Bridgeport manual

specweldtom

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Looking for an operators/maintenance manual for a 1hp J head 42" table. I've never ran one, but have bought a used one that looks worse than it is, (I hope).

Thanks, Tom
 
Looking for an operators/maintenance manual for a 1hp J head 42" table. I've never ran one, but have bought a used one that looks worse than it is, (I hope).

Thanks, Tom

the operators manual is different from the maintenance/parts manual. The later is also fairly expensive compared to the other. Then there are two different ones on top of that. One will cost you several hundred dollars unless you know somebody inside. I had that one, and gave it away.

The "J" head has an issue with the drive pulleys, but can be fixed. (all J heads by the way). The quill can be an issue, and if the bore is loose there is no good fix. Yet on a Bridgeport, the saddle is the main issue. If it's a chrome plated one, they are a bear to fix, but can be done. A 42" table is about as long as you ever want with a Bridgeport, and really a shorter one is better yet. Has to do with the overhang and support designed into the saddle. (bad on a good day) The gibs wear fast in them, and many folks think it's great to run them too tight. Made a lot of money undoing that damage alone. Lets hope the owner before you left them a little loose. The next issue with them is the screw & nuts plus the mounting yoke. Lead Screw International sells an aftermarket one that's ten times better than the OEM unit. If you pull the gibs, make sure they are not damaged. Stone them very lightly with a red india stone (I mean very lightly) Samething with the dovetails on the table I might add. If you pull the table, then check to see if the lube system even works. Half of them don't! Sometimes all you have to do is clean the holes out, but often you see the oil lines leaking where the lead ferule seats in the casting. New parts can be had from Bijur.

Bridgeports are almost not worth rebuilding due to cost alone. I've done several, and they are fairly easy. The factory spec is .001" error in a foot of travel. The last one I scraped came in at .00025" in 16" of travel on a certified H block. That one never cut metal again, and was used as a gauge. And before I forget it, never pick the table up with eyebolts! It'll warp. Take CRS bars and slip them into the tee slots. Then loop a rope in there. This spreads the weight better. A warped table can be a hard thing to undo, and may take six to eight weeks to get it undone.
gary
 
Gary, thanks for the good info. I had always believed that the Bridgeports were top drawer. I have a better idea now of their weak points and can use it accordingly.

Thanks once again for sharing your experience.

Tom
 
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