Brass sticking at all powder charges

[xsn10s]

So, report is in, the chamber was polished, but the root cause of the problem is almost no existent primary extraction. Basically, the case is getting stuck and there is nothing camming to pop it free. This is exaggerated by the size of the RUM case and high pressure. Now, I have to see if TL/Classic Hunter Action will help me out of this jam. It's really upsetting because now I have a rifle that I spent a bunch of money on and can't reliably use for its intended purpose. I know GA did their job, the rifle plain shoots.

Same deal different vendor. Call them and see what they'll do. You spent money for a working action, good money. These are mechanical devices made by people. The devices and people can and will fail. give them a chance to make it right.

 

[Longranger7mm]

If you see ridges or marks on the brass after firing, the Smith is the 1st place I would take it.

Sounds like a problem with the chamber. I would have the Smith look at it.

 

[MNbogboy]

Well I guess I'm confused! Didn't know there was a camming action on the lifting of the bolt. Have built quite a few rifles, most on them rem 700 actions. Several of them were 300 RUM. Never a problem. The bolt lugs are flat and the inside of the action where the lugs ride are flat. There is nothing to push the bolt away from the chamber to create a camming effect. The only cam is the one on the back of the bolt to cock the firing pin. Maybe I'm stupid. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks

Primary extraction on 700 is on the bolt handle (opposite the knob). It contacts the receiver frame and "cams" the bolt back a "smidge" to release the fired case.

 

[Pdvdh]

Bummer on the chamber...especially a "chutun' " barrel......

But as to
"How many reloaders do you know with 0.0001" measurement tools?"
They are available most everywhere these days.....i have two...so percentage is up....

Yes, they've always been available. But not in common use by shooters and reloaders. On the other hand, most will have 0.001" calipers, which will easily ID measurements down to 0.0005".

Next question. What reloading task requires measurement accuracy down to 0.0005"?

 

[6MM06AI]

Primary extraction on 700 is on the bolt handle (opposite the knob). It contacts the receiver frame and "cams" the bolt back a "smidge" to release the fired case.

Thanks for pointing that out! I never noticed that. Always squared the front of the action. Wonder if he could polish those ramps on the bolt handle and action to smooth the extraction?

 

[86alaskan]

actually, polishing would only make the problem worse,as it would further reduce the amount of ramp. might make it smooth, but lessen the effect that it's supposed to have. It's going to get a new bolt fitted which should fix the problem, otherwise we're on to a new action.

 

[Gregg C]

Huh....now that u mention it my Savage had much the same problem. Especially bad after lapping the bolt. Wound up laminating a piece of formica sample on the front of the rear baffle. Im not sure you would do that even if you could but worked like a charm for me. Good luck it sucks when things dont go smoothly after spending lots of cash on a pet....

 

[MNbogboy]

actually, polishing would only make the problem worse,as it would further reduce the amount of ramp. might make it smooth, but lessen the effect that it's supposed to have. It's going to get a new bolt fitted which should fix the problem, otherwise we're on to a new action.

The bolt handle could be tig welded & re-profiled.
If the bolt is changed out headspace can be adjusted with a new lug (thicker) that is surface ground. Assuming that reamer will clean up radial blemishes with minimal additional depth of cut (.001-.003?).
If the chamber has already been polished out & headspace is correct. I would weld up the old bolt to minimize changing other things. Of course the smith's ability will come into play.
A good test would be to fire it, insure that it does stick, then wedge a narrow strip of shim stock (.010 or so) between the ramp & action. If it extracts then decisions can be made from there.

 

[86alaskan]

Yeah, I'm leaving this one up to those that know. My builder knows, I hope everyone else involved does as well.

 

[dougduey]

I had a similar issue with 2 of my rifles this past year. One was a brand new rifle chambered in 338 Lapua. Virgin brass was fine, but resized brass would stick at just about any charge weight. Turned out to be a couple of burrs in the chamber causing the problem. The very reputable local gunsmith diagnosed the issue and polished the chamber up and the problem was solved. The smith did have me bring in my dies and brass to make sure everything was getting sized correctly, and it was.
The second rifle with the issue of sticking brass (same gunsmith diagnosed and fixed the issue) was a rebarrel job where I sent it to the barrel makers for the install. They also squared the action and bolt face and lapped the lugs when they did the install. Well, I had a burr in the chamber causing issues on this rifle, too. But, that wasn't the whole issue. When they "trued up" the action and lugs, they took a little too much off and I virtually had no primary extraction on the bolt. Had to order a new bolt from PTG to fix the issue. All is good now, but I learned to only trust having a very good gunsmith take care of my rifles from now on. He's installing a new barrel on my 6.5-284 as we speak.

 

[jcoop]

I know this may sound oversimplified and you may have already found the issue, but I figured Id share my experiand with a similar problem. I had a problem this year with one of my .338 Lapuas. I had very sticky brass (lapua brass) at any charge. I was checking everything and could not find the problem other than a slight ring at the base of the case, but it was not much of a ring (was driving me crazy). Someone suggested making sure I was getting all the case lube off of my cases before firing. So I cleaned my chamber and wiped my brass down with alcohol and it functioned perfectly! I have been able to load back up to slightly above max book with no issues except one time when I forgot to wipe them down then got sticky brass again. Its not like they were covered in lube before, you could not really even feel it on the case. I now know for this rifle I must wipe the brass down with alcohol as part of my process. I do not do this for any other rifle I own and have not experienced this problem before or since but I have ran 150 rounds through the rifle since figuring this out and the only time I have had a sticky bolt was when I forgot to wipe them down. Just a thought.

 

[dougduey]

I know this may sound oversimplified and you may have already found the issue, but I figured Id share my experiand with a similar problem. I had a problem this year with one of my .338 Lapuas. I had very sticky brass (lapua brass) at any charge. I was checking everything and could not find the problem other than a slight ring at the base of the case, but it was not much of a ring (was driving me crazy). Someone suggested making sure I was getting all the case lube off of my cases before firing. So I cleaned my chamber and wiped my brass down with alcohol and it functioned perfectly! I have been able to load back up to slightly above max book with no issues except one time when I forgot to wipe them down then got sticky brass again. Its not like they were covered in lube before, you could not really even feel it on the case. I now know for this rifle I must wipe the brass down with alcohol as part of my process. I do not do this for any other rifle I own and have not experienced this problem before or since but I have ran 150 rounds through the rifle since figuring this out and the only time I have had a sticky bolt was when I forgot to wipe them down. Just a thought.

Thanks for the info. My issues were mainly with Lapua brass, like you, and not with Nosler brass. It drove me crazy, and I had some of the resized Lapua brass stick on me recently. I think you may have just diagnosed that issue for me. I'll run all of my 338 brass through the ultrasonic from now on to make sure their isn't any possibility of lube on them. I also clean my chamber out with brake cleaner once I'm finished using WipeOut to clean the barrel since I heard it can make things sticky if it gets into the chamber.
Thanks again for posting

 

[86alaskan]

Thought the same thing, and that wasn't the issue. I cleaned all loaded rounds with alcohol and the chamber with throttle body cleaner, so both were totally clean prior to sticking. Have had dents in cases caused by lube left on them, but haven't stuck one from that. When I lived in Alaska, I made a habit of making sure everything was totally clean so a stuck case or malfunction wouldn't end up causing my death.

 

[Pdvdh]

If you have to use brake cleaner to clean your cartridge cases and chamber in order to extract a fired cartridge, you have a defective rifle, ammo, or cartridge case.