I no longer have the factory barrel. The new Hart barrel is an 8 twist, and I'd say that is correct because so far, there's no keyholing whatsoever, the holes are nice little round holes, and first 3 shot group was 1 1/16 c to c, so things are looking up.
Barrel break in accuracy
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The Badger
Well-Known Member
Sorry, thought that's what you meant by hitting the target sideways. Sounds like its shooting now. Close enough to invest some time and effort to see if you can tune it in further with those.
We'll, I hope so. Them hammers aren't cheap, and I just bought another hundred. Once I get a load figured out with them, I'm going to switch to something cheaper until about hunting season.
David_Nosler28
Member
Are you sure it is the bore of your new barrel, could it be your stock, or something else? You might have checked all these things already but it is something to think about.
I suggest you methodically eliminate things so you don't chase your tail for months. I have had trouble for years with new rifles and barrels but recently I changed my approach after a old gunsmith from the UK suggested I read a book by Nathan Foster called "Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing & Maintenance". Nathan is from New Zealand and has spent decades learning and teaching others how to hunt at long range. I don't agree with everything he says and realize he is going against the grain of most modern / PRS long range shooters. However, the engineer in me likes his methodical step by step process. I found using his approach with a 2.1 MOA rifle actually had a stock issue not a barrel or load problem. I bedded the stock as he suggested and it went to 1 MOA then got better with hand loads. I never would have caught this issue if I had not used his approach.
I see break-in as critical and every rifle is different. I now use more of a cleaning and polishing method I learned from Nathan at break-in vs my old shoot 60-80 rounds then hand load because it takes less time and cost less money to get to sub MOA.
Nathan's views are controversial because he suggests a methodical method of break-in that includes lots of cleaning, maybe some throat polishing and even hand lapping with Scotch-Brite poly pads with a high fowling bore. He also pushes a through examination before he begins to fix a problem rifle - which caught my stock flex issue.
His book is long - 300 plus pages - but hunting long range is hard and I've found there are no short cuts
I suggest you methodically eliminate things so you don't chase your tail for months. I have had trouble for years with new rifles and barrels but recently I changed my approach after a old gunsmith from the UK suggested I read a book by Nathan Foster called "Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing & Maintenance". Nathan is from New Zealand and has spent decades learning and teaching others how to hunt at long range. I don't agree with everything he says and realize he is going against the grain of most modern / PRS long range shooters. However, the engineer in me likes his methodical step by step process. I found using his approach with a 2.1 MOA rifle actually had a stock issue not a barrel or load problem. I bedded the stock as he suggested and it went to 1 MOA then got better with hand loads. I never would have caught this issue if I had not used his approach.
I see break-in as critical and every rifle is different. I now use more of a cleaning and polishing method I learned from Nathan at break-in vs my old shoot 60-80 rounds then hand load because it takes less time and cost less money to get to sub MOA.
Nathan's views are controversial because he suggests a methodical method of break-in that includes lots of cleaning, maybe some throat polishing and even hand lapping with Scotch-Brite poly pads with a high fowling bore. He also pushes a through examination before he begins to fix a problem rifle - which caught my stock flex issue.
His book is long - 300 plus pages - but hunting long range is hard and I've found there are no short cuts
Not the stock. It's a McMillan M40 HTG stock. Pillar bedded and the action bedded with pro-bed 2000. Not the scope or mounts. They've all been torqued and retorqued. It's just tuning the bullet to the barrel. It'll get there. There's only been 22rounds put through it, and none of them were tuned for this rifle.
Shane Lindsey
Well-Known Member
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22 rounds through your rifle and 10 pages later... Brother you need to go shoot this...
Starlite
Well-Known Member
Curious. You getting good SDs in temperature below freezing with the VV N-560? I do with the N - 160. Have an opportunity to get a Kg. Of 560. Assuming they are similar in comp just the 500 series is a bit hotter.
Starlite
Well-Known Member
I've got both. If I lived in the US I'd give it to you. Really not temperature stable enough for me. Unless my powder is bad. I'm going to shoot it again this month when it's at 32*F/0*C
Starlite
Well-Known Member
This is exactly what I thought. That's y I asked about a borescope. Might save on material that's both expensive and increasingly difficult to predict availability.
Starlite
Well-Known Member
Absolutely agree. I've switched to almost exclusively using Monos; Mainly Barnes LRX and Hornady GMX for all boiler-room shots. Or low weight for caliber headshots; 110gr in a 270 win for example. Black Bear is the exception. They get 160gr RN from the 6.5 creed. Interestingly they are one of the most accurate loads thru that Sako finnlight with its 20" SS 🖊 barrel.
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
Doesn't surprise me. The 160gr RN has been an industry standard for 6.5's being used for large and/or dangerous game for a very long time.
nikeandros
Well-Known Member
I forgot to mention that when is a new barrel I clean the barrel every 10 shot for 2 times .. at the range... than 1 clean every 3 shot for 5 times...( yes a know.... what a waste.of ammo!!) I.learned when I was in the army.. . 30 years ago...
Starlite
Well-Known Member
That might be true from Hart. However, if the gunsmith worked the barrel then You should clean it thoroughly. Just my thoughts.
Cleaned it twice so far, every 10 rounds.
