How does JB's bore paste rate as a copper fouling remover? I have heard that some people avoid it because it is slightly abrasive. I have been using Bore tech elimantor and I can never seem to get a copper-free patch with the stuff although it may be that I am being fooled by the reaction of the solvent and the brass jag?
copper fouling removal?
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41mag
Well-Known Member
I have used JB's on a couple of old rifles that were not cleaned properly through the years as well as a couple of .22's that just had tons of rounds through them. I would not rcommend it though for general cleaning.
I read the pages (links below)from the 6mmBR site amd picked out what I thought were the top components for me. I liked the idea of the spray on carbon remover but in past experience, it always seemed I ran out of something in a can long before I did a liquid in a bottle. I chose to go with the TM Solution for the carbon and the Butches Bore Shine for the copper. I also keep a bottle of Sweets on hand for the heavy duty cleaning. A small bottle of Kroil is also helpful for an after cleaning oil of the barrel. The stuff will get into places standard oil will never see.
Here are the links :
Bore Brushing--How Much is Too Much?
Bore Cleaning Methods & Products
Another thing I switched to and it has helped, with what your referring to in reguards to false reading on the patches, is a Tipton Ultra Cleaning Jag - Nickel Plated Brass. I have found that this will definately cut down the false reading almost completely. I use 1 3/4" patches, which cover the entire length of the jag so as not to allow contact with the bore. You might have to try different patches with them as they run just a tad bigger in doameter than regular jags. I found that using Pro Shot patches with the nickle plated jags and Tipton patches with the standard brass works just fine. The Tiptons run just a tad thicker, and you can still use them with the nickle plated jag if you just drop down a caliber size. I only use these for .257, .277, and .284 since these are the main calibers I shoot. They are also the highest velocity and seem to foul just a tad quicker.
hope this helps,
I read the pages (links below)from the 6mmBR site amd picked out what I thought were the top components for me. I liked the idea of the spray on carbon remover but in past experience, it always seemed I ran out of something in a can long before I did a liquid in a bottle. I chose to go with the TM Solution for the carbon and the Butches Bore Shine for the copper. I also keep a bottle of Sweets on hand for the heavy duty cleaning. A small bottle of Kroil is also helpful for an after cleaning oil of the barrel. The stuff will get into places standard oil will never see.
Here are the links :
Bore Brushing--How Much is Too Much?
Bore Cleaning Methods & Products
Another thing I switched to and it has helped, with what your referring to in reguards to false reading on the patches, is a Tipton Ultra Cleaning Jag - Nickel Plated Brass. I have found that this will definately cut down the false reading almost completely. I use 1 3/4" patches, which cover the entire length of the jag so as not to allow contact with the bore. You might have to try different patches with them as they run just a tad bigger in doameter than regular jags. I found that using Pro Shot patches with the nickle plated jags and Tipton patches with the standard brass works just fine. The Tiptons run just a tad thicker, and you can still use them with the nickle plated jag if you just drop down a caliber size. I only use these for .257, .277, and .284 since these are the main calibers I shoot. They are also the highest velocity and seem to foul just a tad quicker.
hope this helps,
screech
Well-Known Member
An acquaintance of mine uses JB every 30rounds in his big guns and every 40 in his varmit guns. He has shot out alot more barrels than me and claims they make his barrels last longer and shoot better. He uses them on his custom barrels and his factory. I use it every now and then. I to, find it helps it with accuracy if you're gun dosen't want to shoot good. some of my guns dont shoot worth crap unless you use JB every time you clean. a 300wsm i know of is really picky withou it.
Delta Hunter
Well-Known Member
In my experience, CR-10 doesn't hold a candle to Montana Extreme 50BMG. For that matter, neither does anything else, although Wipeout comes in a close second.
As to the subject of false copper readings, I was having this problem with 50BMG since it's so strong and here's how I solved the problem. First, I apply it (after cleaning for powder with a good powder solvent) with a bore mop that has a steel core instead of using a patch on a brass jag. I believe I got these mops from Walmart. Then after waiting 10 or 15 minutes, I put a patch on the end of another clean mop and push it through the bore. If there's blue on the patch the only thing that could cause it is copper in the bore. I sometimes also use a nylon brush (with steel core) with 50BMG. Just depends on how much copper's in there based on the first patch that comes out.
