Jeffpatton00
Well-Known Member
I sure like how this helps keep things organized, I'm going to adopt this process.
Brass prep
- Thread starter Baboltin
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Anneal brass, tumble/clean brass, full-length resize without expander plug/ball, mandrel size necks, ream out/uniform primer pockets, deburr inside and outside of case necks, remove the burr on the flash hole inside of casing, check for OAL length of cases either trim or sort by lengths to add a couple of suggestions.
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While on this subject of brass prep....
1....Since factory loaded doesn't figure most will be reloaded for reuse of the brass....do they anneal in their process....
2.....what is the "most important part" of the brass to keep consistent.....
1....Since factory loaded doesn't figure most will be reloaded for reuse of the brass....do they anneal in their process....
2.....what is the "most important part" of the brass to keep consistent.....
Post number 2 is correct. I anneal then clean however. Loading ammo in that order will provide consistent ammo, annealing before cleaning in corn cob media reduces the annealing ring and provides a more uniform appearance of your reloaded ammo when complete. I like consistent AND pretty ammo.
If you reload your brass more than a couple times yes I would say it's very important if you're expecting great results on target if you're not shooting very far or just plinking if you do not load brass more than three times or four max then no
Lompoc
Well-Known Member
No you anneal before you resize so it makes the brass more nimble other wise you over work it and it gets hard
I always deprime my brass with a universal depriming tool before sizing and the anneal and then tumble in a media tumbler. The reason for depriming the brass first is to help clean the primer pockets out while the brass is getting tumbled. I use the universal depriming tool because I do not want to start the resizing or neck sizing process "until" the brass is annealed. I always anneal my brass, even if it is brand new and out of the box. I believe that his is a process that I "know" was done properly, and....usually speaking I am not a fan of reloading my brass numerous times before chucking it because "usually" after two or three reloads it has had it, the primer pockets are starting to loosen and I prefer to use new brass all over again. Maybe some day I will be buying a premium brass like Nosler or Lapua, but haven't pulled that pin yet. After deprimed, annealed and cleaned/tumbled I ream the primer pockets with a primer reamer that I put in my portable drill to make the reaming easier ( they cost around $10 from Brownells), then I full length resize the brass with the expander ball/ball left out of the die. After full length resizing I lubricate the inside of the case necks with a graphite lubricant using an acid brush or modeler's paint brush, I then neck size the brass with a Sinclair mandrel neck sizing mandrel die (cost is around $50 for the set up), then I debur the flash hole with an RCBS flash hole deburring tool ($20 from Brownells/or...shop around for better price), trim the brass to the same overall length, then chamfer the case neck inside and out. If you choose to turn the necks do them after neck sizing and then chamfer the mouth of the case inside and out. If you have a chance try neck sizing a casing that has been annealed against one that has not been annealed you will be able to feel the difference in the amount of pressure needed to do the operation. For annealing I use the salt bath method, there will/is a lot of controversy as to what is a better process for annealing, however I find my set up works, and it costs around $120 to get set up opposed to other methods that can run $700+. I would also suggest that you go back into this forum and do some searching/researching on the processes that I have written about, there's a whole lot more "specific" information on the topics that I have written about here that will give more specifics on what I have suggested. And.........if you decide you would like to reload for a wildcat cartridge, that is another whole chapter. Keep asking questions as that is how you will learn. You are on a good forum with good knowledgeable people who are more than willing to help out. And.....one more suggestion I try to make is to try and find an experienced mentor to help you through the learning process and then build on that experience/knowledge and then develop your own. Good luck with the reloading.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
I have a salt bath system, and it's works just fine. For years I didn't have one, and used a propane torch, cake pan, placed the case in the pan with water in it. It work just fine, and extended the life of the brass by 3 or 6 loading. Unless you are a great lover of purchasing brass all the time. I would anneal the brass at lease once. I now do it again after the 3rd firing of the case. I also cut the necks for thickness. I weight all my bass. There is a lot of work that goes into setting up your brass with a great many steps. It's labor of love, and fun to arrive at that load you're using. I have found that the more you put into building your load, and the care of doing that, the better the groups. Your primer pockets will loosen up, and depending on hot your loads the quicker primer pocket loosen. All the steps take time, and there a lot of work that goes into case prep. I generally have a rifle built for me now. Even with off the rack rifle, you can do a lot with. I watch for how the bullet does when you shot animal, and how it does hitting a target, groups, velocity, powders in weather. Their a whole world out there, and to me it's fun. It looks like a great many of us have our pet powders, primers, bullets, and cases.
SSS
Mike
SSS
Mike
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate everyone's help and making me a better reloader and understand things better. Thank you everyone!
It seems as though annealing is the ticket I didn't do it with my brand new brass but will do it moving forward, with that said. How often does everyone anneal there brass? Every third reload or every time? Also what are some good annealing kits that are on the market and for sale to look into purchasing?
It seems as though annealing is the ticket I didn't do it with my brand new brass but will do it moving forward, with that said. How often does everyone anneal there brass? Every third reload or every time? Also what are some good annealing kits that are on the market and for sale to look into purchasing?
I anneal every time. I use an Allealeeze, but you don't need to spend a lot to anneal. I used a socket, a drill and propane torch for 30 years. Whatever method you choose, get some TempIlaq so you don't over anneal.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
Salt bath: [email protected] Is where I purchase the salt system for annealing. Lee has the lead heating devise for heating up the salt to anneal. They were very good people to work with.
SSS
Mike
SSS
Mike
Rardoin
Well-Known Member
Annealing is mainly done to prevent splitting of the necks once the brass gets too hard due to repetitive firing/sizing causing work hardening. I have shot loads in one competition cartridge (6.5 x55 BJAI) that I decided to not anneal the brass every sizing and see how long it took to degrade groups or split the necks. I had 5 loading cycles in one match set of brass that shot the same groups at 600yds at the 5th firing as it did the 1st after the anneal. I decided to not waste that brass and then annealed all of it before the next match use. I did not get any split necks but my working of the neck was minimal with my chamber spec/neck wall thickness and die. These were annealed on an AMP. I now anneal every firing because I have too much brass for each chambering to try to keep segregated and record the loadings since last anneal.
#5 trim brass, #6 deburr flash holes, #7 uniform primer pockets, #8 re-tumble brass, #9 clear flash holes of corn cob media, #10 prime, #11 Charge case, #12 seat bullet, #13 measure each one at the Ogive.
