DIY Carbon fiber barrel?

[Clay Target Guy]

that is just how we did it when I worked in the aerospace industry.

 

[Mram10us]

So, watched the video.
Will "not" using a release agent in the roll-wrap method shown, absolutely prevent de-bonding of the barrel from the wrap?

Cure temperature of the embedded epoxy is only 250 degrees. No idea what the temperature of the barrel will be ahead of the full diameter steel chamber- but given it's turned down to 5/8" (if I understood you correctly) it's going to be waaay hotter than that after a few rounds down the tube. My concerns would be different coefficients of expansion (as he mentioned in the video), high temperatures, and possibility of de-bonding. How well does the material conduct heat away from the barrel? Barrel vibration, harmonics, uneven temperatures... sounds like a challenging environment.

Never seen material pre-impregnated with a heat-cure resin. I've only used liquid resins- which as mentioned are vacuum bagged not only to remove air, but excess resin as too much will weaken the part.

Good luck with it, we're all going to be standing by for the results of the "experiment".

Lots of questions, but i need answers
1. shrink tape removes excess epoxy when wrapped correctly - solved
2. harmonics - we always fight with that. Have to wait till barrel is complete to see
3. expansion - all cf barrels have to deal with this, but not sure of the effects yet.
4. Temperature - how hot does a 7mm get ahead of the chamber after 5 rounds?

 

[Mram10us]

that is just how we did it when I worked in the aerospace industry.

For tubes? What company did you work for and what kind of parts did you build? You might have the exact knowledge needed for this project.

 

[Clay Target Guy]

I worked for Textron
We did the saddle on the tail section of the C130, BAE 146, V22, and several others not to mention all the ones that were aluminum.

 

[Clay Target Guy]

we never used procured anything, we laid up everything in house

 

[Mram10us]

I worked for Textron
We did the saddle on the tail section of the C130, BAE 146, V22, and several others not to mention all the ones that were aluminum.

Kinda familiar with herks

 

[Mram10us]

Finished my first test barrel. Lots of lessons. Outlook is good, however, proof research is safe. I wont be putting them out of business any time soon
1. use lots of epoxy
2. let it cure a day before turning down

Issues to fix:
1. Lines in shrink wrap tape
2. best way to fix a "dry" area
3. turn with single point or use a tool post grinder/sander

 

[Mram10us]

Here is the first one. Still needs the sacrificial brake removed and muzzle turned. Then i need to learn what the best way to polish these up is. Maybe just a clear coat, since they need some uv protection

 

[Mram10us]

Turned down to final od and muzzle turned. Need to clearcoat and put on other brake.

 

[Mram10us]

After clearcoat and just pulled from oven. I'll throw on the real brake tomorrow after the clearcoat has cured

 

[LuvDog]

It never would have occurred to me to even try this... but you have me curious. Post updates after it's been test fired and heated up.

Maybe I'll do something similar to my superlite barrel.

 

[L.Sherm]

Mram10us I admire your willingness to push the limits.

 

[Mram10us]

Mram10us I admire your willingness to push the limits.

Thank you. I have some time so why not figure some of this stuff out. The second barrel is going better than the first. The third will be my new 28 nosler. Need some better weather before they get tested.

 

[tobnpr]

2. best way to fix a "dry" area

This would be the vacuum bagging...distributes resin evenly throughout the part and pulls off any excess.

What's it weigh? What did you leave at the muzzle end in terms of steel length/diameter prior to threading?