I always deprime my brass with a universal depriming tool before sizing and the anneal and then tumble in a media tumbler. The reason for depriming the brass first is to help clean the primer pockets out while the brass is getting tumbled. I use the universal depriming tool because I do not want to start the resizing or neck sizing process "until" the brass is annealed. I always anneal my brass, even if it is brand new and out of the box. I believe that his is a process that I "know" was done properly, and....usually speaking I am not a fan of reloading my brass numerous times before chucking it because "usually" after two or three reloads it has had it, the primer pockets are starting to loosen and I prefer to use new brass all over again. Maybe some day I will be buying a premium brass like Nosler or Lapua, but haven't pulled that pin yet. After deprimed, annealed and cleaned/tumbled I ream the primer pockets with a primer reamer that I put in my portable drill to make the reaming easier ( they cost around $10 from Brownells), then I full length resize the brass with the expander ball/ball left out of the die. After full length resizing I lubricate the inside of the case necks with a graphite lubricant using an acid brush or modeler's paint brush, I then neck size the brass with a Sinclair mandrel neck sizing mandrel die (cost is around $50 for the set up), then I debur the flash hole with an RCBS flash hole deburring tool ($20 from Brownells/or...shop around for better price), trim the brass to the same overall length, then chamfer the case neck inside and out. If you choose to turn the necks do them after neck sizing and then chamfer the mouth of the case inside and out. If you have a chance try neck sizing a casing that has been annealed against one that has not been annealed you will be able to feel the difference in the amount of pressure needed to do the operation. For annealing I use the salt bath method, there will/is a lot of controversy as to what is a better process for annealing, however I find my set up works, and it costs around $120 to get set up opposed to other methods that can run $700+. I would also suggest that you go back into this forum and do some searching/researching on the processes that I have written about, there's a whole lot more "specific" information on the topics that I have written about here that will give more specifics on what I have suggested. And.........if you decide you would like to reload for a wildcat cartridge, that is another whole chapter. Keep asking questions as that is how you will learn. You are on a good forum with good knowledgeable people who are more than willing to help out. And.....one more suggestion I try to make is to try and find an experienced mentor to help you through the learning process and then build on that experience/knowledge and then develop your own. Good luck with the reloading.
