Big 7s vs Big 30s final decision

[Gobbler256]

I'll have to say that I've never shot any of those calibers BUT-I have 47 years of hunting Elk under my belt and have harvested about 40 elk in those years. Each of those animals fell to a 270 Win-130-140gr, 30-06 150gr SP or recently a 300Win 180 gr soft point. My longest shot has been 626yds.
Unless you practice a "LOT" your going to wound more animals than kill Unless your well practiced on a 18-24 in target at that range and good at dopeing the wind.
The other issue is availability of ammo. I always stress that to hunters. The average mom and pop store in the mountain west may not carry some of these loads.
Lastly, my advise is get a gun in a caliber you can shoot well at 300-500 yds, learn that guns ins and outs, shoot a lot and become proficient with shooting that gun. Prepare yourself rather than beating you head against the wall with all these decision matrix.

 

[RH300UM]

Well I've had vast shooting experiences with all the mentioned choices.
The 300 NMI ( 300RBH) would be the best choice for you.
But….
The 338 RBH (338 NMI) is on another level
Not in the OPs list but it's my pick!!

 

[esshup]

Hi all! Kinda of narrowed it down to 4 cartridges that are pretty similar but just looking for any experiences or reasons to go towards one over the others

The 4 I'm looking at are the 28 Nosler, 300 Norma Mag Improved, then the 7 and 30 RBH from RBros.

This is for a gun that would be a North American game rifle, built around 10 pounds when field ready. After it's broke in and I'm comfortable with the rifle it would be lucky to be shot more than 5 times in a year. Simply only used when I pull a tag out west(which is hardly an annual thing), and to make sure it's still shooting straight after the summer. So barrel life and case life is not really a factor to me, it will take enough time before I need one that a new barrel or a new set of brass would be fun to shop for at that point. The rifle would be a longer range(up to 1000 yards)hunting gun for elk and mule deer mainly.

I would be pushing all these rounds pretty hard: 28 Nos would be using the 195 and going about 3150, 7 RBH would use the 195 going 3200-3225, the 300 NMI would be using the 230 going 3100-3125, and finally the 30 RBH would use the 230 going 3150-3175

Again, any experience with any of these, advice with them, or reasons one may be a little more of a pain to deal with than the others is helpful

I'm going to throw another one in the mix. 7mm Allen Magnum. It's a hair under 10# without the scope. https://apsrifles.com/Home_Page.html
Velocity Performance:
Bullet Weight Velocity (30" barrel length)
140 gr. 3700 fps
160 gr. 3550 fps
175 gr. 3450 fps
180 gr. 3400 fps
200 gr. (custom) 3300 fps

Ballistic Performance:
Bullet Weight: 160 gr Accubond @ 3550 fps, 250 yard zero, 10 mph

Yardage velocity wind drift Energy TOF(sec)
400 2870fps 6.7" 2927ft/lb 0.376
600 2568 15.9" 2342 0.597
800 2285 29.7" 1854 0.844
1000 2021 49.1" 1451 1.124

Bullet Weight: 200 gr. ULD RBBT @ 3300 fps, 250 yard zero,10mph

Yardage velocity wind drift energy TOF
400 2910 fps 4.2" 3759ft/lbs 0.387
600 2727 9.7" 3302 0.600
800 2552 17.7" 2891 0.827
1000 2383 28.5" 2522 1.071
1200 2221 42.4" 2191 1.331

I've shot a coyote from a cold clean barrel, almost a year after I put it in the safe at 867 yds, a cow elk @ 708 yds and I've run it out to just shy of 1400 yds. with great accuracy (if I do my part, 1/4-3/8 MOA, 1/2 moa on a bad day) I was shooting 175 SMK's at 3495 fps but after 200 rounds down the tube they started going *POOF* at around 50 yds. I switched to 180g Berger VLD's at 100 fps less and had no problems, the 195g EOL's are running 3250 fps.

