BrentM
Well-Known Member
Man my suppressor hammers my rifles. Absolutely dirtiest mess ever. So I have to clean my chambers often, clean the can often, and clean the bore of carbon often. The trade off is worth it tho.
Cleaning your brass
- Thread starter J E Custom
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
I use vibratory too, but with walnut media.
1st, that has to be from a gasser. Like ShtrRdy said, my un-suppressed AR brass looks kind of like that, but not that bad. My suppressed bolt guns look nothing like that brass. Also, could be the powder choice. Not all powders are created equal. H4350 & H1000 (some of my main powders I use) are quite clean burning. Some of the RL and IMR powders are quite a bit dirtier burning. Even some Hodgdon too.
My walnut media, when fairly fresh, cleans my bolt gun brass similar to his stainless media in one hour. For 3 hours, looks like new. Only need to hit the primer pockets just a touch. My gasser brass takes 3 hours to get clean. But it comes out nice.
1st, that has to be from a gasser. Like ShtrRdy said, my un-suppressed AR brass looks kind of like that, but not that bad. My suppressed bolt guns look nothing like that brass. Also, could be the powder choice. Not all powders are created equal. H4350 & H1000 (some of my main powders I use) are quite clean burning. Some of the RL and IMR powders are quite a bit dirtier burning. Even some Hodgdon too.
My walnut media, when fairly fresh, cleans my bolt gun brass similar to his stainless media in one hour. For 3 hours, looks like new. Only need to hit the primer pockets just a touch. My gasser brass takes 3 hours to get clean. But it comes out nice.
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 103481
Guest
My suppressed ar casings look filthy just like that. No matter the cartridge, or if I have a gas block tuned correctly. I vibrate clean them, it works fine.
I don't clean bolt gun brass
I don't clean bolt gun brass
misterc01
Well-Known Member
I start with a FA media tumbler - with walnut from the pet store and a little Nufinish for usually three hours and it is nice a clean to me. I then lube and size, and into an ultrasonic from harbor Freight with Lemi-shine and Dawn to get rid of the lube and also gets the primer pockets cleaned, then dried an dedicated dehydrator. And that works fine for me. One day I may spring for the extra bucks to a stainless steel media wet tumbler, but no need to try and fix what is not broken for me.
I wonder how white vinegar would work
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
White vinegar is pretty aggressive, not to mention the smell. In a 1/2 hour it will usually remove any Cadmium or Zinc plating on hardware that I need to weld on. I'd be cautious in using it, and dilute it way, way down to start.
We use Citrinox at work for some of our cleaning in ultrasonic baths. I believe that we do use it on copper parts. I've a bottle of concentrate to try on parts cleaning, but haven't had an appropriate test case in a while. Note that the mfg's page recommends an immediate rinse when used on soft metals.
alconox.com
We use Citrinox at work for some of our cleaning in ultrasonic baths. I believe that we do use it on copper parts. I've a bottle of concentrate to try on parts cleaning, but haven't had an appropriate test case in a while. Note that the mfg's page recommends an immediate rinse when used on soft metals.
Citranox Acid Cleaner and Detergent | Alconox Inc.
Citranox acid cleaner - phosphate-free & free-rinsing - removes metal oxide, scale, salt & inorganic residues in manual and ultrasonic cleaning. Corrosion inhibited.
alconox.com
Alconox 1832 Citranox Phosphate-Free Concentrated Cleaner and Metal Brightener, 1 quart Bottle: Science Lab Detergents: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Alconox 1832 Citranox Phosphate-Free Concentrated Cleaner and Metal Brightener, 1 quart Bottle: Science Lab Detergents: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
freddiej
Well-Known Member
I have used all three methods.
I hated the corn cob bits in my primer pockets and flash holes. the ultra sonic was so-so but the SS pins and rotary tumbler have been the best I have ever used.
it takes 45 minutes in the tumbler, and they are better than new, more shiny and such.
I use 1 ounce of RCBS wet media, now ultra sonic media, enough hot water to cover the brass, and pins, then tumble. I have tried the lemi shine and dawn.. that just about sucked worse than any other concoction I have ever used. for 16 ounces of RCBS concentrate is less than 2 bottles of lemi-shine. I will stick with what works.
I hated the corn cob bits in my primer pockets and flash holes. the ultra sonic was so-so but the SS pins and rotary tumbler have been the best I have ever used.
it takes 45 minutes in the tumbler, and they are better than new, more shiny and such.
