Anyone Annealing Their Brass?

Harry Knutz said:
I just got an email from EP integrations, They are having a 4th of July sale, Their annealers are $249.00 instead of $268.00

IT says to use code word HAPPY4TH2022

Anyway, I have one of these and they are excellent for the money.
Click to expand...
Curious, how long have you had it and used it? Just concerned about just the 30 day guarantee, however it looks like a nice product for the price.
 
I've done a few hundred cases of different calibers, I haven't had it all that long,I'm definitely am not a high volume user, But I do obscure calibers that very few people shoot, Many with rims, That's why this annealer made the most sense to me, It does rimmed cartridges very well and you don't need to buy collets, Wheels or inserts. I used to use a bench source, But it doesn't really spin the cartridges very good. And it takes up too much space, And it uses more than one torch if you want to work the best. The EP was just the best fit for me, I considered a few different machines. If something were to break, It wouldn't be too hard to fix it, The guy who makes these actually has a video showing you how to make one yourself, The parts are not expensive and are not hard to find. I'm not too worried about it.
 
Thanks for all of the recommendations guys. After looking at a bunch of machines and methods I'm thinking about getting the EP Integrations 2.0 while they're on sale now.
Anyone else using this model and if so how do you like it.
Thanks again for all your help!
 
Harry Knutz said:
I've done a few hundred cases of different calibers, I haven't had it all that long,I'm definitely am not a high volume user, But I do obscure calibers that very few people shoot, Many with rims, That's why this annealer made the most sense to me, It does rimmed cartridges very well and you don't need to buy collets, Wheels or inserts. I used to use a bench source, But it doesn't really spin the cartridges very good. And it takes up too much space, And it uses more than one torch if you want to work the best. The EP was just the best fit for me, I considered a few different machines. If something were to break, It wouldn't be too hard to fix it, The guy who makes these actually has a video showing you how to make one yourself, The parts are not expensive and are not hard to find. I'm not too worried about it.
Click to expand...

I use all high-end brass, mostly Lapua or ADG. I never bothered annealing and just toss my cases as they age. But .... I did notice that the seating pressure required from case-to-case does vary a lot on some batches of brass after several reloads. As much as I'd like an AMP annealer I just can't justify the cost.

Based on your input, I just ordered one of the EO 2.0 units. It certainly looks easy enough to get consistent results at a reasonable cost.

How did you determine how long each piece of brass remained in the flame?
 
Varmint Hunter said:
I use all high-end brass, mostly Lapua or ADG. I never bothered annealing and just toss my cases as they age. But .... I did notice that the seating pressure required from case-to-case does vary a lot on some batches of brass after several reloads. As much as I'd like an AMP annealer I just can't justify the cost.

Based on your input, I just ordered one of the EO 2.0 units. It certainly looks easy enough to get consistent results at a reasonable cost.

How did you determine how long each piece of brass remained in the flame?
Click to expand...
Watch EP's videos, The best way to determine how long to leave them in the flame, Is to do your setup in the dark, You want the brass to drop just as it becomes orange. Once I get it setup, I mark down the digital setting for that particular case in my notes. Then you can start there the next time and fine tune it once again, As you may have the flame in a slightly different spot, So double check your setting each time.
 
Harry Knutz said:
Watch EP's videos, The best way to determine how long to leave them in the flame, Is to do your setup in the dark, You want the brass to drop just as it becomes orange. Once I get it setup, I mark down the digital setting for that particular case in my notes. Then you can start there the next time and fine tune it once again, As you may have the flame in a slightly different spot, So double check your setting each time.
Click to expand...

Sounds good - thanks for the feedback.

I guess I've got to run down to Home Depot and grab a few bottles of propane. Does anyone use MAP gas for flame annealing??
 
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I run the Annealeez. Just did a batch of 250 cases of 308. Not sure how long it took but it works great and once you have your flame set on your dummy case then you can let it rip. I run mine at a speed of 34%. Seem to give me very good consistent feel when seating a bullet. I started using the tempo lac stuff (not sure on the correct spelling) but after a little time running the unit and doing a couple of different brass brands; running at 34% just seem to be a good sweet spot for my unit and so now the green stuff stays in the closet. Just my 2 pennies.
 
I just received my EP Integrations 2.0 annealer today. Had it set up in 2 minutes. I watched the on-site videos and it looked easy. However, I found it a bit difficult to see just when the red glow begins. I was using .223 Lapua cases that were reloaded 12X. It's my first try so maybe it will be easier when I get use to the machine.

BTW - it works exactly like it shows, it's very easy to use and it takes no space in the reloading area. The guy includes EVERYTHING that you'll need except the tank of propane which cost $4.95 @ Home Depot.
 

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