Annealing? How do YOU do it? How often?

[just_jon]

Annealeez every firing.

 

[Hugnot]

I anneal every 5-6 firings depending on amount neck sizing needed to achieve neck tension of .002-.003 diameter. I turn necks. I use a cheap circular tip propane torch (whole works about $50). I stand brass in 1/2 inch water, heat for 30 seconds (dull red), then tip & hear them sizzle.

I check for brass neck spring back after sizing, if none, annealing has worked. If I had an electron microscope, real pricy, I would check out brass grain size. My concern would be over annealing with changes in brass mechanical properties. Incremental cold working of the brass decreases time needed to anneal. Precise neck/chamber fit that allows a nice slip fit of bullet into fired case and adequate neck tension.

Use of the Lee factory crimp die can help but good neck/chamber fit is needed.

A read on the salt bath method seems to indicate temperatures not to exceed 550 deg C as nitrate salts might explode & less temperatures having 5-8 seconds immersion no effective reduction of hardness & immersion of 20 seconds resulting in case body softening, including case head. I would be fearful of having a pot full of hot molten salts of whatever. Induction annealing seems like the best.

 

[selmerfan]

Never heard of it? Quick run down of how?

This was also me, so I was reading about salt bath annealing last night at 11:30 p.m. . Looks interesting. I already do a fair amount of bullet casting, so I've got a spare furnace sitting around. One wonderment I had about salt bath annealing is why it would be different in any significant way than simply using molten lead at 760 F. I use a thermometer in my lead pot and thermocouples in my molds to keep temps consistent and I know I can hold 750-775 F quite steadily. If I already have that equipment, what's the point in using the salt bath method? That way I don't booger up a furnace with a bunch of foreign salt in my nice clean lead.

 

[selmerfan]

Every firing in Salt Bath

So I wasn't familiar with this method at all. Spent some time reading about it last night. If I already have bullet casting equipment, including thermometers/thermocouples, is there an advantage to salt bath over using molten lead that is holding temp between 750-775 F?

 

[BrentM]

Made my own torch set up and anneal every time. Some day I'll make an induction annealer but for now mine works great.

 

[wldcat]

Ugly annealer on Amazon, I think it was $300 and it works great, use it every firing

 

[wldcat]

SOLD/EXPIRED - New Annealeez Gen 2

For sale is a new Gen 2 Annealeez. I purchased this in January 2021 and never used it. Comes with everything you would get if buying it new along with a large wheel kit. Paid $300 Asking $275 shipped OBO.

www.longrangehunting.com

Can get an annealeez from a member today!!

 

[Mikecr]

I've dip annealed with lead for decades, but a salt bath would be easier.
That's really the way to go.
It's universal, consistent, cheap, and pretty much impossible to screw up.

 

[SteveBurton]

SOLD/EXPIRED - New Annealeez Gen 2

For sale is a new Gen 2 Annealeez. I purchased this in January 2021 and never used it. Comes with everything you would get if buying it new along with a large wheel kit. Paid $300 Asking $275 shipped OBO.

www.longrangehunting.com

Can get an annealeez from a member today!!

Too late! I already picked it up.
I have been using my neighbors Annealeez and anneal after every firing. It has greatly improved my consistency. One day I'll get an AMP and run with the big dogs.

 

[Axl]

Sold my machine a few years ago after a lot of testing annealed vs. non-annealed. Never looked back.

 

[Pdyson]

Amp is the best and I considered replacing my flame annealer with one until I saw a video made by F-class Pro Erik Cortina. fir years he used a flame annealer and followed the old "heat the neck till it starts to glow red" method. He bought the amp but wanted to prove it was better before using it. So he made a batch of flame and AMP annealed brass and shot test groups at 1000 yards from his 284 shehane. Yes, the amp groups were smaller, but not by much. The difference was so small, I doubt it would be noticeable at ranges less than 500yds. After seeing that video, I figured the juice wasn't worth the squeeze. At least for my 3/4 to 1 MOA Rifles. I decided to skip the Amp, keep my flame annealer, and spend The money on better brass, bullets, and barrels.

 

[Rick Richard]

So I wasn't familiar with this method at all. Spent some time reading about it last night. If I already have bullet casting equipment, including thermometers/thermocouples, is there an advantage to salt bath over using molten lead that is holding temp between 750-775 F?

Don't know since I have never used molten lead.

 

[Barehandlineman11]

What makes amp worth the money is its speed and consistency. I use to the annealeze it works just not as well. Really easy to get inconsistency

Also if annealing didnt work. Amp wouldnt be sold out of 1500$ machines or other companies and also adg peterson lapua and others wouldnt come annealed

 

[vancewalker007]

I just finished annealing a batch of 100 .350 Rem Mag cases and wondered "How do others do this and with what method?" Growing up, dad considered annealing kind of voodoo-ish. All I remember him doing was either dipping case necks in molten lead or setting cases up in a metal cake pan, putting water in up to the level of the case shoulder, then heating the case necks until they just started to change color and tipping them over into the water. I never really messed with it much until I was necking LC Match 7.62 brass down to .260 Remington specs. Then I decided I should learn to anneal after turning the necks. I found some good advice from John Barsness that has served me well when annealing. He recommends chucking a socket extension into a drill, putting a deep well socket slightly larger than case diameter on to turn the cases at a moderate pace and do it in a dark room, like very dark, and use a propane torch. Start the case rotating, bring the flame in on the bottom side of the case neck that is sticking out from the socket and heat it until you just start to see the brass barely change color and then pull the torch back. The socket serves as a heat sink and protects the rest of the case from the heat. I know there are machines out there that do this automatically, but I can't justify the expense of such a machine for the relatively small amount of annealing I do. How often do you anneal your brass and how frequently?

Annealeez every firing after 2 initial firings from unfired state. The Annealeez so easy to use and very affordable. It's giving me the results I need.