The fine raised ring around the firing pin strike is called cratering and is a sign of high pressure. The metal of the primer cup is flowing into the firing pin hole in the bolt. Back off a bit on the powder charge. Try it -1gr and fire a few, then -1/2 gr at a time until the cratering stops. While the 700 action is strong there is no need to tax it every time you pull the trigger. After you hit that load, you'll most likely have to fiddle a bit to hit another accuracy node. Also these magnums are known to erode the throat faster than non magnum calibers. Backing off the load a bit may get more life out of your barrel. You might try a couple of the same loads but without the magnum primers.Only three pieces of brass I have with me. View attachment 333047
Those are "ejector" marks, not extractor. That load appears hot.Only three pieces of brass I have with me. View attachment 333047
It has all the signed of high pressure or over pressures. Maybe I could be a little braver and add more powder to the load. I go to flatten primers and that's it in any action I use. I will take a look at Ty Herring article. Generally I only get about 10 firing from a case before the primer pocket won't hold the primers tight an longer. So I would say I am pushing the case and load to the almost the max at that time.NO ONE should reference primer cratering alone as a high pressure sign. It is simply not a good indicator alone. Grouped with other signals, they can tell a story.
Here is an article written by Ty Herring of Barnes Bullets.
Evaluating Pressure Signs in Reloaded Cartridge Brass « Daily Bulletin
Selection from BARNES BULLETS' Tips, Tools, and Techniques by Ty Herring, Barnes Consumer Service The purpose of this month’s Tip from Barnes is to make you aware of valid pressure signs in most centerfire rifle cartridges so you can keep yourself out of hot water. Following the Barnes Manual...bulletin.accurateshooter.com
Sometimes a particular brand of brass is softer on the head area, and I think Hornady brass is in this group. With ejector marks on the case heads, loading down with that brass would be prudent to me.
I guess you like purchasing a lot of brass that's hard to come by.Just run it. Brass won't last as long, but if I'm hunting with the rifle, I don't care about that. As long as there is not extraction issues, I will run a spicy load for hunting if it is the most accurate and consistent.
While "its simply a hunting load" and if it works for you it's your call, I would keep in mind that you mentioned you shot these at 30 Degrees f. Here in Oregon, I might find myself elk hunting at 25 but mule deer opener in eastern Oregon in might be nearly 90. That much variation with a warm load developed at 30 would worry me.Its simply a hunting load. The hornady brass shoot consitently like this, I did have a load of 66.4 that was just slightly less accurate but not by much. I don't recall if there was ejector marks. The winchester brass I have was roughly 7 grains lighter than the hornady brass, which would mean I can stuff more in the case not by much but some. I did shoot the exact load as I stated above with the winchester brass and there were slight ejector marks. I also bumped it up to 68.2gr and ejector marks were like those in the picture, but the accuracy was not.
X2Alliant data shows this to be a max charge weight with a cup and core bullet I have found with Barnes you have to back off some as they pressure up sooner I would step down into a lower node