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Bore scopes

Berrnard, that is not pitting, it is pieces cooked on carbon. The Teslong is a digital image. I had a Hawkeye bore scope for a long time that is a true optical image, and showed what these little black spots were. The first time I used my Teslong, I was looking at the bore in my 6 BRX, and it showed what looked like a patch of black specks, and I could feel them with the bronze bristle brush. I got the Hawkeye out and examined the area and it was carbon. There is no rhyme or reason as to why patches or pieces of carbon will stick to a place in a barrel.

It takes a while to figure things out, but you will get there.

I would urge you to create a "file" on each barrel. If you keep records on the number of shots fired or NOT, you can monitor the progression of the wear. The pattern of wear will amaze you over time.
This is another piece of good equipment that I have to get.
I am sure it will show me how bad I am at cleaning.
 
Well I just went all in on the Teslong. Bought the 26" rigid bore scope and the 45" flexible, with the 5 mirror set and the wifi adapter.
I agree with bluedog69,I use mine a lot.
If you haven't seen this video yet you might want to look at it.


Also F class John has video's on Teslong Borescopes on youtube as well
 
i don't know how to read what i see very well, but i found out that i had a carbon ring that was causing high pressure and poor groups, which was awesome.

Nobody actually cleans ALL of the black carbon out, do they? I mean i've scrubbed with bore tech and brushes a lot but it doesn't touch that baked on carbon. Patches are clean as a whistle tho, i figure it's good to go.
 
i don't know how to read what i see very well, but i found out that i had a carbon ring that was causing high pressure and poor groups, which was awesome.

Nobody actually cleans ALL of the black carbon out, do they? I mean i've scrubbed with bore tech and brushes a lot but it doesn't touch that baked on carbon. Patches are clean as a whistle tho, i figure it's good to go.
I just did a 223 that had really went bad on groups. Close to a 30 year old rifle. Had been as close to a one hole gun as I have had.
Anyway I thought I would buy a borescope and clean it. I bought JB bore paste and spent about 5 minutes on it. Looked like a brand new stainless when I was done. I was flat amazed how well it worked. I don't plan on doing that all the time but I guess I have done it to one barrel with great results.
 
I just did a 223 that had really went bad on groups. Close to a 30 year old rifle. Had been as close to a one hole gun as I have had.
Anyway I thought I would buy a borescope and clean it. I bought JB bore paste and spent about 5 minutes on it. Looked like a brand new stainless when I was done. I was flat amazed how well it worked. I don't plan on doing that all the time but I guess I have done it to one barrel with great results.
Did it shoot good again too then?
 
i don't know how to read what i see very well, but i found out that i had a carbon ring that was causing high pressure and poor groups, which was awesome.

Nobody actually cleans ALL of the black carbon out, do they? I mean i've scrubbed with bore tech and brushes a lot but it doesn't touch that baked on carbon. Patches are clean as a whistle tho, i figure it's good to go.
Yes you can get it out!I do.
I use Isso or JB Paste on a nylon bristle brush and just work the end of chamber area to about 6 inches into the barrel on mine.All dark colors gone!
VinceMule (on this site) taught me some tricks on getting even baked on carbon and copper layered on spots completely out.
Edit to add:Be sure to use a bore guide to protect your chamber.Just work beginning of barrel to the end of the carbon ring,about 5-6 inches in my barrels.
 
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i don't know how to read what i see very well, but i found out that i had a carbon ring that was causing high pressure and poor groups, which was awesome.

Nobody actually cleans ALL of the black carbon out, do they? I mean i've scrubbed with bore tech and brushes a lot but it doesn't touch that baked on carbon. Patches are clean as a whistle tho, i figure it's good to go.

Yes, we clean the carbon out. You have to up your game from just using Bore Tec. The first 60 strokes on a bronze bristle brush are the best, wore out at 100 strokes. Buy the bronze bristle brushes by the dozen, Dewey, Pro shot are some of the very best. Tipton has a new brush with 30% more bristles, but they are a little more expensive.

Carbon just keeps building up, the super heat and pressure gets it so hard, you can not remove it without serious damage and wear to the barrel. I have seen copper get so thick that minimum book loads were high pressure where you had to beat the bolt open on a 6.5x55 Sweed where those 160g round nose have a lot of bearing surface.
 
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Did it shoot good again too then?
It went from about 3-4" groups at 100 to sub MOA again.
I think I need to probably drop the powder charge again to tighten it back up. The load that was a 3 in one ragged hole group was developed within about 20 shots of it being a brand new rifle. I knew nothing of a barrel speeding up as it breaks in so after 30 years and 600 rounds I think I need to get good glass on it and do a rework up on it to see what it will do.
Right now my son has it dialed in at 200 with a thermal scope on it. He has been shooting the bottoms of 1" medicine bottles and the bottoms of regular water and pop bottles at 200. You fill them with hot water to get a clear heat signature to aim at.
So it went from me thinking it had been shot out, rusted, and abused (6 kids deer hunted with this from about 6 to 12 yrs old....think mud jammed in the end of the barrel 🤣 ) to shooting the bottom of pop bottles at 200 yards again.
I wish I had taken before and after photos.
 
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