I use 1 ounce of RCBS wet media, now ultra sonic media, enough hot water to cover the brass, and pins, then tumble. I have tried the lemi shine and dawn.. that just about sucked worse than any other concoction I have ever used. for 16 ounces of RCBS concentrate is less than 2 bottles of lemi-shine. I will stick with what works.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Having started with the vibratory method first, I was slow to try something else but now I use the sonic cleaner for fast cleaning small batches, and the Pin tumbler for large batches. All methods require cleaning.rinsing after use so that stage of the process is similar.
The vibratory method requires that all the media dust is removed, (It is abrasive) and the primer pockets need to be cleared of stuck Media. Rinse and blow dry and primer pockets need brushing.
The pin tumbler does the best/most through job of cleaning inside and out, but requires separating the pins from the cases and still needs rinsing and drying.
The sonic cleaner does a good job of cleaning the cases but not a very good job of polishing them (Some like the polished look) it also needs to be rinsed and dried.
So with all process needing to be cleaned and dried, It just becomes a matter of time and the end results.
I also recommend using the manufactures suggested additives for whichever system you use and avoid substituting other products that could be harmful to the cases. (Speaking from experience).
J E CUSTOM
The vibratory method requires that all the media dust is removed, (It is abrasive) and the primer pockets need to be cleared of stuck Media. Rinse and blow dry and primer pockets need brushing.
The pin tumbler does the best/most through job of cleaning inside and out, but requires separating the pins from the cases and still needs rinsing and drying.
The sonic cleaner does a good job of cleaning the cases but not a very good job of polishing them (Some like the polished look) it also needs to be rinsed and dried.
So with all process needing to be cleaned and dried, It just becomes a matter of time and the end results.
I also recommend using the manufactures suggested additives for whichever system you use and avoid substituting other products that could be harmful to the cases. (Speaking from experience).
J E CUSTOM
6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
Never ever ever rinsed after corn or walnut tumbling. Just check primer pockets is all and shake out media inside brass. Others with drying and those SS pins can still get into your PP so no advantage there. But if you are in a hurry I guess it can be great and an advantage but I just prepare the day before and put the brass in my tumbler the night before and I am good to go.
Glad we have multiple ways to satisfy how one like to do it. Many ways to skin a cat
Glad we have multiple ways to satisfy how one like to do it. Many ways to skin a cat
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem with the direct impingement system used in the AR's and went to an adjustable gas block that directed the excess gas away from the action. This helped but didn't stop it from needing to be cleaned. people with the piston type stated that the piston made a huge improvement in the cleanliness of the action and preferred this type of system when shooting a suppressor.
When I adjust the gas block. the brass is not bad at all but the bolt assembly still needs cleaning
so the blow back system seams to contribute to this problem. I still haven't bought a piston type AR and just keep cleaning often.
I would still think the suppressor would need periodic cleaning though. If i ever buy a suppressor it will be one that can be dissembled for cleaning.
J E CUSTOM
I don't use any of the above, I use a drill and a scotch brite pad, fast,easy and clean
I will have to check out the videos because my AR's trash the brass with my can on them. I have an Osprey piston system on my 6.5 Grendel, 7.62x39 and 300 BlackOut and it doesn't help at all. So regulating a gas block won't help either.
It's all coming back down the barrel before the bullet exits once the bolt starts to open. I guess in theory if you turn the gas down, you could slow bolt opening to reduce it a bit.
I have used the can on my bolt guns and you dont get it like you do with an auto loader.
It loads up the mags too. The blue follower in my 7.62x39 mags is black now. But it is the AR I use the most with a can in play.
It's all coming back down the barrel before the bullet exits once the bolt starts to open. I guess in theory if you turn the gas down, you could slow bolt opening to reduce it a bit.
I have used the can on my bolt guns and you dont get it like you do with an auto loader.
It loads up the mags too. The blue follower in my 7.62x39 mags is black now. But it is the AR I use the most with a can in play.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I like the way you clean your cases after being tumbled to get the abrasive dust off and out of the inside of the case. Some skip the cleaning step and probably don't realize that they are pushing this abrasive dust though the bore every time it is fired, and also in the dies if not cleaned and rinsed before sizing. This cant be good for the dies or the bore of your expensive barrel.
J E CUSTOM
