Do you use your hand loads to get on paper?

megastink

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I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have another system?
 
I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have another system?
You basically answered your own question. IIWY, yes, I would hunt down less expensive ammo (if there is such a thing nowadays and if you can find them). You will still need to use some of your preferred ammo to finalize your scope sight-in. Good luck.
 
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After bore sighting, if you shoot one round at 25yds, adjust, shoot one round at 50yds, adjust and then shoot at 10oyds, you'll easily be "on paper" with only 5 rounds expended. Maybe 10 rounds if you spin the turrets in the wrong direction. lol

It's only the guys who start out at 100yds or more that can't figure out where the bullets are going and shoot up boxes of ammo trying to get on paper.
 
Ya, I use my hand loads. As others have mentioned start short (25 yards). Get the rifle steady on its own (front and rear rest). Then, take your bolt out and look down the barrel and put your desiered poi in the middle of the barrel and adjust scope to meet it. This should get you on at 25, then adjust to dead center. Shoot at 50, then adjust to dead center, then do the same at 100. It should take you 4 or 5 shots to have a good zero and a couple groups to get you a perfect zero. The 5 hand loads cost less than a box of ammo. However, if you can find some cheap factory ammo that works too! Sounds like you will have a sweet rig!
 
Per JohnWess "Get the rifle steady on its own (front and rear rest). Then, take your bolt out and look down the barrel and put your desired poi in the middle of the barrel and adjust scope to meet it."
I found it to be true. I start close @25-30 yards and if I am very close to POA I will make a scope adjustment and move target to 100 yards. But that is just me. 25 to 50 then 100 is good advice. My experience is that once you are on @ 100 the only POA change when changing from handloads or different commercial ammo is only an inch or so.
For your reading fun: https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2015/7/23/how-to-zero-your-scope-with-two-shots/
 
I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have another system?

I never thought much about it....most of our firearms have never had a "factory round" fired in them! So.....I guess the answer is whatever ammo is for the firearms intended use. After all, it only takes a few rounds to zero, using a different bullet will probably not zero identical to the bullet for intended future use......necessitating the "expensive" bullet to be used for zeroing anyway! memtb
 
I always do bore sighting using the "bolt pulled" method, but as I am a "cheap scape" .....I always make my initial shots at 100 yards using a 11x17" target paper, and never have an issue with missed shots! It's a very accurate method, with smaller bore rifles, a bit more difficult when the bore gets larger than 3/8". If you're concerned with missing at 100 with the initial shot.....place a large piece of freezer paper behind your target. That should capture any errant shots.

The only time I've gone less than 100, is when I'm shooting a lever action, and the bolt is somewhat difficult or impractical to remove. Recently, I did just that at 50 yards. Almost missed my freezer paper.....probably should have started @ 25 yards! :D memtb
 
Are people really missing the target completely when sighting in? To me that means your scope is installed very incorrectly because that's a lot of misalignment - as is a significant part of your windage adjustment range lost trying to correct something in the rings or base. If you bore-sight at all you shouldn't be more than a couple inches off at 50 yards, definitely on the paper. I'll admit I cheat a bit and use a big 2x4' piece of cardboard to make sure I don't miss any... but I don't miss any.

I use handloads to sight-in because I chrony every round, so it's more data points to increase sample size. I should be able to get a decent SD regardless of where they hit on the paper.
 
I bore sight first, then load a middle charge and a cheap bullet to sight in with.
For example, my new 7STW/264WM switch barrel, I loaded up cheap 7mm 150gr BT's to sight in the 7STW, and used cheap 6.5mm 140gr BT's to sight in with with the 264WM barrel.
Luckily, POI between barrels was only just under an inch different at 100. Phew! It's always a gamble as to where they're gonna print.

Cheers.
 
I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have

I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have another system?
Both my 300 WM bolt gun and Wilson AR-10 shoot .25" groups BECAUSE of the care I've taken with my hand loads. NONE of my cartidges have a neck runout over .0005". I'm not going to risk firing sub quality ammo damaging all of my efforts, to save a few bucks. Years ago I had Winchester brass with .003" runout in neck thickness.
 
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