As to the subject of false copper readings, I was having this problem with 50BMG since it's so strong and here's how I solved the problem. First, I apply it (after cleaning for powder with a good powder solvent) with a bore mop that has a steel core instead of using a patch on a brass jag. I believe I got these mops from Walmart. Then after waiting 10 or 15 minutes, I put a patch on the end of another clean mop and push it through the bore. If there's blue on the patch the only thing that could cause it is copper in the bore. I sometimes also use a nylon brush (with steel core) with 50BMG. Just depends on how much copper's in there based on the first patch that comes out.
keithcatfish
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2006
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- 40
When I have to clean at the range quickly, I use Barnes CR-10. Its effective but nasty stuff. I much prefer to use a foaming bore cleaner (seems like all brands are about equally effective)and let it sit on my kitchen counter over night. No brushing, no mess, no smell, less risk of bore damage due to poor cleaning technique and all the copper is GONE with one patch before breakfast.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
I've been enjoying the use of Warthog 1134
Also using Wipeout but its a bit behind Warthog in my experience.
Also using Wipeout but its a bit behind Warthog in my experience.
Michael Eichele
Well-Known Member
I have a rifle I use almost exclusively for test purposes. One of the tests I put it through has been JB bore paste to see for myself that it does or does not wear out barrels. On average, I clean it every 20 or so rounds. I then use JB to clean and a host of other solvents to clean out the paste before fouling it out.
The verdict:
I have put over 3000 rounds through the barrel. 3000 / 20 rounds is 150 cleanings. I wish I could say that it doesnt wear down the lands, however, it is still within specs and it still shoots anywhere from .375 - .5 MOA even at long range.
The next experiment will be to use JB with a few drops of oil to see if that helps cut down on the wear.
The bottom line: If you use JB every 20 rounds on a 308, you will clean out the barrel before you shoot out the barrel. If you are using it in a 300 RUM, you will shoot out the barrel before you clean the barrel out. So if you use it every 100 rounds or so and with a lttle oil (as recomended by the manufacturer) and clean it every 20-40 rounds in a more conventional manner, you have no need to worry. 150 cleanings is alot and she still shoots perfectly.
The verdict:
I have put over 3000 rounds through the barrel. 3000 / 20 rounds is 150 cleanings. I wish I could say that it doesnt wear down the lands, however, it is still within specs and it still shoots anywhere from .375 - .5 MOA even at long range.
The next experiment will be to use JB with a few drops of oil to see if that helps cut down on the wear.
The bottom line: If you use JB every 20 rounds on a 308, you will clean out the barrel before you shoot out the barrel. If you are using it in a 300 RUM, you will shoot out the barrel before you clean the barrel out. So if you use it every 100 rounds or so and with a lttle oil (as recomended by the manufacturer) and clean it every 20-40 rounds in a more conventional manner, you have no need to worry. 150 cleanings is alot and she still shoots perfectly.
Michael Eichele
Well-Known Member
BTW,
This test barrel is a factory barrel and is much harder to clean than my customs. In other words it takes more strokes during cleaning sessions to add insult to injury. With my customs, I only need it every 40-100 rounds and I dont use near as many strokes to git r done to further decrease the wear.
This test barrel is a factory barrel and is much harder to clean than my customs. In other words it takes more strokes during cleaning sessions to add insult to injury. With my customs, I only need it every 40-100 rounds and I dont use near as many strokes to git r done to further decrease the wear.
Kevin Cram
Well-Known Member
The best trick I've found for removing tough copper is:
Go straight to a bronze brush and use Sweets. Do 2 or 3 strokes and apply more Sweets. Do this several times until you get blue dripping from both ends. Now let sit for 15 min. Then use a patch soaked with regular household Hydrogen Peroxide. Push the patch very slowly down the barrel. It should take approx 1 min for a 30" barrel. When you get close to the end of the barrel you will see a yellow/green/blue froth oozing out the end. You'll think the barrel has got rabies. Remove the patch and run a second patch soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide a little bit faster this time. Now use several dry patches to clean out. Clean the chamber area, and then run 1 more clean white patch down the barrel stopping approx 1"-2" from the muzzle. Shine a flashlight inside the barrel. Your copper should all be gone. Unless you have a very rough barrel or are just breaking a barrel in, you should get a copper free barrel in one cleaning. Try it it really does work.
Good Luck.
Go straight to a bronze brush and use Sweets. Do 2 or 3 strokes and apply more Sweets. Do this several times until you get blue dripping from both ends. Now let sit for 15 min. Then use a patch soaked with regular household Hydrogen Peroxide. Push the patch very slowly down the barrel. It should take approx 1 min for a 30" barrel. When you get close to the end of the barrel you will see a yellow/green/blue froth oozing out the end. You'll think the barrel has got rabies. Remove the patch and run a second patch soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide a little bit faster this time. Now use several dry patches to clean out. Clean the chamber area, and then run 1 more clean white patch down the barrel stopping approx 1"-2" from the muzzle. Shine a flashlight inside the barrel. Your copper should all be gone. Unless you have a very rough barrel or are just breaking a barrel in, you should get a copper free barrel in one cleaning. Try it it really does work.
Good Luck.
