Are you a SFP or FFP shooter?

[bigngreen]

Couldn't give me a FFP for precision shooting or hunting at long range, I do like it for mid ranges where you still have a usable reticle and are in the mid range of the power on the optic. I LOATHE thick cross hairs of most FFP optics at high magnification and I hate loosing a reticle at low power. I hold of for wind often and have zero issues looking at the power and knowing the value I'm at since its on most of the better optics. I have zero issues making a very fast wind correction on a miss, just mentally mark the miss and use that as your new aim point and pull the trigger no need to fart around with a value!!

 

[Deleted member 112174]

I use the MPBR method. sight in for 2.75 to 3 inches high at 100 yds. Hold dead center on the animal out to 245-275 yds., and hold on backbone at 300. Most modern non-mag calibers will stay between 3.5 high of line of sight to 3.5 below line of sight out to 245-275 yds. If they are over 300, I get closer. Often I read posts about how to have reliable hits and reliable humane death for game. Getting closer is a sure way to improve these things.

 

[bigngreen]

I use the MPBR method. sight in for 2.75 to 3 inches high at 100 yds. Hold dead center on the animal out to 245-275 yds., and hold on backbone at 300. Most modern non-mag calibers will stay between 3.5 high of line of sight to 3.5 below line of sight out to 245-275 yds. If they are over 300, I get closer. Often I read posts about how to have reliable hits and reliable humane death for game. Getting closer is a sure way to improve these things.

Getting close is not a sure thing for anything, most times it creates a shot during a flight or fight situation making for a cluster!!

 

[Deleted member 112174]

BignGreen, I see lots of obsessing here about which components work for this range or that range. I said, get closer if these cause concern for the components you are using. If you are going hunting, be a hunter not just a shooter. Getting closer can cause problems, but not "most times". That is hunting, working to get a good quality shot without spooking the game. Shooting at a bench does not assure that you can do the same thing in the field. I actually mispoke, there is no way to remove all the variables. But there is a way to remove many of them, is to get closer. If you are really BignGreen, you can probably
make like a tree and get closer.

 

[lancetkenyon]

FFP for every rifle I own. From .22LR squirrel guns (SWFA SS 3-15×42) to my AR (Premier Heritage Light Tactical 3-15×50), to all my big game rifles. I will take accurate wind holds and holdovers at any mag all day long. I dial elevation 98% of the time, but always hold for wind.

 

[bigngreen]

BignGreen, I see lots of obsessing here about which components work for this range or that range. I said, get closer if these cause concern for the components you are using. If you are going hunting, be a hunter not just a shooter. Getting closer can cause problems, but not "most times". That is hunting, working to get a good quality shot without spooking the game. Shooting at a bench does not assure that you can do the same thing in the field. I actually mispoke, there is no way to remove all the variables. But there is a way to remove many of them, is to get closer. If you are really BignGreen, you can probably
make like a tree and get closer.

You realize your on a Long Range Hunting forum right, most of use do a lot more shooting in the field than benches too, I have zero issues getting close but honestly I don't need to so why get into a range where I'm going to be compromising something when I can take my time, position my self for thee absolute best clean shot and quickly take an animal with not mess or fuss and absolutely easiest on the game I'm taking, means more work for me but cleanly taking game is well worth it IMO!

 

[sp6x6]

My kid related how his last elk ,wondering why shooting over him by feet.Then noticed not on right power for holds,in his sfp.Hes put in lot time on my ffp scopes.

 

[Barrelnut]

Long range shots I've been involved in have offered plenty of time to gather distance/wind and then dial. I like SFP and tend to use the SFP scope at the lowest power, I feel comfortable with, to maximise the field of view to help spot the shot, observe the animals reaction, and get back on target quickly if it moves. This scenario tends to work well with a SFP scope.

I also prefer dialing wind over hold offs. Wind tends to have a rhythm, breathe and repeat. I like to get my wind readings on one of those breaths, dial the wind, and wait for it to repeat, and squeeze the trigger at that point. I just get more accuracy that way.

 

[IHFarmer07]

For hunting.....ffp. If I was a BR/ELR/ULR shooter sfp.

I have hunted and shot with sfp scopes pretty well all my life and until I got here and other forums I didn't know much anything about ffp. With a ffp if I had a cheat sheet with ranges, dial ups and I was hunting, I would want something that I can throw the rifle up, accurately hold off in a reticle in a HURRY. Sometimes there's no time for adjusting things and having a ffp is one less thing to worry about to adjust anything. I usually keep my scopes around 5-7 ALL THE TIME. I still have a bunch of sfp but my every day and precision rifles wear FFP. If I had the money to change they would all be FFP. Also FFP scopes are more readily available now than 10-15 yrs ago. Almost all rifle scope manufacturers(worth while) now make some sort of FFP scope.
If I can't see the cross hairs and I didn't have a illuminated scope, no shots will be taken. Each to their own......I like the simplicity of what the cross hair shows at ANY POWER coincides with the turrets.
KISS

 

[nksmfamjp]

. I usually keep my scopes around 5-7 ALL THE TIME.

How far are you shooting at that magnification?

 

[PredatorSlayer]

Man - I didn't realize that many people are using hold overs to hunt long range. My guns are all zeroed at 100 to avoid any material change in zero at high elevations, but I will spin my turret to zero for mpbr while I am out hunting. Usually MPBR is 300-350. So I am dialing for anything over that - I have always had time to dial. I guess if I felt so rushed I would have to use holdovers to get a shot off at something more than 350 yards away, I probably shouldnt take that shot - I am trying to think I can't remember ever being in a situation where I didn't have time to get set up, range, and dial the scope. Dialing is so much more precise at long range.

 

[Barrelnut]

Dialing is so much more precise at long range.

Exactly.

 

[lancetkenyon]

How far are you shooting at that magnification?

I know you weren't asking me, but I shot my pronghorn last year on 7X (in a 3-15x50) @ 450 yards. Shot a coyote a month ago on 7X with the same rifle @ 921.

 

[Tank308]

Two days ago. at the end of a long range class they let a handful of shooters try a mile shot. I got my atacr with the moar reticule on the line to help spot. At one mile they had a 3" orange circle on the target. I played with magnifications 20 to 35. Perfect overcast day. I could still see orange with the reticule centered. Not much but I could center with ease. It did not matter which mag number I was on. I do not understand the people that say it covers more of the target as power goes up. Target is growing with reticule. My friends NP-R1 reticule could see more orange on high power but about the same at 20 power. Sfp scopes are the ones that cover more or less of the target. (More at lower power) The sfp's that I have work great. But once I learned the ffp. That's all I buy. I also like to use my rifles Year around not just hunting. This is a lot like mil vs moa use what you are comfortable using.