Complete annealing?

tomcat818

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Complete Annealing is carried out by heating above the upper critical temperature, and then cooling slowly in a very controlled manner. It requires complete knowledge of the isothermal transformation diagram and the cooling transformation diagram of the alloy so that the desired microstructure of the alloy is achieved.

This came to mind after watching many videos on annealing brass and realizing there was little to no discussion about cooling time other than ambient cooling or dropping brass in water. Some compared non-virgin annealed brass with no regard to cooling to non-annealed non-virgin brass while monitoring seating pressures and discovered the annealed brass had more pressure standard deviation than non.

Heating the alloy is just the first step and does not constitute annealed brass since there is no controlled\timed cooling process. In the glass industry these temp over time controlled ovens are called annealing ovens and the glass (heated to ~2,400F) takes ~ 14hrs to be brought down to room temp in these ovens so it is not overly brittle.

I understand this topic may be more suited to the bench rest crowd but with the prices being charged for quality brass these days I would love to get more firings while maintaining accuracy.

I'm asking these questions because I've reached the customary 2-3 firings were some believe annealing should take place on ~150 pieces of brass (100 Petersen which came annealed, 50 Nosler Premium which did not). I want to make the most informed decision possible before plunking down a bunch of money to implement this process.

Anyone utilizing a controlled cool down in their brass annealing process?
 
Snipped from another forum. Having worked for Kaiser Aluminum for several years in an extruded bar facility, I can assure you this is also true of aluminum. The heating and soak at high temp provides the anneallng, cool down is irrelevant.


Like I said-Non ferrous metal is annealed buy the heating. This is proven fact.
I anneal 5.56mm, 7.62x51mm, 30-06, 300WM, .45-70, .45-90 and 50BMG.
Quenching is for ferrous metals ONLY.
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
http://www.texas-mac.com/Annealing_Case_Necks.html
Facts, are stubborn things,
 
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Hobby annealing is a bit like going to church, it's all based on faith. I do anneal my cases, but I haven't a clue as to whether or not it is being done in a way that actually achieves the perceived goal.

To me, it's like putting expensive motor oil in your car. You take it on faith that the extra money you just spent is benefitting you somehow.

I reloaded for decades before anyone even mentioned annealing a brass case. I can't recall ever having a split neck. I normally got good case life (about10x before tossing). Why do I anneal? Because you guys make it seem necessary. :rolleyes: 🤣
 

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