Here's the build:
Nesika Bay Model M Hunter
Lilja SS, fluted 1-9, 4 groove, 28" barrel, #6 contour
APS Slim Painkiller muzzle brake
Jewell trigger
Manner MCS-GAT stock
Defensive Edge adjustable cheekpiece
HS Precision Detachable Magazine system
Nesika 20 moa SS rail base
NightForce Ultralight rings
NightForce NXS NPR1 5.5-22x50mm with zero stop
Rail mounted ACI
Scope mounted scope level
Harris S-BRM 9"-13" Bipod with Swivel Lock w/Bipod Loc

When deciding on what caliber to shoot, Kirby told me that if I was going to do the majority of my hunting chasing Elk, then go with a .338 caliber. If most was going to be Mule Deer and Antelope with the occasional Elk, the 7mm AM would be fine. Guys have used that caliber to take an Elk at a mile and the bullet still exited.

With mine, first shot from a clean, cold barrel is 2 moa high, after that they are all right there, cold or warm.

 

[hmbleservant]

My 2 cents...
I have a 28 nos.. I ignored the concerns about "too overbore" at first but here is what I learned and why I will change directions going forward...

You will need to do load development more often than you might be thinking. I was out of my accuracy in just 10's of shots (don't have my notes, but maybe 60 rounds?). So by the time I got my load developed I find myself not wanting to shoot the rifle cause I would have to tweak my load (seating depth), validate everything (for long range dope/poi), etc. ...anyways you get where I'm going.

Also, barrel length is demanding (to be longer than I want with supressor)

Long story short, I am probably going to do a 7prc when it comes out soon its the more sensible sweetspot powder capacity.

For the 30's I'd look at 300 prc for same reasons, but I have less experience with 30's.

Consider your recoil goals. Do you want to spot your own shots? With a suppressor? Brake? Is barrel length a concern?

I what to be under 10lbs with a suppressor (20-ish barrel length) and spot my shots, so that's why I stay in the 7's (recoil).

The 7 prc will become the new 7 RM for all practical purposes. Factory support will be there for the cartridge vs a custom throated/twist 28 nos/etc.

I guess I want to be able to develop a load AND practice with the rifle SO that I have a BIGGER advantage than 10% less wind drift.

Many don't realize that 100fps equates to only about 6% wind drift advantage, but often you are picking up 30% recoil and multiples less shots per "throat erosion accuracy node" for that small advantage of about 200 fps (12% wind drift)...then add in the longer barrel and not being able to spot your shots and it becomes obvious (to me) that it's not worth it. It is too over bore and past the bell curve.

...I had the same idea as you back then. 5 shots per year, barrel life doesn't matter....but there is more to it than that.

Just my 2 cents

...if you're OK with brakes (I'm not) then consider a 30 cal mag (like 300prc) for the additional terminal advantages, but I'm comfortable with 7's in this regard and don't feel undergunned. 2 more cents

Hope this helps

 

[Joefrazell]

I've got a buddy that shoots about twice a year and this was his target last year before elk season that he shot at 100 yards with his 300 win mag. He said he was good out to 600 yards. There's no hope for some people

 

[btap1991]

If I could only choose one always go 30 cal first
If you can get all needed stuff go rbh i would die to the fact I shoot a lot and not being able to get what I need to shoot or load or pay double for it stresses me. If I can't get a stock for whatever round I'm hesitant.
My last three I got ammo components first then action then built from there because how bad it's been finding stuff and I'm not the best waiter.
All of those will do what you want just fine.
So really it's your preference vs anyone else.
28 is sweet but so many people bought them you can't find ammo unless its
Prices crazy and you can for all the other nosler rounds minus 27 right now…
I would go 30 nosler for what you want with its availability and alot of people are just figuring out how well it can perform.
Again you'll probably be happy with any of those as killers for hunting

 

[crm3006]

Why go so exotic? I doubt you can accurately judge the quality of the trophy you are contemplating shooting at 1000 yards to start with, and if you only fire your rifle five times a year, I seriously doubt your ability to hit the vital zone at 1000 yards. The animals you hunt deserve better than a poorly placed shot from an unpracticed shooter. IMHO, you would be better served by one of the big .30s, or .33s, and a reconsideration of your capable range.

