Extractor Chewing up Brass-Stiller Predator

[shortgrass]

Using a roll pin in any situation where it will act as a pivot pin isn't the best practice. Try a different roll pin. The hole was drilled for a roll pin, so a solid pin would probably just be a 'slip fit', no friction to hold it in. When using a solid pin that is 'press fit', the pin is usually of 'softer' material than the part with the hole it will be used in.

 

[Crowe284]

Using a roll pin in any situation where it will act as a pivot pin isn't the best practice. Try a different roll pin. The hole was drilled for a roll pin, so a solid pin would probably just be a 'slip fit', no friction to hold it in. When using a solid pin that is 'press fit', the pin is usually of 'softer' material than the part with the hole it will be used in.

I think I'm going to give this a shot. Got nothing to loose.

 

[ShtrRdy]

If you leave out the spring when you install the extractor and pin does it still move?

 

[Crowe284]

If you leave out the spring when you install the extractor and pin does it still move?

I'll try that later on and see. What do you think this might diagnose? Thanks for the input!

 

[ShtrRdy]

If the spring was too long it would end up as a solid stack.

 

[Crowe284]

If the spring was too long it would end up as a solid stack.

Gotcha.

 

[Crowe284]

So I talked to Russ at stiller this morning and told him the issues I was having. The first thing that came to mind for him was that the incorrect counterbore was used during chambering....I was suspicious of that being the case due to the quality of work performed by gap and those they employ, however I am absolutely open to the idea. He next asked me to look at the spring and make sure it had .030 to .040 of travel when depressed with finger, check, spring is good. He asks me to looks to see if there are any rub marks on the extractor that would indicate binding. There are shiny spots on the last 1/4 of the extractor towards case head and around the roll pin hole. I honed the extractor in a very fine stone and reinstalled. Still chewing case rim. Did this three times, same results. So, I'm sitting here staring at the extractor cut out in the bolt and i see something that looks strange. This is a left handed bolt. Imagine you are holding the bolt with the handle and knob pointed straight at your face. On the right hand side of the extractor cut out that transfers the bolt head, there is a distinct wave in the machined groove where the extractor lays. You can see it with your naked eye and feel it with your finger. When laying the extractor in the groove it looks like a small portion of the edge of the extractor disappears on the right hand side where this wave is, as the extractor edge looks to be underneath the edge of the groove. This is my first stiller so I don't know if that "wave" is supposed to be there on not....this is frustrating. I have attached a pic. Kinda hard to see but the little hump or wave in the channel is there. It is absolutely not parallel to the other side.

 

[TwoMore]

when I use the PT& G bolt with the m-16 extractor I counter bore the bolt nose recess to about .745 on the barrel so the extractor can get around the brass lip. Very first one I used did the exact same thing. would actually cut the brass lip upon loading , I could see shiny marks on the end of the extractor, I took the barrel off and took the counter bore from .705 to .745 and been shootin fine every since.

 

[Crowe284]

when I use the PT& G bolt with the m-16 extractor I counter bore the bolt nose recess to about .745 on the barrel so the extractor can get around the brass lip. Very first one I used did the exact same thing. would actually cut the brass lip upon loading , I could see shiny marks on the end of the extractor, I took the barrel off and took the counter bore from .705 to .745 and been shootin fine every since.

Wow....man I hope this isent the case....what a cluster....

 

[TwoMore]

I hope not either, but it wasn't that bad of a cluster. the thing was my go gauge worked fine. it wasn't until I tried brass that it showed up. I guess the go gauge had just enough sideways movement to allow the extractor to get around the lip without hitting the side of the counter-bore and the brass was a tighter sideways fit.. I hope you figure it out and it is simple good luck

 

[Crowe284]

I hope not either, but it wasn't that bad of a cluster. the thing was my go gauge worked fine. it wasn't until I tried brass that it showed up. I guess the go gauge had just enough sideways movement to allow the extractor to get around the lip without hitting the side of the counter-bore and the brass was a tighter sideways fit.. I hope you figure it out and it is simple good luck

Thanks man.

 

[Crowe284]

So, foul weather has me at the house and not work so went to work on the problem. Used a square needle file to straighten out the extractor cut and then honed to a glass finish. Removed some material from both sides of the extractor and then honed them to glass finish as well. Took sharp edges off of extractor with 600 grit and reinstalled extractor. Bang! No more chewed case rims. The extractor jump over the case rim feels normal now as well. The extractor was binding in the cut. Thanks to all who tried to help me figure out what might have been going on. Now, if only my Talley's would get here from optics planet...ordered them two weeks ago only to find out from customer service that they quote, dropped the ball on the order....Still haven't gotten a shipping notice. After all this, I hope she is a one holer to make up for it all!
Adios,
Dusty Crowe

 

[ShtrRdy]

Thanks for the update and explanation Dusty. Hope she works fine going forward.

-- Todd

 

[Edd]

Who woulda thunk it.

The extractor cut was suggested in post #6 but was deemed perfect in post #8.