First shot out of a cold bore will be diffrent. Also freshly cleaned and oiled bores will increase velocity due to reduced friction. This is the reason for fouling shots, to stabilize the string. As metal heats up it expands causing reduced surface contact on the bullet. This is why heating the nut on a stuck bolt will often free it up. There are 2 schools of thought in long range shooting which is determined by how you shoot. Hunters usually only get one or two shots at game so it is better to tune for first shot/cold bore accuracy. Competition shooters start a match by shooting warm up shots and therefore tune to a warm or hot barrel. Few rifles will shot to the same point in both situations. If you are primarily a hunter don't let your barrel heat up to much. 3 to 5 shots then let it cool. If compitition then don't even look at groups untill the barrel is warm. I'm a hunter and this is just my opinion from reasearch I have done. Half inch 100 yd groups would be fine with me regardless of velocity spread. Have you tried a barrel tuner to shrink them down?I've got a TC venture in 243 Win that is giving me fits with ES. Ive ran different powder/bullet/brass/primer combos but this particular rifle has ES of around 150fps(sometimes higher) regardless. Its shoots 1/2moa groups @100y but of course with those ES it would probably string at longer ranges. It will normally start out high and the velocity will decrease with every shot, not always but common. Same powder scale and same chronograph used with diffrent rifles that have low ES. Is there something with the chamber/barrel that could be causing this?
that wouldn't cause velocity change and would cause stringing in his group.Possible the barrel is touching stock as it warms up. Something could be loose... Check action screws and scope mounts, then go from there.
how is your neck tension? That can mess with velocity because it will change pressure. But that would be random not increase as barrel heats.Yes, this is the only rifle I have this issue with. Ive got Nosler brass and Remington brass both new and once fired. Ive ran H4350, superformance and R15 though it with the same results. I ran standard and Mag primers with superformance with no change. Maybe I should try neck sizing only a few pieces of once fired and see what happens. I normally bump .002 with a FL die on fired brass but I have a Lee Neck die laying around somewhere i could try.
here is an analysis of error in different chronos. It is about 2/3rds of the way thru the article but is very interesting. Look for a table.Might be the chronograph, if the barrel was so erratic that it gives you150 es, it shouldn't be sub moa
I think you mean jam minus 20k! You will shorten col by 20k. Some bullets like jump some like jam. Jam will increase pressures significantly. Be careful!!! I have heard Berger bullets like jam, elds like 10k jump and shorter bullets are fine with 20k or more.ES speed has much to do with bullet seating and neck tension
Keep your load!! But start at jam +20k then add 3k until you find 2 rifle nodes (tightest groups) together. Then choose a seating depth. Neck tension can play a part also . Less neck tension for long range. More neck tension for hunting just make sure you are getting the exact seating depth and neck tension so everything is the same
Aaccording to Eric Cortina, a pro shooter, all the best competitors full length size.That's a good idea. Hadnt really thought if test it that way.
I'm using a rcbs fl but I'm going to pull my Lee collet die out and try neck sizing some of the once fired and see what happens.
If this is a new gun it may just need to break in. Some barrels have more tool markes than others. Howa recommend a break in process on my 1500 when I bought it.Have you used a bore scope on it? How many rounds down the pipe? Have you noticed a great deal of fouling? How often do you clean it? If it progressively slows down shot after shot consistently, I'd look at the barrel.
@DJFergus has a great idea. If you find the barrel is extremely rough, you might consider JB bore Paste or fire lapping with David Tubbs kit. Maybe keep shooting it till it stabilizes, go home and without cleaning, shoot another day and ser if it still does the same thing with repeatable velocities. Just some suggestions