
Bump brass back .002
(Full length dies will do this)
If you want to mess with neck tension K&M mandrel
AND a chronograph
The magneto is ok, is does do a fine job of reading velocity, however
it changes harmonics in the rifle, if you can afford it a lab radar, that is the way too go.
Everyone else hit on the things that really aren't needed until you start getting into f class shooting.
A hornady case/bullet comparator
Also, see about sending a fired
piece of brass to have threaded
Bump brass back .002
(Full length dies will do this)
If you want to mess with neck tension K&M mandrel
AND a chronograph
The magneto is ok, is does do a fine job of reading velocity, however
it changes harmonics in the rifle, if you can afford it a lab radar, that is the way too go.Everyone else hit on the things that really aren't needed until you start getting into f class shooting.
rem.xp100
Well-Known Member
THIS ^^^^^^
