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ChargeMaster scale inconsistent

I agree with you, if you gotta do all of that you my as well use a beam
I can appreciate that thought but not really, "all of that", is not really that much. I'm referring to the hand trickle part I mentioned. The purpose for me is to be more accurate down to the kernel of powder when throwing stick type powder or any powder for that matter. I'll explain. I've taken Varget and numerous other stick powders and some powders will take 3,4,5 kernels to just move the scale from say 48 to 48.01. Just depends on the powder makeup/formula. For me I started really paying attention to this. I've watched my SDs go into single digits most of the time now by using a manual trickler. I trickle in powder ever so slightly and soon as it hits my desired charge weight I'm done. If 48 is my desired charge weight I set my RCBS for 47.7 and then trickle the final kernels. For me it's made a difference for sure on lowering my SD's. The little extra time for me is worth it.

Know that if I was loading 223 or 308 to shoot in my ARs I could give a hoot.
 
Mods for sure. The straw mod is the best single thing you can do for it. I recommend a square cut on the straw vs. other configurations. I've also reprogramed it with specified run times for the different speeds and that makes it work really well. The way I did it cuts down on the drop time by almost 50%. I know most people shy away from touching the programing side but it's not that hard and there are online recourses to do it.

Another thing to note is, 'when the scale shuts the motor off'. I've noticed if it stops quickly, the load is almost always going to be high. Also, the scale is very consistent if you drop 0.1 grain short and drop in a couple kernels until the reading immediately kicks over to the next 0.1 increment. It lacks the hundreth display but I believe it can read that weight as the program decides when to roll over to the next tenth mark. I've cross checked it with more sensitive scales.
 
I've got the Chargemaster Lite, and it does fluctuate a bit. I also have a Frankford electronic scale which is also somewhat accurate, but not perfect. So when I'm doing load development or hunting rounds, I use the Chargemaster to load the pan, then I place the pan on the Frankford scale to verify.

I don't trust either scale completely, but the odds of them both being off the exact same on one load is pretty rare. If it's off more than 0.1 grain, I dump the powder back into the hopper and redo. If it's off twice in a row, I re-calibrate the Chargemaster. Works well for me, just takes a few seconds to measure the charge twice.
 
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Thanks guys for all the responses. At least now I know that I'm not the only one to experience the inconsistency.
There are several of your suggestions that I will certainly start with. Pre-warming, leveling, and programming about 2 tenths shy. Also will look into the straw.
I appreciate your suggestions.
Dan
 
I wasn't a big fan of the plastic straw modification. One day I happened to notice the diameter on one of the stainless steel straws from my wife's thermos fit perfectly inside the drop tube, so I stole it and cut it to the appropriate length. Even ran it through the chamfer/deburring tool to clean up the ends. Works much better in my opinion.
 
Temperature, static, electronic interference, whether or not your let it "warm up", day of the week, whether your dog was nearby or not -- so many things seem to affect these. If you're in the path of the air register blowing air on it, add that to the list.

My RCBS (gen 1) grew more inconsistent with time. On mine, you could program the weight below final setting where it would slow to trickle. Made a world of difference on long stick powders. Still, it kept becoming more inconsistent. Gave it away.
I replaced it with a Hornady LnL You could customize the dispense settings on the Hornady too, but it would lose them and return to default when you powered it off. It wasn't much better.What I absolutely *hated* about the Hornady is if it threw over, it would beep, then within a second, switch the display to the target weight. Problem was, sometimes the beep meant .3gr over, sometimes 1gr over.
I got sick of it and sold it.
Now I throw manually with an antique Belding & Mull powder drop and check it with a US Solid electronic check scale -- exact every time and with bottleneck cases, easily 2-3x faster.
I really like the Belding & Mull powder drops. Guess I'm old school.
 
I have the charge master lite.

Always dead on weight wise.

Once in a while it throws .1 high. I tap the tube to get powder out. Seems to help.

I have 4 bullets of varying weight that I use, with known weights, that I weigh before using it.

40, 55, 75, 140. . I've never really seen it miss weight them. I don't cal very often. I do hit the zero with the pan on when it gets turned on.

Really, the only way to see how consistent it is , is by weighing something of known weight periodically.

I do use a bullet close to the weight I'm throwing before and during a loading session.

Just a sanity check, but gives you confidence that it's working correctly.

Like every 10 rounds or something like that......
 
If you purchase a Creedmoor Sports TRX 925 scale accurate to +or- .01g, you'll see how inaccurate the RCBS is. Sure the RCBS will say 39.5g, but you'll find when you verify the load with an accurate scale it can easily be off by as much as a grain. I've halved my extreme spreads and all my SD's are now single digit. I started using it when shooting 600 yard benchrest, but now use it for all my accurate hunting rifles. It's not worth it with large caliber moderately accurate rifles.
 
I can appreciate that thought but not really, "all of that", is not really that much. I'm referring to the hand trickle part I mentioned. The purpose for me is to be more accurate down to the kernel of powder when throwing stick type powder or any powder for that matter. I'll explain. I've taken Varget and numerous other stick powders and some powders will take 3,4,5 kernels to just move the scale from say 48 to 48.01. Just depends on the powder makeup/formula. For me I started really paying attention to this. I've watched my SDs go into single digits most of the time now by using a manual trickler. I trickle in powder ever so slightly and soon as it hits my desired charge weight I'm done. If 48 is my desired charge weight I set my RCBS for 47.7 and then trickle the final kernels. For me it's made a difference for sure on lowering my SD's. The little extra time for me is worth it.

Know that if I was loading 223 or 308 to shoot in my ARs I could give a hoot.
It's no more accurate than a beam, 48g is 48g no matter how you get there, if it works for you stick with it. I have had most all of the automatic stuff and it was ok but to me in the end the beam is just as fast and I trust it
 
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All the precautions above about outside influences are good -- neon lights, a fan in the room, fluctuation in line current, breathing on the scale. They all affect the final result. I leave mine turned on all the time, so there is no warmup time, but I still got fluctuation.

About a year ago I went to throwing charges two-tenths below and trickling up on a balance beam scale.

Just last month I bought an electronic scale off Temu on the internet. Tiny thing, and I figured it was a poor use of $6 when it arrived (yes, $6 -- shipped!) but I put the battery in and thought I'd give it a try. It turns out I get far more accurate results (based on results with check weights) than either the Chargemaster or the balance beam. Hard to believe the cheap Chinese scale could beat a balance beam, but it was consistently more accurate to about 0.2 grain. It is a lot slower, but for long range or bench rest loads, of which I only shoot less than 100 rounds at a time, I am not troubled by the few extra minutes it takes.
I believe it!
 
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