Do you use sealer or moisture sealer on your reloads?

Yes the air there is humid. When I was stationed there in GA we operated in the swamps. I think it rained there nearly 300 days a year? Anyways our ammo was exposed constantly to the rain and humidity. However when I loaded my ammo for Alaska I didn't use sealant and it functioned fine. Alaska's weather, and mosquitos, are pretty close to GA's conditions. There's nothing wrong with using sealant, I wouldn't want to use it for long range hunting. But that's a limited area in hunting, especially in the parts of GA I was in. The main concern with sealant for me is forcing it down a firing pin hole while cleaning. It can mix with solvents a create a polymer like substance. That can restrict primer strikes and it tough to get rid of. Just clean boltfaces on any firearm with the boltface facing down while brushing or cleaning. That's what I've done with my EDC pistols/ revolvers and I haven't had any issues.
I was stationed in the Army in AK and went to Ft Benning to shoot in the All Army match. The one thing I never missed in AK but suddenly realized I did was the sound of bullfrogs croaking at night.
 
Sometimes. Depends on what the purpose is of those rounds. Deer hunting rounds, yeah. I use this stuff pictured in the photo.
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Moisture impacting your loads takes time. It's not an instant thing as far as I am aware. If you're going to store ammo then buy humidity control bags instead of applying a product to the round. I don't want to sound like a broken record but I previously posted information about humidity and reloading from Chronoplotter located here " Chronoplotter ".
 
Thanks, I will look up the info from Chronoplotter in time. Maybe i could have been more adamant to my point so now let me say that my concern is about powder handling specifically and not the loaded cartridge. Sealing the area of the case neck where the bullet fits was a question I presented. Some good information on how the moisture content of powder affects velocity is written about in an article published in the August 2011 Precision Shooting magazine.
 
I found a bunch of .270 reloads that I did up many years ago and they turned green with a corrosion-looking film on them, I thought what the heck I will throw them in my wet tumbler and see what happens. They came out sparkling clean, I took them to the range just for giggles.
Not one misfired.
 
matter of personal preference i prefer to seal both primer and neck and use nickle plated brass ]
but thats my preference
 
Pretty wet and humid here in Mississippi and I have never felt the need on anything I've loaded. Not to say it will or won't help. Only round that ever failed me was a factory round, before I started loading my own. It fired, but was very weak.
 
Pretty wet and humid here in Mississippi and I have never felt the need on anything I've loaded. Not to say it will or won't help. Only round that ever failed me was a factory round, before I started loading my own. It fired, but was very weak.
Only issues I've had with a handload weren't moisture related: heavily compressed loads of ball powder with non-magnum primers = hangfires and misfires when it gets super cold outside. Now, even in a .243 or .30-30, if it's compressed ballpowder intended for winter use, it gets a magnum spark plug. No issues since.
 
No...never had a problem yet living on the rainy and humid gulf coastal plains, but if I do, then I'll start sealing.
That's with rifle and pistol. For shotshells, and only buckshot, geese, Turkey, and duck loads, I daub a bit of candle wax on the center of the crimp. Bird and small game loads go naked. 😳
 
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