 

[7.62 Gunner]

My 2 cents...
I have a 28 nos.. I ignored the concerns about "too overbore" at first but here is what I learned and why I will change directions going forward...

You will need to do load development more often than you might be thinking. I was out of my accuracy in just 10's of shots (don't have my notes, but maybe 60 rounds?). So by the time I got my load developed I find myself not wanting to shoot the rifle cause I would have to tweak my load (seating depth), validate everything (for long range dope/poi), etc. ...anyways you get where I'm going.

Also, barrel length is demanding (to be longer than I want with supressor)

Long story short, I am probably going to do a 7prc when it comes out soon its the more sensible sweetspot powder capacity.

For the 30's I'd look at 300 prc for same reasons, but I have less experience with 30's.

Consider your recoil goals. Do you want to spot your own shots? With a suppressor? Brake? Is barrel length a concern?

I what to be under 10lbs with a suppressor (20-ish barrel length) and spot my shots, so that's why I stay in the 7's (recoil).

The 7 prc will become the new 7 RM for all practical purposes. Factory support will be there for the cartridge vs a custom throated/twist 28 nos/etc.

I guess I want to be able to develop a load AND practice with the rifle SO that I have a BIGGER advantage than 10% less wind drift.

Many don't realize that 100fps equates to only about 6% wind drift advantage, but often you are picking up 30% recoil and multiples less shots per "throat erosion accuracy node" for that small advantage of about 200 fps (12% wind drift)...then add in the longer barrel and not being able to spot your shots and it becomes obvious (to me) that it's not worth it. It is too over bore and past the bell curve.

...I had the same idea as you back then. 5 shots per year, barrel life doesn't matter....but there is more to it than that.

Just my 2 cents

...if you're OK with brakes (I'm not) then consider a 30 cal mag (like 300prc) for the additional terminal advantages, but I'm comfortable with 7's in this regard and don't feel undergunned. 2 more cents

Hope this helps

This is excellent advice^^
As a recovering speed whore I've moved to saum and wsm cases for my long range work, and a 30 Nosler for the real heavy stuff.

 

[chav0_12]

I've got a buddy that shoots about twice a year and this was his target last year before elk season that he shot at 100 yards with his 300 win mag. He said he was good out to 600 yards. There's no hope for some people

I have to say, I don't shoot near as much as I'd like or as much as I probably should, maybe a few times a year. I don't shoot 3" groups though, even when I'm rusty. I do know a few people that just can't seem to shoot good groups though.

 

[RH300UM]

I have to say, I don't shoot near as much as I'd like or as much as I probably should, maybe a few times a year. I don't shoot 3" groups though, even when I'm rusty. I do know a few people that just can't seem to shoot good groups though.

Practice, Practice, Practice.
Burn that powder and those barrels.

 

[chav0_12]

Practice, Practice, Practice.
Burn that powder and those barrels.

I agree. I want to get some cheaper barrels to put on during the practice season and keep my carbon barrel for hunting season.

 

[Ucsdryder]

At hunting elevations my 7saum will shoot as far as I could ever want to shoot and then some. I guess 200fps would help make them more dead but I like my 20" barrel, ridiculously low recoil, and long barrel life.

 

[WildRose]

I've got a buddy that shoots about twice a year and this was his target last year before elk season that he shot at 100 yards with his 300 win mag. He said he was good out to 600 yards. There's no hope for some people

Sadly, that's better than the average hunter/shooter who can't put five rounds into a pie plate at a hundred yards.

 

[WildRose]

I agree. I want to get some cheaper barrels to put on during the practice season and keep my carbon barrel for hunting season.

Buy something relatively cheap to shoot like a 6.5L, .260, or Needmore.

They will still perform well on targets as far as you can shoot, easy on barrels, and pretty inexpensive to feed.

They are all extremely economical while still capable on targets further than most of us shoot.